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Old 04-27-2019, 07:39 AM   #46
gslenk
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After reading through several data sheets, it appears most SLC's are not to be feather edged, or am I interpreting the *1/8" (or other min height) above the highest point* wrong?

In the same instructions I read:
*To match existing elevations, ARDEX Liquid BackerBoard can be tapered to as thin an application as the sand in the material will allow.*

So does that mean a feather edge can be done in one shot?

If not, I assume a matching feathering compound is applied after the SLC has fully cured to address the gap between a pancake edge, and the rest of the flat floor?
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Old 04-28-2019, 06:15 AM   #47
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I laid down self leveler (Mapei Self Leveler Plus) to a 1/8" edge. Once that fully cures/dries, I'll use a feather finish, most likely Mapei planipatch.

Now that I will have half wood, half SLC floor, is it OK to still use modified thinset over everything to install the Ditra (because of the advantech portion)? Or do I use two different thinsets to lay this down?
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Old 04-28-2019, 07:18 AM   #48
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Use a modified thinset mortar meeting ANSI A118.11, Lenny.
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Old 05-11-2019, 01:00 PM   #49
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I have made some progress, slowly but surely.

Have a few questions while I prepare for the next steps.

1) I am noticing the wedi sealant is covering a lot of surface area relatively since this is a small shower. Is this going to be a problem for thinset adhering since wedi boards are have a cement type surface and the sealant is more "rubbery"?

2) I used wedi waterproof tape embedded in thinset, and some wedi sealant to protect the seam on the bathroom floor where ditra meets the wedi shower curb. In doing so (related to #1) there is a decent amount of wedi caulk I am concerned that two tiles in my layout (see green text on tiles in the attachment) may not have a strong bond to the ditra as a result, or am I imagining things?

3) Any inspiration for a "threshold" on my funky shaped curb? I was thinking of cutting a 12"x36" tile/stone/etc to fit.

4) I originally planned to thinset and mesh tape (alkali resistant) every wedi-drywall joint, including the wedi-ceiling joint (I will tile to the ceiling). But it seems like that isn't necessary, also the transition above the door seems like it doesn't need it either since it shouldn't see any water. Could I forget about thinset/taping?
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Old 05-17-2019, 05:48 PM   #50
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While I am planning the tiles, the actual width is a bit under 6" which creates a problem with my original layout plan. A ~1+1/8" gap. This is with 3/16" grout lines, and there are 10 total grout lines across the room.

What is the best way to deal with this? I see a few options, hopefully the more experienced have some extra tricks:

1) ~1+1/8" strip for the far right wall, its relatively hidden and likely wont be noticed
2) Split the difference on both left and right walls
3) Increase grout width to 5/16" which would cover the gap, but I think that would look terrible.
4) Split the difference between the last two tiles on the right wall.
5) Increase the gap from tile to left and right walls

Another concern:
A) Would that sliver of tile that starts full width, and reduces to 2+1/4" be a weak point and therefore a crack hazard? Or is that a non-issue?

I am leaning towards #1, or #4. In the mean time, it looks like it is time to work up some more models...
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:06 PM   #51
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I would probably start full tiles against the left wall, close the joints down to 1/8 which would increase the size of the cut against the right wall.

Remember, you have the base thickness that will hide gaps all the way around the room.

I don't know where the sliver is you're talking about.
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Old 05-18-2019, 04:53 AM   #52
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Where the curb 45's, a tile starts full width until it meets the curb, then is cut in at 45 degrees, until it reduces to ~2.25" I am wondering if I should do a joint there or not. I think it looks better without a joint, but if it will be likely to crack, then a joint looks better than a crack.

Also, this might be more of a personal taste thing... Those 6 tile on the right have no horizontal joints. Looks a bit off in the diagrams, since the rest of the room has seams. Should I add any there? Toilet will help break all that up anyway, so I'm leaning towards keeping no horizontal cuts in that area.
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Old 05-18-2019, 05:41 AM   #53
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Agreed, the no-joint at the sliver looks better, but will be hard to execute. I wouldn't worry about it cracking after it's laid though, long as you have good coverage under it.

Didja consider running the tile in the other direction, Lenny?
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Old 05-18-2019, 06:49 AM   #54
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I did, but slightly didn't like it, don't know why. Also produces the same sliver, and essentially the same difficult cuts. Perpendicular joints have to be closer since the room is longer in that direction, if I want to minimize joints, and use full length tiles.

Besides, I read somewhere it is standard to make the panels flow in the direction of the room if possible.

I think I can handle the cut. It is my first time cutting tile, but not my first time trying to make angled precision cuts in tough materials. I got a decent wet tile saw, and wheel, and a matching grinding wheel, seems to be doing great so far.
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Old 05-18-2019, 07:02 AM   #55
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Before I screw up on the door threshold... Should I run tile as far as possible to the door, or just cut it straight across as I am accidentally doing so far?

I was thinking to have cut edges for all tiles at the door (regardless of length). I can get an almost perfectly chip fee edge, that way my edges are consistent, in case I finish it in a way that edges are exposed.

The ditra surface is almost flush to the bedroom hardwood floor. There is a carpet, and I will likely keep carpet. The tile will raise the floor level to still appear "flush" to the carpet.

Then a threshold should even everything out. Haven't given much thought to this part yet.

In case the small portion of hinge showing doesn't give it a way, the door is on the bottom side (of the picture) of the jamb, where the text is. So the carpet runs and stops under the door. Gap from carpet to tile as is, is about 4-4.5" depending on how much carpet fluff is compressed.
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Old 05-18-2019, 08:19 AM   #56
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I would add more short direction joints and spread them out more evenly than what you have. Just because a tile will reach from wall to wall doesn't mean I would do it that way on every row. Running a tile wall to wall is fine on every 2nd or 3rd row though. I try to avoid my joints making any type of pattern, totally random looks best in my opinion.
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Old 05-18-2019, 08:31 AM   #57
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Lenny, is that a pocket door? Whenever possible, when the door is closed, I make the edge of the tiles stop halfway under the door. Is that how you have it?
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Old 05-18-2019, 09:11 AM   #58
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At this point I think it is too late to meet the carpet flush with the tile under the door

This is what I am envisioning for the threshold. I'll have to do a small mudbed to bring up the ~3/4" gap for the threshold, or spacing of some kind if it is not marble.

I am bringing the tile about 1/4" into the doorjamb without trim. This leaves me ~4+1/8" from carpet tack strip to tile, perfect for a 4" threshold. I want to keep the threshold contained within the door area. I could add a 1/8th grout line, caulk flush, undercut threshold to overlap tile, etc... if I need to move the threshold a little bit.

It is a regular door, not a pocket door.

I hope the way I am planning would allow the most flexibility with thresholds later.
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Old 05-18-2019, 09:16 AM   #59
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And about tile layout, were you talking about the horizontal, or vertical layouts having too close of a joint?

The arc in the top left is where the sink will go (it is that exact shape, curve and 45's, corner sink). I have a few Ideas for joint locations that I am working on. So far I am thinking some variety of these two.

If those look too close, everything all lined up looks almost too calculated and puts a joint closer to the sink than I wanted to.

And one more, with more joints to break it all up. Is that along the lines of what you were talking about?
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Old 05-18-2019, 09:45 AM   #60
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In my opinion, if you're going to run a random layout (like wood floors are always done) then make it totally random. Drawing 2 is too calculated and too much like a pattern. I would run it similar to drawing 4 but with more horizontal joints (joints run the short direction) on the right end.

Don't be afraid to start with a 8-10 inch piece against the wall. As we set a row, we would start the next row off of the scarp piece cut off the previous row. Then we might start the next row with a piece we had laying around. Helps cut down on waste too.
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