Travis’ Quest to Conquer a Second Floor Bathroom Using Copious Amounts of OCD

[Shady at Best]

Hi all.
I am in the process of tearing out a second story bathroom. The Tub/ shower was showing signs of leaking on the down stairs ceiling. There are multiple water spots on the first floor ceiling and I believe I have them figured out. Things like a leaky roof Jack and a tub that was allowing water to run down the sides of the tub because it's 3/8 inch out of level.
Here's where I am stuck. This 1x4 diagonal brace was moldy green and rotted for about 18 inches. About equal amounts on both sides of the 2x4 stud where it crossed. The exterior is stucco with styrofoam base. There are multiple holes in the tar paper.
I have had a sprinkler spraying water on the exterior for over an hour and still no sign of a leak.
My guess is that the water was coming through and riding the nails in. Possibly getting in under the window, riding the tar paper down until it hits the nails and coming in. Although I can't get it to reproduce the issue.
This is a southwest wall in northern California, aka, the rainy side.
What's the fix? Tear off all of the stucco and hang new paper? I will eventually have someone come to fix the stucco around the new window.
So what's the fix?

[Fast eddie part deux]

Travis ... that diagonal brace adds to tje structural integrity of the house. Just replacing the missing section wont doany good, it has to span continuously from top plate to sill plate. It could probably be replaced by a metal strap on the inside of the wall, but that too needs to go from plate to plate. If ypu install it on the inside, would will need to expose more of the wall, but you could avoid messing with the extetior stucco.

[Shady at Best]

Well that ain't gonna happen.
But still need to figure out where or should i say how the water is getting in.

[Shady at Best]

Here's a question related to all jobs. Complete bathroom remodel. Brought it down to the studs. I am closing up the walls and looking at the old hot cold sub outs. As I recall they are plenty long enough to put new compression style angle stops on them.
Should I cut them out and put new clean lengths of pipe on them. I am thinking it's strictly cosmetic unless you guys have reasoning to change them.
Thoughts?

[PC7060]

It’s dejavu all over again!

See post 34 (and 33, 36, pick your poison! )

[Shady at Best]

Pc,
I have installed new valves using the old nut and compression washer. Mainly because I couldn't get the old one off. Most of the time I can work the ferrule off and is not a problem. While I am at it I will replace the escutcheon plate.
Now what I hate is when the original plumber thought it a good idea to cut the pipe so short that you have no option but to reuse the old stuff.
Since we are on the subject. These tools don't work worth a shit.

[Shady at Best]

I need a schluter profile that matches this Kohler trim. It's called Brushed Bronze.
Also. I have only used schluter profiles once before. Which style do you all recommend? There will be 2 vertical runs from floor to ceiling, 1 window, and a 12x20 niche.
I am not sure if the customer wants a square edge or bullnose.
Suggestions?

Edit: How does one size up the the quadec? Looks like the customer is using a Kohler drain which comes in
Brushed bronze. All the rest of the trim is Delta and its called champagne bronze. The colors are slightly different but close. I guess the designer at the plumbing store said that delta doesn't make tub drains. ??
The delta stuff is a little bit more gold color and looks tacky but reselecting now with the worldwide nightmare will be difficult.
So back to my issue. I need a quadec trim that closely matches the colors. I am looking at a list of colors online and not seeing anything that closely matches. But maybe you guys know something that I don't.
Oh and when doing these trims. How are you cutting it? Should I use the premade corners or cut 90's

[ss3964spd]

Can't help with the color but for cutting I used my 10" miter saw with an old, but still decent (or was decent) 80 tooth trim blade. Go slow.

Not a fan of the pre-made corners - looks too pieced together for me. I just 90'd mine.

[Tool Guy - Kg]

Post #4...are you joining PVC directly to ABS?

[smifwal]

I use a non-ferrous metal blade with spectacular results. I to am curious about post #4

[ss3964spd]

Re: post #4; looks like it's paint covered ABS to me. Look at the rough cut edge and inside of the pipe...

[Shady at Best]

Kg, that's a painted piece of abs. But yes, I am joining PVC with abs for the tub drain. Using the flexi PVC at the tub drain.
Speaking of the tub. I am crazy OCD about this stuff. I want to stiffen up the floor under this tub. I had the tub installed but pulled it back out. I was able to get the tub to rock left to right a 1/ 16th-1/8th inch in 2 feet.
This is a second story, 2x10's 16 inch on center crossing a 8 foot span with 3/4 inch 5 ply t&g subfloor. There was a tub here before. I used 4 inch metal electrical box covers for leveling the tub. I used stacks of 1-4 plates under each foot of the tub to level and spread out the weight.
The feet of the tub do not line up directly with the floor joist. My thoughts are to double up the 2x10's with 2x8's, or maybe run 2x6's left to right, perpendicular to the joist, and as close to directly under the feet of the tub as possible.
I have considered putting down 1/4 Hardi across the whole bathroom. I know that this isn't supposed to be used for structural but we all know that it stiffens up the floor. I suppose I could put down some 1/2 inch plywood only under the tub but that will cause problems with height in rest of the bathroom
What are your thoughts? Here's a pic of the abs to PVC, and the floor that I opened up to stiffen it up.

Will someone change the title of this thread to something more enjoyable to read? I will be using schluter profiles for a second time and I have a few bags of liquid backer board that I will use if the application is right. I will have questions about that.

[ss3964spd]

Tyrone,

The thread title can be changed, but in order to avoid falling victim to any particular Mod's sense of humor it would be best for you to let us know what you want the title changed to.

I personally think the 2X10's @ 16" OC with an 8' span is more than sufficient, and the 3/4" 5-ply, too. I base that on the CI tub I removed from my master bath, which was over 2X10's @ 16" OC (ish) with about a 11.5' span and 5/8" T&G ply. No tile or grout cracks, and was still level after almost 40 years.

Gluing the ABS to the PVC is a no-no, but you know that. But I did exactly that before I knew it was verboten. That joint, for the tub drain in the guest bath, hasn't leaked in...gosh, 10 years? Yours might last as long. Or not.

[Shady at Best]

Abs to PVC is no bueno? Even if one use l uses the appropriate glue? Eg the glue that says it's for PVC to abs? Maybe I should read the fine print.
Reading the fine print POV the oatey abs to PVC glue. It says; for use in joining abs to PVC in non pressure transition joints up to 6".
I assume that's 6"diameter. What does non pressure mean? One might think that it means pressure like water pressure. Or does it mean no mechanical pressure pushing/ pulling/ twisting the joint. Because just below that it says to wait 2 hours before pressure testing it up to 180psi.
So what does all this mean? I assume it means that it's okay for a tub drain.

[Shady at Best]

Since we are on the subject. Why didn't any of you pros tell me about this flexible PVC? I have posted many threads asking for tricks and tips for installing tub's and lining up the drain. This flexi pipe is the cure for lining up tub drains on the first shot. I highly recommend it.