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Old 05-04-2017, 12:16 PM   #1
BillNC
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Shower Stall With Kohler Cast Iron Shower Base...

I have reached the point on this project where I need to double check my planned details, and would greatly appreciate feedback.

This is in a new addition, and I checked floor joist deflection when I drew the plans with the Deflectometer.

The shower base is a Kohler 9193 cast iron shower base. I recessed the floor joists and subflooring 2" in the shower footprint to reduce the step in height. The shower base is 34x60. As overkill, I have put 4 coats of RedGard on the entire recessed area of the floor (on the AdvanTech and up the sides 2") to keep the subfloor dry during framing / dry in.

The 60" wall is an interior shear wall and is sheathed with 4 ply 15/32 plywood installed horizontally on the shower side of the wall. I have coated the bottom 6" of this wall with RedGard and plan to install a 3M 8067 weather sealing tape that will lap just onto the shower base and up onto the plywood. Then I plan to felt paper this wall. (Overkill, but I would hate for the plywood to ever swell/buckle and affect the tile job.)

The Kohler instructions call for shimming so that the tile base (Durock) laps down past the lip of the shower base. So I will rip furring strips to accomplish this. Then I was going to put exterior sheathing tape on the face of the furring to stop any wicking of moisture from the Durock into the furring strips. (I would think that the furring strips can still dry through the felt paper if ever necessary.) Then install 1/2" Durock. Then RedGard the Durock.

On the 2 end walls, I will just notch out the studs such that the Durock will be in the correct position. Then tape the face of the studs with the same sheathing tape. Then Durock (direct to studs). Tape joints, corners, then RedGard.

Oh yeah, my wife just showed me a picture of a recessed shelf in the wall opposite the showerhead on Houzz. Any advice on this would be appreciated. The bottom of the recess needs to slope to drain. Does anyone make tiles with the ridges like soap holders have that drain but do not cause a bar of soap to slide off? Other ideas?

All comments / suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

Kohler base installation instructions:

(I can't post a link yet.)

Thanks,

Bill
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Last edited by BillNC; 05-05-2017 at 06:55 AM. Reason: Hard to follow.
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Old 05-04-2017, 12:27 PM   #2
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A little hard to follow,

So the walls will all be tiled?

If you plan to use a surface applied waterproofing like redgard a moisture barrier should be left out. Typically it's one or the other but never both.

There might be tiles like your asking about but the bottom of the recess doesn't need to be a drastic pitch, usually I do about an 1/8" drop back to front. Soap shouldn't slide off
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Old 05-05-2017, 07:23 AM   #3
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rmckee84,

Thanks.

Edited original post to clarify.

All walls will be tiled.

Over the plywood I could easily switch to a vapor permeable membrane (permeance of 5 or greater). I have some house wrap on hand that meets this. 15 lb felt typically does not typically have reliable permeance ratings.

I just found the Redi Niche shower shelves by Tile Redi. The only issue is that the units are ABS and RedGard won't stick to it.

Schluter Kerdi makes similar units. Would I need to switch from RedGard to Kerdi Waterproofing Membrane? (To be honest, I find Kerdi Membrane installation intimidating.)

Thanks!

BillNC
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Old 01-21-2019, 12:21 PM   #4
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Feedback On Storka Flagstaff?

I would greatly appreciate feedback on Storka (South Cypress) porcelain tile.

1) Flagstaff 12x24 rectified tile (floor). Any issues with crowning in the long dimension? I would be installing it with a 1/3 (8") lap.

2) Uptown Polished Porcelain rectified tile (shower walls). Crowning?

3) The website says that Storka is made in the US. So who makes it?

Thanks,

Bill
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Old 01-21-2019, 02:51 PM   #5
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Welcome back, Bill.

Might help if you'll post a link to the website so we can be sure everyone is on the same page.

Does the website indicate that the tiles meet the requirements of ANSI A137.1?
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Old 01-22-2019, 09:04 AM   #6
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Ansi a137.1

The shower wall tile is listed as COF Dry 0.6 and Wet 0.4. There is no floor tile in the shower (cast iron shower base).

The bathroom floor tile, Flagstaff Dove, COF Wet greater than or equal to 0.51

The website is southcypress.com.

Bill
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Old 03-19-2019, 07:29 AM   #7
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Ceramic vs porcelain; Grout?

When my wife and I selected tile for a bathroom shower, we specified that we wanted porcelain tile. When I checked the specs, it turns out that the marble look tile that we selected for the shower walls is not porcelain. DalTile FL06 Gloss; <20% water absorption.

(The shower floor is a Kohler cast iron shower base.)

The wall tile will be installed over waterproofed cement board.

What is the downside of the ceramic tile on the walls?

Would using a premium grout compensate for the ceramic tile's greater water absorption?

Thanks in advance for your help.

BillNC
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Last edited by BillNC; 03-19-2019 at 07:42 AM. Reason: Add info
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Old 03-19-2019, 08:35 AM   #8
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Same shower with the plywood wall, Bill?

This the tile you're looking at?
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Old 03-19-2019, 09:07 AM   #9
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Yes, that's the tile.
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Old 05-20-2019, 07:51 AM   #10
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Removing porcelain tile, shower wall?

I would appreciate feedback on removing porcelain tile in and around a niche in a newly tiled shower stall. The niche recess was site built, with a shelf made from 2 pieces of tile with a Schluter Reno-T to cap the face of the shelf. The shelf slopes toward the rear of the niche and there is generally sloppy work within the niche.

Tile installed with Laticrete 252 A118.4 thinset; over RedGard; over cement board.

At the rear of the niche, there is plywood behind the cement board. At the sides of the niche there is 2x6 framing behind the cement board.

(1) My current plan is as follows:

Using a diamond blade in a side grinder or Dremel Moto Tool, cut out a square in the center of each piece of tile, being careful to avoid cutting into the RedGard as much as possible. Then make diagonal cuts in this square.

Then use a punch and hammer to break the tile along with a flat bar to break the tile loose.

Repeat.

Grind away thinset.

Apply fresh Redgard as needed.

(2) How likely is the Redgard to come off with the tile?

(3) How likely is the cement board to be damaged?

Thanks in advance for all feedback!

Bill
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Old 05-20-2019, 08:10 AM   #11
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1. Never heard of cutting a square in the tile to be removed, Bill, but cutting an X across the tile is sometimes helpful. Don't see any indication of how large these tiles might be.

Very important is to cut away all the grout in the joints surrounding the tile to be removed to avoid damage to adjacent tiles.

2. Very. And replacing it may or may not work well, depending on how much comes off.

3. Not very.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 05-20-2019, 08:16 AM   #12
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12 x 24 tile, but the largest piece of tile within the niche is 11 x 16 of so on the back wall, really aren't any grout joints inside the niche, and the corners have not been grouted.

Thanks!
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