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Old 10-03-2018, 08:10 PM   #16
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Sounds like you may need a combination of the techniques...cbu to provide the height for the mudcap's leg, and the combing out thinset to raise the field tiles. Raising all of the field tile in the same step with a LFT mortar could be done, but it's a lot harder to accomplish with a nice flat end result.

Do the colors match? Even from tile from the same place and time, if they're in different batches, the colors can vary (usually slightly).
Jim DeBruycker
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Old 10-03-2018, 10:16 PM   #17
Raymond S
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It would be a lot simpler to get some mudcaps from dal-tile that go with your field tile.
Using the thicker mudcaps will work, but it will require quite a bit of finagling and it may not be worth it you would need to stop the cbu and kerdi at the edge of the field tiles and either use a tiny strip of cbu behind the mudcaps ( difficult) or build up behind them with a mortar that can go that thick (tricky and messy).
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Old 10-04-2018, 08:09 AM   #18
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What if I have the bathroom built the old way, mud floated, wth hydroban or redguard applied over the surface of the mud instead of doing kerdi? This style is the bathroom design I'm going for with mudcap trimming all walls and covering tub/shower arch opening on both sides. would the difference in tile thickness be doable in that application?

@jadnashua, yes all the trim matches in color shade.

@Raymond It was $400 less for the old trim compared to purchasing modern daltile bullnose, I'm hoping I don't end up losing the savings in cost of prep.
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Old 10-04-2018, 06:33 PM   #19
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I don't see mud walls changing anything. Depending on what tile saw you have, you probably could make a jig to thin the BN down to 1/4.

I like Raymond's idea of getting new BN.

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Old 10-04-2018, 08:28 PM   #20
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@Davy: your jig idea is brilliant. That's what I'll do. I haven't gotten a tile saw yet, any recommendations on ones that I could do the jig idea with?
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