Grab bar /folding bench attachment

[timsdl72]

Thanks Jim,

I'll look into that. Project is pretty small so cost isn't an issue but the convenience sounds good. I should check into the requirement for the USG membrane too. Hoping to stick that to the walls in the next few days.

[cx]

USG allows the use of modified or un-modified thinset mortar to attach their membrane to the shower wallboard. Depending upon what wallboard you elect to use, its manufacturer is more likely to want a modified mortar. That said, I've used Ditra Set, mixed with water, to attach both Kerdi and USG membranes to both CBU and drywall successfully.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[timsdl72]

Thanks CX,

I've used the JohnsManville GoBoard. It's a little tough to find but it appears they're good with either A118.1 or A118.4. So if I understand that correctly, either modified or unmodified since A118.4 basically has a lesser holding strength than A118.15? Sound right?

[cx]

Not at all sure why a fella'd wanna use something like that GoBoard for his shower walls if he intends to apply a direct bonded waterproofing membrane over it.

You certainly do not need nor want an A118.15 mortar to install any of the sheet membranes over any type of wallboard.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[timsdl72]

Well, there's a story there (as is common with us do-it-yourselfers). After installing it, I ran across some info that led me to believe it wasn't as waterproof as claimed. Thought about a layer of Redgard but since the USG shower kit came with the membrane, I decided to simply leave it and install the membrane.

I didn't find much info here about the GoBoard but if it's a product you have experience with and trust, I suppose I could waterproof it as recommended and tie the membrane in near the bottom and out over the shower base.

[cx]

I have zero experience with that product, Tim, but if you cover it properly with a direct bonded waterproofing membrane it should serve the purpose.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[timsdl72]

Summer nearly had me hiring the work done but now that I'm healed, back to it.
We ended up with a 12 x 24 tile for the shower walls, a cut and tumbled stone for the shower floor, and an 8x36 tile for the bath floor. Any thoughts on LFT mortar for the shower wall and bath floor? Shower wall is USG membrane and the bath floor is ditra-heat.

[rmckee84]

It really depends on what you have access to. I like laticrete Tri lite, ardex x5, customs prolite...there are a ton of options it really just depends on what you can get your hands on.

[timsdl72]

Had my local Ace Hardware special order versabond for the membrane and ditra-heat to subfloor. I just take it for granted that our local big boxes will have opted out of carrying anything I need. But it looks like my local HD stocks both the ProLite and standard Versabond LFT's. They also carry the Natural Stone and Large Tile Premium.

Anything make one better than the other for wall or floor applications? Hard for us DIYers to figure out what we should use with all the choices.

Since my floor is a smallish cut/tumbled stone, I'm curious if the Natural Stone and Large Tile would be a one size fits all solution of if that's cutting corners. I prefer using the best option for each situation even if that means multiple mortars.

[rmckee84]

If it was me, I'd just opt for the pro-lite for all of it. Versabond will work but I really dislike it.
Prolite is great on walls because it is a non sag. It also works fine on floors.

[timsdl72]

Works for me. My back may even appreciate that! Thanks!

[timsdl72]

Guess I should have anticipated this but I assumed a good blade would remedy any issues. Running a rigid R4020. I'm chipping the end of every cut. Even if I cut in a bit, then flip the piece around and cut from the other side, it chips though not as bad.

I'd love to address it but as I look at my job, there are probably less than a dozen cuts that might require a saw (or hand-held cutting wheel) at curb corners or lengthwise top and bottom rows to fit. Sooo, I'm up for a good score -n- snap option. Any suggestions that make sense for a home owner? Needs to handle at least a full 12" dimension as my walls are 12 x 24 tile. If it did 24" so I could catch the top and bottom rows, that wouldn't hurt my feelings!

[jadnashua]

Some of the possible reasons for the cut chipping other than the blade are:
- the tray is not perfectly aligned with the blade
- the blade wobbles (motor mount, bearing, or centering)
- the tile is bowed, and when you get near the end, it drops, squeezing the blade
- you are cutting too fast
- there's not enough water cooling
- the tile is stressed too much, and cutting relieves some stresses, and ends up cracking

Watch a tile, and see if there's any vertical movement when you get near the end. IF so, try to find something the right thickness you can put under it so it is fully supported along the cutline. It doesn't take much.

[timsdl72]

Thanks!
I see what you mean and I'll have to look at those for the cuts where the saw may be needed. But for the simple straight cuts, I picked up a cheap $20 snap cutter locally. It will handle the 12" which should be the majority of the cuts and is a whole lot faster.

[timsdl72]

Decided to ditch the provided shelf that came with the niche. It's a 2" thick piece of foam.

Tempered glass? Acrylic? Any thoughts or experience? Considering setting a couple stainless "L" brackets behind the tile each side to set the shelf on. Any brilliant ideas on a ready-made solution or a nice re-purposed idea?