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Old 11-19-2018, 01:09 PM   #61
houndzilla
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Main floor is done! I've tiled up to my soft joint. I'm going to grout this area so that I can start moving some stuff around as I'm running out of space.

I've washed all my tiles of thinset, they are kinda hazy since all I did was move it around and wash it all up.

My questions are:

1) do I need to get them 100% clean before grouting.

2) is using grout release a worthwhile effort vs some extra cleaning. I'm concerned about release getting into the joints.

3) I have about an 1/8" gap between my free corner tile and the steel post. It's free and clear of debris, but I'm wondering if I should have opened up that gap a little. I have 1/4" on the other side.
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Old 11-24-2018, 12:49 PM   #62
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So I wrapped up grouting yesterday. Flexcolor CQ is a nice product.

I ended up using grout release after the first few cycles, it made washing go much much faster especially with all the texture my tile has.

The floor is "clean" as in there are no appreciable accumulated amounts of material anywhere on the floor. But in washing (water only) it I'm getting some suds (probably a combo of grout release and some flex color residue), and have I have some hazy spots from thinset during setting.


I did a final scrub with a black pad, and now I'm going through with a mop and two bucket method to lift as much residue as possible. I expect to see a few hazy spots when everything dries. I've been hitting whatever spots I see with my triangle grout joint scraper which is doing a good job and getting most off. I just need to get that last little bit of haze. It's distributed enough that I'd like to hit the whole floor.


I have epoxy haze cleaner and some cement haze cleaner. My Dal Tile counter person told me that they recommend the epoxy haze cleaner even on cement products.

Any suggestions on the process I should use?
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Old 04-30-2019, 11:25 AM   #63
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Things slowed down a bit during the holidays and it's taken me some time to move material around and pick up some of small finishing details (i'm running out of unfinished work area to store stuff).

I'm 100% done in the den area (pic shown is not recent), and am working my way out of the bathroom now staring with the wet room. If anyone comments on my fastener spacing I realized I goofed, they need to be 12" OC min. per Schluter, so I'm going back and adding more. The blank area is meant for a field built niche that is going to be coordinated with tile layout/tub height/sloped floor height.

On the right side of the pic to the right of the shower temp controls I'm planning to install one, maybe two of kerdi prefab niches. I fee like I need to provide some level of additional support blocking on them. Am I right, that this would be a good idea and unnecessary overbuilding?

I'm having a hard time visualizing how strong/supportive kerdiboard would be once tile is applied. I upsized my k-board thickness to 5/8" to help ease my mind. But I'm curious to here some anecdotal experiences with how strong it gets once fully embedded tile is installed.
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Old 04-30-2019, 12:30 PM   #64
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I had similar concerns when first using K-Board, but they've proven to be unwarranted with many behind me now.

To make myself feel better I will add one or two horizontal blocks in a typical 8', 16" stud bay. Doesn't take long.


I also make my own K-Board niches to fit framed-in spaces. I want bottom support as well as blocking behind flange where niche meets rest of K-Board.
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Old 04-30-2019, 03:53 PM   #65
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Thanks for confirming on both accounts Peter, I'll stick some blocking in for the prefab niches. The field built niche will definitely have plenty of it.
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Old 05-20-2019, 10:43 AM   #66
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I've decided going with an unbonded mud bed for my shower floor since it's slab on grade. I'm truly not worried about future cracking since it's an old slab and my floor patches were properly backfilled/compacted and have been rebared into the surrounding slab.

I only want to do this once so I figured to go with the belt and suspenders that unbonded affords me.

The thing is trying to source 2"x2" welded wire mesh locally seems to be impossible! I've called all the big time tile supply shops in Elk Grove area (all the big tile places are here since they are near the train yards). I'm starting to call marble and natural stone places. If that fails I guess I'll give an online metal supplier a shot.
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Old 05-20-2019, 10:48 AM   #67
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George, I've got no idea where "the home of copper pipe and EMT" might be. Without a useful geographic location in your User Profile, it's difficult for anyone to help you find local sources for material even if they might know of one, eh?

Best sources for such wire mesh where I am is at masonry/stucco supply houses. You might try to find such in your area.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:05 AM   #68
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I changed it CX, I'm in the Chicagoland area.

I found a 750' roll at a terrazzo supplier near me. Hadn't thought of a stucco/masonry supply. I'll give those a shot, thanks.
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Old 05-20-2019, 03:39 PM   #69
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After about a dozen phonecalls and few online quotes I found a very local place that can get 4'x8' sheets of 2"x2"x1/8" (~8 ga). Ended up being a miscellaneous metals place. A little overkill on the thickness, but I can't seem to find anything saying I can't go this heavy on the wire.

A question about building mud screeds for an unbonded mudbed. How far can the reinforcement stay off the wall?

My current plan is to set my hi point, mid point, and low point so I can create a pair of rails on either side of the wetroom with my mud screed. Post #39 shows my slope changes necessitating a mid-point. I've adjusted the slopes so that aren't as drastic in that detail. It's a little over 1/4" per foot in the shower area, and a little over 1/8" per foot in the tub deck area.

Then after it's set I can work my way out placing 18-24" widths of reinforcement as I go applying thinset slurry to my cold joint.

The only hiccup I have is how far I can go from the wall with my reinforcement.
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Old 05-21-2019, 09:30 AM   #70
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here's a sketch of how I'm planning to tackle install of the undbonded mud bed. Due the area of the bed and the needed reinforcement coupled with how I'll be doing this alone the preformed mud screeds seemed like the most feasible way to do it.
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