My 3 Year Bathroom Remodel

[ss3964spd]

If two BN's, placed side by side, are wider than the end of that wall you could perhaps use two side by side, with a joint down the center. Might have to rip a little off each one to get them the same width.

Not a great photo but it's exactly that; 2 BN's, ripped to width, on the end of a wall.

[cx]

Here's a traffic corner into a shower with mitered tiles, Benjaminn. The white tiles were Glazed Wall Tiles, 'bout as fragile a tile as you'll run into, and I saw that shower again when it was about five years old and it looked fine.



I wouldn't hesitate to miter the tiles for your corners there.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[jeffnc]

If you're not going to miter and not going to use a profile and you're not going to finish the edges yourself, then putting trim tiles back to back with a grout line down the middle is the only other way I know, as shown above.

Mitering them at a corner is fine - the grout protects it when filled in correctly (all grout should be fully packed into the joint). The main reason I don't do this by default is that perfection with tile just isn't possible. It's very difficult to get a perfectly cut, perfectly lined up mitered joint running from floor to ceiling. And it's hard to get a grout joint filled right to the top, because when cleaning it tends to come out a bit shallow there because of the exposed angle. Remember if you're mitering both corners, then you have no margin for error on either side if you want a perfectly even grout joint going all the way up. Needless to say the closer the grout color is to the tile color, the less you'll notice any imperfections. But a premanufactured profile does create a perfect corner.

[tillytiles]

I'll try some mitering practice with a grinder see how it turns out. The only thing with mitering is that I will have to "bump" out the vertical shower tiles out a bit where they meet the half wall tiles and not carry the jolly metal edge all the way to the floor, but stop where the half wall begins. I'd have to think how that particular detail will work - the area where the metal meets the top of the miter.

I did just come across these guys - they can custom make the exact tile I was wondering about to any size you want, but for like $30+ per tile and a 10 week wait time for custom size, which means Mrs. Benjaminn might murder me by the time they arrive.

https://shop.claysquared.com/double-...tile-p990.aspx

[jeffnc]

You might also find a local countertop place that might finish the tile edges for you.

Using an angle grinder to miter tiles is swimming upstream, and that's putting it mildly.

[tillytiles]

The table on my little home cheapo ridgid wet saw does tilt to 45, though the way the whole thing is held up by a wobbly piece of plastic might not produce much better results. Will try various ways.

[tillytiles]

Can you guys help me with this transition? I need to go from vertical tile full wall tub surround to horizontal half wall rest of bathroom surround and tub apron.

These are my options as I see it - maybe you can suggest something different?

1 - finish vertical tile with tub edge, leaving 2” space between window casing. Fill that space with 2” horizontals half way up. .
2 - continue with another 2inch vertical up to the window casing and all the way down, breaking up the horizontal corner between apron and wall.
3 - continue vertical up to window casing, but stop at tub ledge. Rest is horizontal.
4 - like #2, but make the apron vertical like the tub surround.

[jeffnc]

The last one is really the only one that makes any sense to me. But I think you might also want a transition between the tiles themselves, such as Schluter Schiene.

[tillytiles]

Searching the forum I get a lot of conflicting info regarding priming over premixed joint compound on new walls or priming bare drywall at all.

I have a level 5 finish on all the dry area walls done with premixed joint compound since I wasn’t planning on tiling those walls in the past. Now I’m tiling those walls half way up. Do y’all recommend priming or is tile installed directly over premixed joint compound?

Ps - bump regarding my previous post! I appreciate all the input!

[ss3964spd]

I'm, with Jeff, the 4th option with a transition.

I'd prime the drywall compound. Doing so will decrease the amount of moisture that gets pulled out of the mortar.

[tillytiles]

Thank you Jeff and Dan!

[tillytiles]

Just an observation...
I accidentally scratched on of my wall tiles and needed to remove it from the wedi and replace.

no matter the care, a well-adhered tile removed from a foam board pretty much destroys the board because the adhesion between the tile and the board is much stronger than the foam itself.

Luckily, I had open access from the attic to be able to repair the damage from the back with a wedi patch/wedi sealer and some new blocking to reinforce everything.

For this reason, I don't think I'd ever use a foam shower pan. Drop something accidentally and your waterproofing is completely compromised.

[tillytiles]

When tiling in around a vanity top on a wall that has tile from floor to half-way up, do you tile such that the vanity top edge will be flush with the tile all around or do you tile such that there is like a "rabbet" in the tile for the vanity top to slide into and thus creating a backsplash type effect.

[cx]

Dealer's choice. I would choose plan B every time, given the option.

[tillytiles]

Thanks, CX. Yes, I have full choice since one of the walls isn’t dry-walled yet so I can bump it out as needed. Just to clarify, this is for the sides of the vanity where the tile below the top will be visible.

I foresee some vanity back and forth sliding in my future lo to get this just right.