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Old 04-01-2019, 04:59 PM   #1
Gsutt09
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Greg's bathroom remodel

First off, this forum is amazing. I've gained some great knowledge and insight while tackling my first bathroom remodel. I have started to build my kerdi shower. I have an angled wall that i will tile up to the ceiling. The problem is that I do not know how to make the transition from this wall to the ceiling. Can i just use paper tape and mud at the joint and then place tile up to the joint? Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-01-2019, 07:22 PM   #2
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Welcome, Greg.

Looks like a rather low ceiling.

With a ceiling that low, I think I would continue my waterproofing across the rest of the ceiling and tile that, too.

You decide if you're gonna do that and we can help with that joint.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 04-01-2019, 08:42 PM   #3
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Thanks for your quick reply, Cx. The wife is against the look of tile on the ceiling thus I opted for the drywall on the ceiling.
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Old 04-01-2019, 09:05 PM   #4
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Up to you. Did you reduce the spacing on your ceiling joists before you installed that MR board up there?
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Old 04-02-2019, 06:03 AM   #5
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The joist in the ceiling were 16Ē or less on center. Drywall laid perpendicular to the joists and screwed. From what I could find from the manufacturer, they recommended spacing up to 24Ē if placed perpendicular to the joist, but that seemed like youíd really be prone to some sagging. Thanks so much for your input.
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:00 AM   #6
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I'm not a pro and the pros can weigh in if they don't think this is worth-while but if you're set on a drywall ceiling but want to reduce risk of mold and such, you can go paper-free. There's fiberglass-backed gypsum panels (densarmor is one https://www.buildgp.com/product/dens...terior-panels/) and paperless drywall tape that handles like paper tape (fibafuse paperless drywall tape is one http://www.adfors.com/us/brands/fiba...s-drywall-tape). Densarmor is a bit more expensive and has a bit more texture but handles mostly like regular drywall. The paperless drywall tape actually embeds easier than paper tape because the joint compound can pass through it and it's even got a crease in the middle to fold it easier but do wear gloves when you handle it because or you'll be pulling fiberglass hairs out of your fingers. Use durabond to set and easysand for top coat (both setting compounds) and everything will be at least water-resistant.
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Old 04-02-2019, 08:07 AM   #7
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Greg, I think you'll find the manufacturer's requirement for use of that MR Board on ceilings is joist spacing no wider than 12" for 1/2" board and 16" for the 5/8ths" board. Those boards are much more prone to sagging than is regular gypsum drywall of equal thickness.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 04-02-2019, 10:32 AM   #8
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Thanks for your response. This is the drywall Iím using https://www.continental-bp.com/uploa...nse_Enlish.pdf. Iíve posted a picture of what I found to be their recommendations. Am I missing something? This is a spare bathroom that is used once every couple of months so I thought I was exceeding standards. Would it be okay just to mud this drywall/Kerdi joint with compound onto the Kerdi and then run tile up to the joint? TIA
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Old 04-02-2019, 11:09 AM   #9
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Your link takes me to a Page Cannot Be Found page, Greg, and I can't locate that page in your photo on the Pabco website, but if you're comfortable with the installation you've got, I'll help you hope it works out well.

If you're gonna treat the top of that sloped area as part of your ceiling, and if your ceiling is at least 8' above the floor, that treatment would be fine. Again, I don't know how high your ceiling might be, but it looks pretty low.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 04-02-2019, 05:17 PM   #10
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After looking at it more today, Iíve decided to continue the waterproofing across the shower ceiling. What would be the best way to go about this? Put Kerdi membrane up or replace the drywall with Kerdi Board?
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Old 04-02-2019, 05:28 PM   #11
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Either way is fine......
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Old 04-24-2019, 07:57 AM   #12
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I just wanted to post a picture of my Kerdie job before I move on to the shower pan. All critiques welcomed. Thanks guys!
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Old 04-26-2019, 09:22 AM   #13
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Looks good to me!

If it's possible, I like to have a little waterproofing outside the curb on the wall. That way, if water drips down the front of the curb there's a little bit of protection against the sheetrock and what could be wood (or mdf ) baseboard. But sometimes the tile doesn't come out far enough and it doesn't always work to do it.

Also, when you get the floor underlayment in I like to waterproof that curb/floor seam for the same reason.

Shower doors can drip and water can travel along the glass enclosure and drip down the corners.

But neither of those things is a requirement just my two cents worth.
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Old 04-27-2019, 02:21 PM   #14
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Maybe I am not seeing it but where is the waterproofing that ties the curb into the walls? Also, where the two curbs meet, I don't see Kerdiband on top. If you're already going to the effort to make the ceiling waterproof you could then tie in the service wall as well.

Oops, just saw that you haven't done the shower floor yet. That would explain it.
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Old 05-03-2019, 07:22 AM   #15
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Leak test

Hey Guys,
I did a leak test today. Didnít get too far. Poured the water in and saw bubbles coming from a tiny puncture hole in the membrane. Really tiny hole, probably from an aggressive trowel. Whatís the beat way to fix? Should I just slap some Kerdi-fix on it or throw a patch on it? Do I need to wait for it to completely dry out to try a leak test again? Many thanks.
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