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Old 05-21-2019, 12:33 PM   #1
dave.adams
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Grout Question

I installed hexagon tile on the bathroom floor, and unfortunately my installation didn’t yield perfectly even grout lines.

It was my first time using hexagon, and most of the grout lines are 1/8 inch, though there are a handful that are larger and and a handful that are smaller because my installation was a bit wonky and caused the tiles to fit tighter or looser in some spots.

I’m wondering given the varied joint sizes, whether I should use sanded or unsanded grout?

Also wondering which brand people like better, Mapei or custom building projects?

Or if there is another one I should look into?

Thanks!


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Old 05-21-2019, 12:44 PM   #2
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This the bathroom with the shower project, Dave?

I would not consider grouting a floor with 1/8th" joints with an unsanded grout. Even if some of the joints are smaller, I'd use a sanded grout unless I couldn't force it into the joints.

Both those manufacturers make useful products, as do a lot of others.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 05-21-2019, 12:46 PM   #3
dave.adams
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Thanks CX, that’s helpful. This is the other bathroom, we’ve started a remodel on this one as well.



Any opinions on merit of one over the other? Even if it’s just preferential, would love to know what folks think of either one.

Thanks!


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Old 05-21-2019, 04:30 PM   #4
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Mapei has a grout called Ultracolor Plus FA. The FA stands for Fine Aggregate. It's good for 1/16" up to 3/4", sounds like it might be suitable for you.

I just used it for the first time recently, never grouted before, went well. Dries fast though, so I'd recommend mixing 2-3 pounds at a time depending on how quick you are.
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Old 05-21-2019, 07:57 PM   #5
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No question I’d use sanded.

What Jesse said.
Or my very favorite: Laticrete Permacolor, as it has a lower width limit of 1/16”, as well.

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Old 05-22-2019, 07:38 AM   #6
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Any thoughts on premix grout? Mapei flexcolor?


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Old 05-22-2019, 11:38 AM   #7
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Hey Dave,

Flexcolor CQ should be just fine, so long as your joints don’t dip below the 1/16” minimum width. 1/16” is a hard stop with Flexcolor CQ, it just wont pack well enough in anything narrower.
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Old 05-25-2019, 02:02 PM   #8
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I know most of you aren’t plumbers but looking for some help. The drain outlet is too low for this new vanity I’m trying to install. Not a great way to cut into vanity to make it fit, but think if I did something like in the picture, I could make it work.

Because if I drop the p trap lower, it’ll hit a drawer. So wondering if I can do the p trap and then put in a flexible pipe and drop it down to the drain outlet?

Thanks for any advice!




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Old 05-25-2019, 02:35 PM   #9
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That’s going to form an “S” trap, which tends to siphon itself dry. Not code compliant in most districts (at least here). My bigger concern is that the pleats in those flex pipes tend to collect all sorts of icky stuff, especially if primarily horizontal as you’re showing here.
Is it too late to move the pipe in the wall up? Putting a “T” in there with an AAV and then regular pipe to your wall connection may also be an option.
Maybe ask over on TerryLove.
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Old 05-25-2019, 02:36 PM   #10
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Gotcha. Can you explain what you mean by a T and AAV?


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Old 05-25-2019, 02:41 PM   #11
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Something like this picture. AAV = air admittance valve. You’d be double venting, but it would break the S trap.
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Old 05-25-2019, 04:33 PM   #12
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No, Dave. You can't do what you're proposing in post #8 without breaking a couple of codes. First, that accordion style pipe is against code for the way it promotes sediment build up. Second, you can't slope the trap arm down more than a single pipe diameter.

The proper way to correct this is relatively easy. I know it involves the temporary removal of the vanity and cutting a small section of drywall. But it's relatively easy work. You cut out the old sanitary tee and splice in a new one a few inches higher. Anything to stop you from doing it this way?

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Old 05-25-2019, 04:36 PM   #13
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It seems like this is the route we are going to end up with. But the things that were holding be back:

(1) not really wanting to shell out more money for a plumber.

(2) not wanting to cut out the shiplap that we just finished putting up on the wall... and yes it was dumb not to check the plumbing connections with vanity height before we did the shiplap. Ha.

Thanks!


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Old 05-25-2019, 09:21 PM   #14
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What about leaving the vanity in place and working from the other side of the wall?

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Old 05-25-2019, 10:36 PM   #15
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After doing most of the plumbing in my 1200 sq ft apartment I have so much respect for plumbers. It requires lots of math and prediction of so many finished heights.
If you do fix it in the wall and mess up the shiplap will it even show behind a drawer unit?
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