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Old 05-14-2019, 12:58 PM   #181
cx
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Not sure what more we can tell you, Thomas. Fill and tape the seams as you would any other drywall seams. You don't need to fully finish them if they are to be tiled.

On the CBU seams, same thing. Just fill and tape the seam. Don't apply any more thinset mortar than required for that.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 05-14-2019, 06:46 PM   #182
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Just want to make sure that you use thinset with the tape where tile is going to cover it. I would only use the bed mud outside the wet area.
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:12 PM   #183
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Bingo! Since I am now having the tile go around the corner, being the corner is do close to the shower area, I should use cement tape and thinset since tile will go over it. The tile going over it is the key.

Thank you for the clarification and confirmation.
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Old 05-15-2019, 05:25 PM   #184
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You can use thinset in the dry area if you want. If you get it beyond the area that will be covered with tile, let the thinset dry and then skim coat over it with bed mud.
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Old 05-15-2019, 06:47 PM   #185
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That is excellent news as that looks like what I will end up doing since I see the tiling job going beyond the seam between CB and drywall a bit; especially over at the corner.

I picked up some CB tape and thinset today {should I confess my wife actually did on my behalf.} She told me that bag was 'heavy.' :-)

I'll tackle that tomorrow with the CB tape wrapping around the 90 and the other side down flat along the seam.

Any tricks on the density or thickness of the thinset? I assume thin layer and not mixed too thick.

I am curious, where the thinset interacts with drywall mud that had tried, any issues?
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Old 05-21-2019, 06:42 PM   #186
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I am at Three Strikes - What Do I do?

Man, in this life time, I'll never use Hardie Backer again.

Three times I have tried to put a paper corner bead against one side corner of Hardie Backer and the other side drywall.

1st time the corner bead was not set in the corner right and the Hardie side had more of a bevel to it.

2nd time the corner bead had lots of bubble on the CB side.

3rd time tonight corner bead not bonded well with the paper or metal against CB.

In every case, the mud dries sooo fast on the CB side it is almost unmanageable. Well the drywall side looked great.

Now for the third time I am scraping and removing the mud I put on and the drywall is starting to show it where the paper is coming off in spots.

I cannot help that after three times, about the most failures I have at one time, there isn't a message from God somewhere that there is another route or a better way.

Is there? The corner again is pictured above.
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Old 05-22-2019, 11:31 AM   #187
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https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...ad.php?t=76570


This post seems to indicate if you wrap tile around the corner, you don't need a corner bead. The tiler would just wrap the corner with the proper tape and thinset.
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Old 05-22-2019, 12:39 PM   #188
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Idea 😉

Wonder if I prime the very edge of the CB if that would solve my bonding issue (mud trying to fast).

Good or bad idea?
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Old 05-22-2019, 01:17 PM   #189
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Or pre-mud corner bread?
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Old 05-22-2019, 05:10 PM   #190
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Mapei's "Primer T" ($10 or so at Lowe's) has quenched the thirst of Hardie for me. I've used it twice with great success. In fact, I treated the entire shower walls with it before I put up my Kerdi membrane. For me, it was way better than trying to drench the entire surface with limitless amounts of water. And yes, the Primer T is approved for use on CBUs.

The pre-mudding will do little to combat the Hardie board's thirst as it transmits the moisture readily.
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Old 05-22-2019, 06:16 PM   #191
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That looks very promising. I only need to prime the width of the corner bead so I can get that mud to bond with the paper bead.

Like you are mentioning, it pulls that water out of the mud like a vacuum cleaner when applied and by the time I am spreading out the bead with my knife, its dry underneath causing it not to bond.

I called Hardie Backer support today and they mentioned wetting it down for thin set. When I mentioned I was using mud for a corner bead, he bailed out on me saying I would need to contact my vendor where I purchased my mud.

I called back and another technician told me I could nail a vinyl corner bead, suggesting I didn't need to pre-drill. Being near the edge, I am concerned without pre-drilling it could crack.

I have two paper corner beads and two vinyl beads home with me now. Tomorrow I'll tackle this again. :-)
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Old 05-22-2019, 07:00 PM   #192
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I sometimes question the usefulness of these front-line customer service reps and the advice they give. I am not even sure what their qualification is. Ultimately, you have to do what you think will work reliably in your situation. You can wet that little corner of yours all you want. It'll be drawn into the board before you know it.
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Old 05-26-2019, 06:09 PM   #193
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Looks like as Barry Manilow would say, "I Made It!"

I called the company that makes Primer T last week and he did think it would help my problem. Dilute it 2-1, two parts water and one part primer.

I taped off the area so it was a limited strip and 'painted' it on. The next day and following days I have put mud on a new corner bead. No bubbles, gave me working time, bonded well and today I am on the finishing coat.

Indeed, finishing up the last of the sanding and priming to follow.

What can I say, everyone has been very patient and instructive.

Sincere Thank You!
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