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Unread 07-22-2002, 08:40 AM   #1
Howie
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I am replacing my bathroom tile floor. There was a crack running through about 3 feet of tile. I removed those tiles and discovered the crack was above a 1/4" gap in the plywood (1/2" plywood above the 3/4" subfloor) running parallel to the joists. Anyway, we want to add radiant, which is the reason for my question.

I can 1) use a product from Wirsbo to replace the 1/2" plywood - it has radiant tubes running through it - and then top that with 1/4 cement board or 2) put radiant tubes into a new mud floor. The question is, what is the minimum thickness of the mud floor?

If I do (1), the floor thickness will increase by 1/4" - not very significant. I'm hoping that if I do (2), I won't have to increase the floor thickness by more than 1/2" - that would be a 1" mud floor with 1/2" tubes embedded in the mud.

Also, can mud be a DIY project?

Any words of wisdom?

Thanks,

Howie
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Unread 07-22-2002, 08:52 AM   #2
Cami A
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For you Texans, the Wirsbo Quik-trak is similar to the Warmboard system...

Howie, is this radiant H20 heat part of a larger system? Just wondering if the electric mats would work for you to help keep your subfloor thickness down.

Someone with actual advice will be along shortly, Howie.
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Unread 07-22-2002, 09:08 AM   #3
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This will be part of a larger hydronic system, mostly in the basement and first level. Just the bathrooms, the first of which we're dealing with now, on the second level.
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Unread 07-22-2002, 02:48 PM   #4
tileguytodd
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With 1/2 Tubing running throughout,I would want a 1" Mudbed personally.Lets see what john thinks!!

Cable heating would keep your flooring down to a minimul ,but then again,its independant of you hydro sys and prob not as cost effective in the long run.
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Unread 07-22-2002, 04:26 PM   #5
John Bridge
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Let's see what John thinks? John lives in Houston (but it's a DAMP heat)

Hi Howie, Welcome.

There are some guys here who know something about this, and they will be along. I think you will want to put the cement board under the heat pads, though. Otherwise there will be no way to attach it to the sub floor with nails or screws.

We might need some sort of mortar product here. Hang tight.

[Edited by John Bridge on 07-22-2002 at 07:28 PM]
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Unread 07-22-2002, 04:50 PM   #6
Bud Cline
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I'm no help here. I've only done this using SLC over cable.
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Unread 07-22-2002, 05:15 PM   #7
Bri
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Hi
I've put Ditra right over the board and tubes without a problem(does it have the foil on the surface?)...the one I did had the foil, so I used an expensive thin set to set the Ditra...that was almost 2 years ago..no one has yelled at me yet with a problem.(the manufacturer said to put the tile directly on the board)...I didn't like that idea so I used the Ditra...seemed like a good idea.
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Unread 07-22-2002, 05:40 PM   #8
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First let me say, this is a great!!! forum. I can't believe how active it is, and how helpful compared to some other forums in which I've participated.

I haven't seen the Wirsbo panels first hand. I'm looking into another method which involves crafting panels with 3/4 plywood and a router - that definitely has aluminum on top. I think the wirsbo panels have the tubes exposed from above, so unless the Ditra is quite rigid, I'd be concerned about the area over the tubes. The mud would act as a storage and even heat distribution component for the radiant. What is the Ditra made from?

I just found some great radiant manuals and brochures on the Weil-McLain website at http://206.231.19.173/FTP/Alumipex_Manuals/index.htm. One of their manuals states using a minimum 3/4" mud above the tubes for a total of 1 1/4" inches of mud. I'm still interested to hear what you have to say though.

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Unread 07-22-2002, 07:26 PM   #9
John Bridge
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Howie,

That link apparently isn't working.

You will need to "float" some sort of mortar over the tubes to make everything flat. The Ditra would then be applied to that mortar with thin set.

Find Ditra on the Schluter site: http://www.schluter.com
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Unread 07-22-2002, 07:47 PM   #10
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Here's a working link for the manuals...

http://www.weil-mclain.com/FTP/Alumi...uals/index.htm

The radiant index is at...

http://www.weil-mclain.com/radiant/radiantindex.htm

Thanks for the pointer to the Ditra site. I'll check it out.

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Unread 07-22-2002, 11:30 PM   #11
Bri
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Hi
Since the tubing is recessed into the board, you should be able to go right on top of it with the Ditra...not sure what floating cement over the tubes first would do...or have I missed something here?
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Unread 07-23-2002, 06:04 AM   #12
John Bridge
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You haven't missed anything, Bri. I've just just reaffirmed my ignorance when it comes to heated floors.
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Unread 07-23-2002, 06:43 AM   #13
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OK, how does this sound for a substrate (from the bottom up). Doubled 2x9 on 16" centers, 3/4" plywood, 1/2" x 8" plywood strips layed with 1/2" gaps for tubing and turn-arounds, 1/4" cement board for heat distribution and rigidity over the gaps, and Ditra (how thick is this?). This adds 1/4" (plus the Ditra) to the existing floor height... not enough to worry about.

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Unread 07-23-2002, 06:55 AM   #14
tileguytodd
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I am with Bud on this one. SLC Over cable only.So i am out of this one.(but always willing to learn)
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Unread 07-23-2002, 03:44 PM   #15
John Bridge
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Where are you, Bri? Where are you, Flatfloor?

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