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Old 04-28-2019, 04:18 PM   #46
smifwal
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I was thinking a 1x the length of the vanity or just shy. Attach it on both sides, then you can attach it in the middle and then add your fasteners everywhere else you need them. also pick yourself up a a 6 foot while you are at the Depot, it will fit in you closet no problem
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Old 04-28-2019, 09:34 PM   #47
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Yeah I got you. I know what you're getting at with the wood, but I'm still going to try MDF for the flat and true vs the wood I know I can get the local big box stores. The only thing I'm concerned with is will the kerdi fix adhere to the primed MDF? It adheres to most everything so far as I can tell though.

Buy a 6 foot level eh? I'll consider it, but I have a perfectly good 5 foot and 4 foot level.

If you look a page and 20 messages earlier in this thread you'll see what happened to me in my closet a bit over a week ago while looking for something.
The reason I fell and hurt my knee was because the closet is over filled with stuff. My attempt to step over the stuff in said closet landed me at the ER
with a grapefruit for a knee. Luckily it was only a mild sprain but when I say my closet is stuffed I'm not kidding.
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Old 04-29-2019, 03:33 PM   #48
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I got the wood. 1x2 primed pine I think. It's straight and flat and some screws to hold everything.

I'm going to have to mount it in sections though. *see picture*

There is not enough room for one or even two long pieces with those drawer
rails in the way plus two cabinet joins with staples in them and the original
broken off center support. They are raised so will throw the wood off if I
put it over them.

I also splurged on a 6-foot Johnson level. $70 later...

Any tips for adding the wood and making it work right with the kerdiboard?
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Old 04-29-2019, 04:17 PM   #49
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silly me, I didn't know you had drawers. I would set your fancy new level on the top and see where your bow starts and stops and just add wood in between just as if it was end to end using your level as a guide. If you bow starts and end past the drawer guide you can notch around them. As for the kerdi fix I have no experience with it myself. maybe someone else will chime in on that. If that isn't going to work I see on here a lot of love for PL when it comes to adhering all things construction
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Old 04-29-2019, 04:45 PM   #50
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The bow is from right edge of the left drawer, to left edge of the right drawer.
*Say that 10 times fast* Essentially the whole middle.

I took the old middle block out it was broken off when the original builders installed the sink.

The whole darn thing is bowed.
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Old 05-23-2019, 12:52 PM   #51
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I had the valves moved behind the vanity now I can tile where ever I need to.
I will cover that hole and I'm done.

I decided to ignore the bow in the cabinet front edge since the other three sides are flat.
I see no issue with one side not attached if the others are secure. I'm tired of goofing with attempts to shim or whatever. It's just not working. I sure wish they made some type of anchor for kerdiboard to help with such things.

I tried to scribe the kerdiboard to the wall and I think I cut it straight enough using a
jigsaw with a PVC blade. It was as thin as a sliver near the end I stopped.

I found a new issue while fitting it. I did not make the cut edge square.
It has a hump in the middle of the cut edge. I tried to shave it off but ended up
making a 1/16" thick chunk instead that I'll need to use kerdifix to replace.

Any tips for shaving the edge of kerdiboard? The hump is maybe 6" long and is pushing
the kerdiboard 1/8" from the wall. Though the entire edge is equally not square.

I cannot cut this anymore or I will start having insufficient overhang on the front or it would
be sharply unequal on each side. I have only 1 inch of overhang now.

I snapped two photos of the cut edge and the second one has my square across it.


What if I just forget about the gap and just attached the kerdiboard to the cabinet squaring
the front and sides with 1 inch of overhang equally? Fill in the gap at the wall with kerdifix,
some other silain based adhesive, or just thinset? I will use kerdiband at the wall transition.
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:08 PM   #52
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You got a belt sander in that closet of yours?
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:46 PM   #53
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I have a palm sander, but not a belt sander.

Sanding though on a piece of foam board?
Won't it just melt?

I just purchased a new dewalt drill driver for $100 on Amazon.
Came with 2 batteries. I needed to replace one with a nicad battery.

My closet is bursting with tools.

OK got a recommendation of an <$150 belt sander?
Prefer Amazon since I have a CC.

What grit paper?
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Old 05-23-2019, 08:32 PM   #54
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I am not 100% sure about the melting. I have used the belt sander on some foam niches and it worked great. I am using foam on the shower I am working on now but the belt sander is at my flip house. I need to run over there to get some mud for the pan. I will grab the belt sander and see what happens and let you know.
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Old 05-23-2019, 08:48 PM   #55
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I know Kerdiboard is suppposed to be real stable stuff but the friction might just burn it.

Unless I have real fine speed control. I've never used a belt sander before either so being green with a tool may make my job worse learning as I use it.
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Old 05-23-2019, 09:08 PM   #56
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My uncle says things can go terribly wrong with a belt sander 😯. How about a brand spanking new retractable razor blade. Maybe you can filet it. Those things a dirt cheap and if it doesn't work you can use it for something else
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Old 05-23-2019, 09:22 PM   #57
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I really need a blade that is long enough to go across the whole thickness 2" but the blades are all shorter than that.

I need to find a 2.5" long blades.
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Old 05-24-2019, 02:35 AM   #58
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Use one of mom's kitchen knives and be done with it.
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Old 05-24-2019, 06:22 AM   #59
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A bread knife or a steak knife, not a chef’s knife. You want a sawing vs a cutting action.
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Old 05-24-2019, 07:29 AM   #60
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Thanks guys,

I'm not sure we have a sharp enough knife on hand.
We do not prepare much food that needs it.

I may try a few strokes with the coping saw I found in my closet yesterday while
looking for my mud trough. I have to go to home depot today to get some hot
mud so I'll probably look for a decent razor there too. Though i remember looking
and not liking the selection of long length blades. I don't want to be making multiple passes. It will just rip it up if I do. Or I'll endup chopping off more than I need again.

This is where I wish I had a bandsaw with a rip fence.
I need coping saw fine cutting with tablesaw accuracy.

It's funny. First time I used a coping saw was shop class at seven or eight
yrs old in 1983. I remember the pride of cutting out an owl's head shape all
on my own. Think "Woodsy Owl"
The ears mostly were done by us students. I wish I had those fine cutting
skills now and Mr Toot to use the band saw. He was a master craftsman
and an excellent teacher.
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