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Unread 10-14-2009, 01:40 PM   #1
faithinGod
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Cove base install thin lip vs. flush install

I am trying to convince a designer that my Thin lip installation looks great and doesn't need replaced. Any advise would be welcome. My opinion is that it:

1. helps hide imperfections in the wall
2. Allows for expansion around the perimeter
3. eliminates a concave grout joint at the perimeter that defeats the purpose of the cove.

Any ammunition for my side or the other would be welcome.

Thanks,

Erik
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Unread 10-14-2009, 04:28 PM   #2
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Tell the designer to show you an elevation detail. If not then tell her to pay you to fix it. This is a preference item.
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Unread 10-14-2009, 04:37 PM   #3
faithinGod
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Thanks

I'm hoping she doesn't pull out a detail from page 999 of the specs or some wall section I haven't seen. With everything going to pdf files is hard to scour the plans like I used to.
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Unread 10-14-2009, 06:00 PM   #4
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Hi Erik,
Welcome to the forum! When you get a chance, start a new thread and introduce yourself.
I reckon you mean sanitary base. Why it is sanitary, I don't know, but figure it is the lack of an extra "corner" for dirt to get stuck in.
I'm with you. I try to get permission to set on top every time we get a detail showing it, but I'm sure somewhere along the way an architectural rep did his job sellin' that base idea to the guy specifying the job. All you can do is ask!
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Unread 10-14-2009, 06:15 PM   #5
faithinGod
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You think I 'd learn by now

Definitely should have asked! I did the restrooms this way and she said she wished it had been a flush install but would be ok with it since it was done. I thought it would be ok on the entire job including the next 1000' in the lobby and corridors. She apparently meant it would be ok in the restrooms but not on the rest of the project. oops!
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Unread 10-14-2009, 06:19 PM   #6
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Welcome, Eric.

When you're working on your introductory thread like Brad suggested, add a little biographical info to your User Profile so folks can see what kind of professional you are and in what part of the world you practice your trade, eh?

Designers and architects are fun, non?
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Unread 10-15-2009, 08:12 PM   #7
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1 With base flush a depressed grout line at edge of room is dirt trap unsanitary.
2 what other kind of base gets installed flush with material most others go on top.
3 it is prefered to leave perimiter ungrouted for movement this is not possible if installed flush.
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Unread 10-15-2009, 08:27 PM   #8
faithinGod
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Update to the Saga

The Designer was feeling gracious today. I didn't have to fight, I decided to beg for mercy and it seemed to work. The base stays.

Thanks for the input.
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Unread 10-15-2009, 08:48 PM   #9
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Tell them its the only way to leave proper perimeter expansion. Unless you caulk in front of them and I've never seen it done that way.
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Unread 10-15-2009, 09:04 PM   #10
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Victory for the good guys, Erik!
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Unread 10-16-2009, 06:04 AM   #11
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This does bring up a good question, though. What about the need for expansion at the perimeter and the lack of it when using the base set flush? On a small bath floor I could see it being a non issue, but what about on a larger install, say a large bath/shower area at a health club, etc.?
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Unread 10-16-2009, 06:25 AM   #12
johnfrwhipple
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Expansion issues with tile and plywood

I'm with the expansion control myself. Set flush is not giving the floor any chance to move with the seasons.

I think in the future asking for a letter of assurance or email - something in writing stating that this is what they want and they are aware that you prefer to set it the other way for movement.

I'm sure any designer or architect would go to the books and find that function in this case has to trump looks.

That said I have received lots of work over the years from one design firm because I keep finding ways to pull off their vision.

Sometimes it's a slippery slope just saying in can't be done - or stating points in a matter a fact kind of way. Exhaust the options, offer solutions and you may be their go to tile guy for years to come.

Good Luck.
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Unread 10-16-2009, 05:57 PM   #13
Dave Gobis
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Why would you have lack of expansion? Caulk it (with a sealant) instead of grout it. And yes, I did it for years, when I was allowed to.
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Unread 10-16-2009, 06:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave
when I was allowed to
Rarely does a designer want a caulk joint in their floor.
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Unread 03-05-2010, 04:08 PM   #15
melodidawn
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Hello. I know this conversation occurred last year, but I just ran across this thread, and couldn't resist posting a comment. I am a commercial interior designer, certified in Virginia.

The "thin lip installation" is shown by the TCNA as acceptable, however I wonder if the tile you were using is in fact "thin lip"? I recently had a contractor bring this up on one of my jobs, but we were not using a thin tile product like your typical solid color glazed tiles, we were using a thicker porcelain, and the lip edge was 1/4" thick. When you set the base on top, it creates a dirt/grime opportunity that a cove base is designed to avoid.

Regarding Erik's first post - expansion should still occur around the perimeter. The TCNA shows a diagram of this, and the joint is supposed to be caulked (preferably color matched to the grout) to allow for contraction/expansion. Also, a proper grout installation should be generally flush, not depressed down into the joints, which would indeed create concave joints for dirt.
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