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Old 10-05-2018, 09:09 PM   #46
rmckee84
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Granite, quartz, solid surface, glass any will work. No real need for L brackets, just cut the tile on the sides of the niche to where you want the shelf then set the piece of whatever you choose and set the next piece of tile above it. That will lock the shelf in
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Old 10-05-2018, 09:53 PM   #47
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Not sure I understand what you're trying to do, Tim, but if you want to put a glass shelf horizontally across a niche, why not simply set it into the tile on either side?

[Edit] I see I'm a little late with that advice, but I hadn't seen Ryan's post. Here's a photo of what I think we're recommending:

Name:  Niche 2.jpg
Views: 77
Size:  33.1 KB

One good source for niche ideas is our Alumni Photo Album forum. Lots of photos of different niches.
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Old 10-05-2018, 10:24 PM   #48
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Just remember to cut the supporting tile at a slant, about 1/16" is enough, so that the shelf tilts a little higher at the back. It needs to shed water just like any other horizontal surface in the shower.
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Old 10-06-2018, 03:24 PM   #49
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That was my first thought but a couple of things crossed my mind. The first was the visibility of the cut tile edge and/or niche material through the glass. Wasn't sure if that would look finished. Second was replacement if/when my wife breaks it! Seemed like a solution might be something similar to the little shelf brackets you sometimes see in cabinets where the shelf sits on top and is removable. Might be useful for cleaning as well?

Anyway, sounds like I'm drifting away from conventional and that usually means I'm in violation of Occam's razor!

Thanks for the reminder on the slope too!
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Old 10-06-2018, 04:26 PM   #50
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Tempered glass is hard to break from the middle. Since the ends would be embedded, shed have to really slam something on them. Like a hammer. If it were my shower, Id be concerned about trying to keep them clean. My water here is kind of acidic and has lots of dissolved solids making for eventual etching on horizontal glass.
A piece of countertop material for a niche could probably be found for next to nothing in the leftover bin from a backsplash at a local stone place.
You could also come up with something with the same tile youre using similar to these:
https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...0&postcount=76
For my taste 2 is crazy thick for a niche shelf. Youll come up with something. Personally, Id avoid buried brackets. Seems like too many opportunities down the road to have to dig em out.
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Old 10-06-2018, 06:50 PM   #51
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Tim, as I recall the shelf in my photo is tempered 3/8ths" glass and is not even supported across the back. With glass shelves I like to keep them a strong 1/16th" away from the back wall and I don't pay any attention to sloping them. They tend to drain just fine and I've not had a call for a broken one to date.

Don't recall ever putting one in a shower that would be subject to abuse from sub-adults of the species, though.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 10-06-2018, 08:44 PM   #52
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Thanks all. I'll start looking through the pics as suggested. I do like the idea of spacing the shelf off of the back slightly. Makes great sense and no downside I can imagine. I do like the glass but now I feel like there may be other options to consider. I appreciate it!

BTW, the Raimondi system is saving my butt. Found that tip among the posts.
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Old 10-07-2018, 01:25 AM   #53
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You could use a natural stone or a solid surface material like Corian.
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Old 12-13-2018, 01:40 PM   #54
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Ditra-Heat - Custom Pro Lite

So I've laid 6 x 36 plank tile on Ditra-Heat with Custom Pro Lite. I'm assuming I can just crank up the heat and grout this evening?!

In all seriousness; is 48hrs sufficient before grouting for this senario? I know Schluter has concerns about using modified on top of their mat but from conversations around the forum, it appears to be common practice. How much extra time should I allow before walking on or grouting such an install?
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Old 12-13-2018, 02:31 PM   #55
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48 hours is fine, assuming the temperature in the room has been kept normal.
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Old 12-13-2018, 05:51 PM   #56
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Thanks, Kman
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Old 12-13-2018, 06:13 PM   #57
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Sanded vs Unsanded

I set my joints about 1/16th on the 6 x 36 planks. Had it in my head to use unsanded Tec power grout in 927 Light Pewter. Turns out power grout is a sanded product instead of having a choice.

Specs show this good for 1/16th which seems unusual but anyone with experience using it in such an application? It's a very small room but I'm a particularly inept installer!

So I've run across some comments (specifically by CX) regarding Custom Products Fusion Pro. I'm accustomed to the pros here eschewing premixed products so I hadn't looked that direction at all. Would that be a better product in this type of application? In the near future I'll be grouting my shower with 1/8" joints. It looks like Fusion Pro might lend itself to fewer mold issues and be more stain resistant?
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Old 12-13-2018, 07:04 PM   #58
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The power grout is made for joints that size.

It's a fast-setting grout, so you have to work quickly. I would recommend wiping the floor with a damp sponge before you start applying grout.
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Old 12-13-2018, 09:03 PM   #59
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Tim, you might want to check out the Fusion Pro thread in the professional hangout section on here. Every so often, there is someone with Fusion Pro issues when the grout is used on a shower floor. I believe these case histories to be valid. But then there are others who swear by it and have not encountered problems.

Disclaimer: I am just a DIY person and have never used Fusion Pro but have decided to not use it after reading through that particular thread. I myself am a big epoxy grout fan, especially when it comes to showers.
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Old 12-13-2018, 09:37 PM   #60
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Thanks fellas.

Yep. Found that thread as well and just finished skimming through. Those experiences are so varied that there must be something different about how it's being used but no matter. It's steered me away. I may look at epoxy for the shower but for the moment, the rest of the bath floor is my issue. Just found it unusual that the TEC sanded product was listed for 1/16th joints whereas others stopped at 1/8th. But based on Kevin's comment; it's for real so I'll probably go that route.
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