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Old 05-05-2019, 08:08 AM   #16
PC7060
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You could recess just in the area of the shower if the curb-less is critical. For a second level bath, I’ve found a 4” curb was the best option for me Much smaller than the stairs so it doesn't impact accessibility.

I’ve got 7/8” delta between one of my bathrooms due to the second layer of 5/8” plywood and tile but the tile threshold masks it very well. I’ve also found that the old diagonal subfloor board are around 7/8” thick so going with 3/4” ply will reduce that slightly.

I’m surprised your floor isn’t bouncy as is; my house certainly was until I doubled up every joist. The original floor on my 1928 house is full size 2x8 at 16” spacing but were over-spanned at 13.5’. The overspanned joist combined with the fact the hardwood is laid directly on the joists (no subfloor planking) made for a bouncy squeaky floor.

Last edited by PC7060; 05-05-2019 at 08:28 AM.
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Old 05-05-2019, 08:13 AM   #17
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Here is the existing, the tub is an old clawfoot. Toilet, Door and window are existing. Hope this helps my explanation
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Old 05-05-2019, 08:38 AM   #18
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Whew, that terlet really is crowded in there. I try a design with short pony walls around the tub with glass on top and loose the angled kicker.
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Old 05-05-2019, 08:47 AM   #19
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I went though is lot of these same issue on my bath to shower conversion.

I posted a link to where the space planning discussions started. You’ll see my plans changed a lot from initial concept to executed plan. You may want to consider moving things around so you can avoid having the window in the shower.

https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...83#post1279083
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Old 05-05-2019, 10:40 AM   #20
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Carie - Just to give you an idea of design options, I modeled up an alternate configuration that similar to your design but preserve window view so the bathroom is nice and bright and gives you a semi-private toilet area.

The curbed shower has a glass door which pivots toward the window. I moved the wet wall adjacent to the vanity to keep the water from directly hitting the shower door which also keep all the water lines together and give you more front to back room when showering.

Oh crap, I think I hear Mrs. PC! I'd better get back to my kitchen demolition work.

Design work is so much more interesting than tearing out old plaster.

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Old 05-05-2019, 11:27 AM   #21
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Unfortunately that is what we may end up with, but with a 3x3 pretty sure I will end up with premod box from off the shelf. I REALLY don't want a glass door, which is why I am looking at a longer shower. I start with what I would ideally like and compromise till it is reasonably doable. I will keep at the longer shower till it is more of a pain than I want to deal with. Thank you for the prints PC that is nifty. Pencil is so much easier for me, never could get those programs to do what I want.
Side thought there is a 3x3 entry to the bathroom, "the hall", my husband was looking at making it part of the bathroom in the remodel. We dropped the idea since it didn't make any sense at the time and it just occurred to me use that section as a ramp to raise the entry wo a big lip?
I like the angled section on the shower drawing for several reasons, a smaller opening to retain a little heat, you can put hooks for robes an they won't get wet. They bathroom is small enough that when anyone takes a shower it heats up, there is also a in wall heater, that is movable.
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Old 05-05-2019, 11:39 AM   #22
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30 inches wall to wall is the bare terlit space minimum in Texas
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Old 05-05-2019, 12:14 PM   #23
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Existing structure, one of the main reasons I don't want to move it. 2 inches from the window to the toilet is as far as I want to go that direction that will leave 25-26 inches. About the same amount of room on both sides.
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Old 05-05-2019, 08:26 PM   #24
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So I figured maybe putting some pic in that I wanted to incorporate portions of. I like the curved block wall, but don't want an entire wall of. So the angled wall instead. Also the small doors as a possibility. Yes I don't know all the measurements, but some I can guess.
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Old 05-06-2019, 12:24 PM   #25
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Carie, I didn't go through every post thoroughly but you may want to look into some of the Wedi foam shower pans that create a curbless shower without cutting into the floor joists.

It looks like they have more products on the market then when I used one of these and maybe there's something in there that will work for you.

https://www.wedi.de/en/products/buil...level-showers/
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:31 AM   #26
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So I need to get the wall between shower and toilet First to see if I can incorporate the window and maximize the space for the toilet. So same drawing 2 different views have a halfwall go to the bottom of the window, 46", the outside edge of the wall an inch on the toilet side of the window and the rest inside the shower space. some sort of non clear glass panel on the edge of the window, it would be off center on the wall, a foot or 2 wide and most likely to the top of the outside window or however tall the wall will be. How would you seal the glass pane to the tile on the wall? the membrane would wrap around the top of the wall under the tile, so it would note be the same process as the sealing the outside window. Thoughts?
The Toilet will not be up to code unless it is moved, not an option in my head. Sorry guys
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Old 05-11-2019, 05:33 AM   #27
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All right so a recessed subfloor won't work because the joists are 24"oc. So if we put a pony wall under the joist affecting the bathroom and the longest span was 6'. On top of the 1x4 subfloor, would a 3/4 t&g plywood of the correct face grad be sufficient or would I still need a 1/2 on top of that? Under the shower as well correct?
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Old 05-11-2019, 08:01 AM   #28
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I would be comfortable with nominal 3/4" plywood over your board subflooring in that application, Carie. Plus your chosen tiling substrate, of course, and presuming that your board subfloor is in good condition and well fastened. You'll not find an industry accepted method reflecting that, though, but they can't publish every possible subflooring combination that might work.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 05-11-2019, 10:06 AM   #29
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That would need to go under the shower pan as well correct, or could I use 1/2? Or does it need an underlayment if the subfloor is flat and level?
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Old 05-11-2019, 11:29 AM   #30
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It's all gonna be structural subfloor, Carie. With your joist spacing, I'd want to use the nominal 3/4" material for the second layer everywhere. Up to you.
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