Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-10-2018, 05:31 PM   #16
Mdsims
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 58
It's interior. I've scabbed studs before, and that does work well. I need to snap some lines tonight and determine the extent of how many studs need work. I was a bit tired when I noticed it..

The wall in question is on the right, worst part is by the foam board.

Matt
Attached Images
 
__________________
Matt
Mdsims is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2018, 02:07 PM   #17
Mdsims
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 58
Measured, measured, and measured yesterday, and drank some beers, and started some work.

Top plate to bottom plate, the wall is out of plumb 1/2" or so across the whole span. Top out. Left to right, there is a decent concave curve to the wall around where the original wall was furred for a 3" cast iron vent stack (which I removed and replaced with ABS). So I hung a few studs (end, center, end) from the top of the wall, plumbed each independently and tacked them in temporarily. Tonight I'll run a long straightedge left to right and make sure the new studs are in plane, and adjust as needed. Then I'll furr out the remaining studs to match the new wood (or sister more if possible, the wall is tight with plumbing) and hang my foam board.

Drywall went up today (the one thing I hired out). Screw inspection is tomorrow. Hoping for a nice long weekend of thinset and membrane!

Oh, and a pallet of marble arrived for me today, 1271# they claim.

PS: I'm not laying the 12x24 as pictured, that's cut stock to be used for trim and niche detailing, and anywhere I don't want many grout lines.
Attached Images
   
__________________
Matt
Mdsims is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2018, 10:28 AM   #18
Mdsims
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 58
We’re rockin and rollin now! Drywall is up and should be done by Wednesday or Thursday. Durock foam board is up. I need to frame out the bench and pony wall for the shower, but will do that once drywall is done. Then waterproof all the durock system into place.

New window is delayed. I’m on my 6th one and they are still coming out messed up with black marks between the panels on the provacy glass.
Attached Images
  
__________________
Matt
Mdsims is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2018, 01:25 PM   #19
Mdsims
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 58
Alright, progress is slow, but three weeks on the road for work has been the biggest impediment this month.

Nonetheless, drywall is wrapped up. My guy did a good job floating out smooth walls. I've had textured walls my whole life, wanted to try some change. I built a bench/knee wall, and wrapped it in Durock foam board. Turned out very rigid.
Attached Images
     
__________________
Matt
Mdsims is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2018, 01:54 PM   #20
Mdsims
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 58
Still traveling this week, but will hit the shower pan running this Friday and seal up all the membrane by the end of the weekend for a shower pan test on Monday/Tuesday.

I'm ready to pull the trigger on a tile saw....Majority of my tiling will be 4x12 3/8" thick marble and a few 12x24 marble sheets for trim. Floor will be a mix of 2" marble hex and some areas of porcelain hex.

Planning on buying...

1. DeWalt D24000 + stand (I was leaning toward a MK-101, but seeing all the good reviews here on the D24000 and the lighter weight, I was swayed, should I have been? I found a 2-job MK-101 locally for $400...)
2. MK-315 diamond marble blade (other suggestions before I commit?)
3. Alpha PVA polishing pad kit to hone out exposed cut edges
4. Still need to decide on a profile wheel to make up my own trim and niche edges, thinking 1/4 round or demi bullnose. Was also tempted to just knock off the corner on the saw and hone that out, mini bevel style.
__________________
Matt
Mdsims is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2018, 12:05 PM   #21
Mdsims
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 58
Niche layout options, $0.02 opinions please!

Order placed!

Regarding the niche, I'm trying to limit grout lines and tile joints here. Not out of necessity, just desire for a clean look. I have some 12"x24" stone I plan to use to accomplish much of the edging and interior pieces. However, the 24" stone isn't quite long enough to frame in the 22" niche (+border) in one run. I'm still undecided if I should continue the herringbone into the back of the niche, run some offset tile, hex, or use the large tiles to simple sheet the back with two pieces.

What do you all think of these two options? The grey line is the hidden edge of the niche body before it is built up with interior tile.
Attached Images
 
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Niche framing v1.0.pdf (3.4 KB, 21 views)
__________________
Matt
Mdsims is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2018, 11:31 AM   #22
Mdsims
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 58
Profile wheel suggestions please

I have a 10" tile saw (D24000), I was going to pick up a 6" profiling wheel to edge some marble tiles. But they also make 8 & 10" profile wheels ($$ and $$$, respectively). Any guidance from the pros one way or another?

My gut was the 6" wheel would do better on the direct drive saw (less torque).

I'll need to edge about 60LF of tile.
__________________
Matt

Last edited by Mdsims; 11-06-2018 at 11:37 AM.
Mdsims is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2018, 02:15 PM   #23
cx
Da Home Builder
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 86,547
I've successfully used a 6" profiling wheel on my D24000, Matt, and wouldn't be inclined to spend extra dinero on a bigger wheel.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2018, 12:14 AM   #24
Mdsims
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 58
Hot question!!

My durock shower kit did not come with a test plug. Neither my 2 or 3 test plugs fit!

How are people plugging this drain for their shower pan tests?!

All opinions welcome, my inspection is tomorrow...
__________________
Matt
Mdsims is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2018, 09:35 AM   #25
cx
Da Home Builder
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 86,547
You don't want to plug the drain, Matt, you want to plug the drain riser pipe. A 2" inflatable plug is what you want, with an extension hose to allow for easier placement and inflation.

Name:  plumbers balloon.jpg
Views: 99
Size:  30.4 KB
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2018, 11:30 AM   #26
Mdsims
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 58
Thanks CX. The inflatable I had from other jobs was the longer 9 water or air type and wasnt holding. Thats when I tried my test plugs. I waited until the real plumbing store opened and picked up the correct piece, bright and early this morning. Ball style like pictured.

All is well. Inspection this afternoon and Ill let the pan hold water until tomorrow morning to be sure. I topped it off, 3+ of water.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Matt
Mdsims is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2018, 11:00 AM   #27
Mdsims
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 58
Pan is nice and tight, no leaks after 30ish hours at almost 4" deep. Inspection passed and now I can tile. Quick trip down to Mexico City this week is cramping my style, but I should be hanging tile this weekend.

I sure wish we could post moving pictures (video), this pan flushes a like a toilet!
__________________
Matt

Last edited by Mdsims; 11-12-2018 at 11:47 AM.
Mdsims is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2018, 11:44 AM   #28
Mdsims
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 58
Thinset recommendations

I used VersaBond for all the Durock membrane, band and joints. Worked well for me.

Now I'll begin setting my wall tile: 4"x12" marble, 3/8" thick. I have three questions:

1. What would you all recommend for joint size? I had thought 1/16" would look nice, but the company I bought the stone from said most people install this at 1/8". It's a herringbone pattern and I bought enough extra to set aside tiles that deviate in size.

2. What white thinset would be advised for this stone? I've read much about light marble being picky or having issues with heavily modified mortars.

3. Would a leveling system be useful on 4x12? I've set much 3x6 subway before, but that's about it. I'm picky and precise, but if a leveling system can help keep me on track for that last 5%, I'll pick up one. Thoughts from pros?
__________________
Matt

Last edited by Mdsims; 11-12-2018 at 11:51 AM.
Mdsims is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2018, 07:38 PM   #29
rmckee84
Moderator
 
rmckee84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 2,802
1. I would go an 1/8" the give myself a little wiggle room
2. What do you have access to brandwise?
3. It may help fine tune, but I wouldn't say its needed on what you have
__________________
Jack of most trades, master of none...
Ryan McKee
McKee Construction & Custom Tile
rmckee84 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2018, 08:10 PM   #30
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 12,586
Industry guidance on minimum grout spacing is 3x the min/max of the tile involved. To get to 1/16", the tile need to be nearly perfect. Some stone is ground to very tight tolerances, some is not. Your best bet is often the manufacturer that knows that standard and makes a recommendation. You might be able to go smaller, but if they say 1/8", they probably know something. The tile needs to be both very precise in both size and shape. Thickness also comes into play as well. They aren't always similar thickness, and a bigger grout joint can help with that as well (as can a deeper thinset layer, but that makes it harder to keep everything in plane).
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Corners of Mud Set 1940s Tile Wall Broke Off mbrierst Tile Forum/Advice Board 10 03-12-2018 06:45 AM
1940s bungalow bath tub surround advice please Twiggynurse Tile Forum/Advice Board 10 04-10-2017 07:21 PM
Bathroom Drywall Shimmed 1/2 inch Away From Studs FlipMode Tile Forum/Advice Board 4 07-22-2015 12:54 PM
Bathroom remodel down to the studs and joists ChrisO Tile Forum/Advice Board 9 09-13-2009 09:19 AM
Hanging durock on 1940s construction JBlaine Tile Forum/Advice Board 9 12-29-2002 11:41 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:23 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC