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Old 05-12-2019, 08:02 AM   #31
DragonQueen
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So approximately how thick from the 3/4 t&g would these layers be, thinset, ditra, thinset and 10mm tile? 3/4 of an inch? 1inch? Just trying to see how much of a raise and if I can deal with or scrap the whole thing.
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:55 AM   #32
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10mm is little more than 3/8”; Ditra is 1/8”; figure 3/16” thinset all total, come up to around 3/4” in addition to the plywood.

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So approximately how thick from the 3/4 t&g
Did you mean the 3/4 plywood over the T&G?
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Old 05-12-2019, 09:27 PM   #33
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On top of the t&g. Thanks
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Old 05-12-2019, 09:34 PM   #34
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I'm confused, too, Carie. You have sawn boards as your first layer of subflooring. That may be T&G material, but we don't know that. Then you have installed nominal 3/4" plywood over that sawn board subfloor, yes? The plywood does not need to be T&G in that application, but it can be if you want.

Now, you are talking about installing your Ditra and tile over the plywood, yes?
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Old 05-13-2019, 06:15 AM   #35
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Yes, sawn boards, 3/4 t & G, ditra, tile. The sawn1x4 are not t&g you can see them from the basement. To many spots that you can see slivers of other stuff. We had the carpet up in one of the other rooms years ago. Thought I needed t&g for the 2ng layer cause the original subfloor is the diagonal sawn boards?
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Old 05-13-2019, 06:26 AM   #36
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So I can do, sawn 1x4, 3/4 ply bc face or better screwed to sawn boards, ditra modified thinset to ply, tile to ditra unmodified thinset?
And the modified thinset needs to meet the.
. 11 standard
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:00 AM   #37
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You're counting on the board subfloor to support the edges of the second plywood layer. If you can get the T&G plywood in there, that's fine, but you'll find that to be another problem.

You must orient the plywood with the face grain perpendicular to the joists and you're gonna need to pre-drill all the screw holes in the plywood before installation to prevent screw jacking.

See my warranty information below.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:01 AM   #38
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OK hubby can handle that.
So back to the portion of shower wall next to toilet, drawing on page 2. Anyone have opinions or improvements on that wall?
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Old 05-15-2019, 10:43 AM   #39
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OK so how about this change, not going for curbless necessarily, as minimal as possible curb will work. On the end wall next to the toilet, using a narrow glass pane for the corner in the section of the window. Seal it to the wall next to the window? Or have the c channel go in a u shape on the top and sides instead of an L shape on the bottom and interior wall side?
Not sure where on the drain offset or centered, if I can get 6x6 tiles I like the spot drain will go in.
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:59 AM   #40
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I feel like the 18" opening to the shower is really narrow, Carie. The minimum may vary by location but I think I read somewhere that 22" is minimum in my area. A moot point if you're not having it inspected, but even if not 18" is pretty tight.
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:25 AM   #41
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Dan is correct; 22 shower opening is minimum allowed by code.
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Old 05-16-2019, 09:17 AM   #42
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I've built a number of doorless, curbless showers with openings less than 24 inches, Carie, but even I'd balk at an 18-inch opening. That's getting a bit tight for even medium-large persons.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 05-16-2019, 06:17 PM   #43
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OK that is fixable, anything on the rest?
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Old 05-17-2019, 01:22 PM   #44
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So how bout this one? The entry is a 22" min around here also thanks. However that doesn't leave room for any kind of corner though unless anyone has any ideas?
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Old 05-19-2019, 05:58 PM   #45
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So hubby read thru what I had, he does want to bring the toilet to code. So we now have this floor plan option. I still don't want a door on the shower even though he has one there. He does have the adjoining hallway and closet on this drawing.
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