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Unread 09-26-2004, 10:05 AM   #16
John Bridge
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Steve,

I don't think its critical in a shower. It's more important over larger floor areas.

Stick with this thread so folks know what came before.
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Unread 09-26-2004, 08:46 PM   #17
Steve C.
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Gap problem fixed.....and now some new questions.

Thanks John. I decided to go ahead and fix the Hardibacker gaps. I had only used about 3-9 roofing nails in each sheet as I had planned on putting the remaining nails in today. So I was able to yank them off pretty easily. Only ruined one piece so I'm out another $10.00.

All the Hardibacker is up again with the 1/8" gap and it seems like a million nails. Didn't like the CBU screws, they kept shattering my bits. Tomorrow and Tuesday, I'm going to flow the thinset (Versabond from HD) over the joints with the cement board fiberglass tape. And of course....I have more questions.

1. Do I use the fiberglass tape on the inside corners like I would with drywall?

2. I have 2 niches. One is about 12 x 13, the other about 9 x 5. Do I need to tape either the inside or outside corners of the niche shelves?

3. I left the Hardibacker about 1/4" above the tub lip. I know I use the silicone caulk after I tile....just not sure what to do with that gap before I tile. Do I need to caulk between the Hardibacker and tub prior to putting on the tiles....or do I just fill that with thinset when I install the tiles?

4. At the very top where the Hardibacker wall meets the drywall ceiling, I was just going to use the CBU fiberglass tape and regular drywall mud instead of thinset. This will provide a smooth ceiling surface for painting. Is that okay, or do I need to do a coat of thinset first. Same question for where the Hardibacker meets the drywall on the wall about 6" outside the tub.

Bathroom is small, so pictures are hard to take, but here's what I have so far. On the niche shelves, I have since installed Hardibacker on the inside of all 4 sides of each.

Thank you.
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Unread 09-27-2004, 06:56 AM   #18
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Nice pictures. You can fill that gap with thinset. Any water that gets behind the board can get down to the pan that way rather than being stuck behind it, but caulk where the tile meets the floor. I'd also wrap the inside of those nooks with cement board and water proof with a trowel on membrane such as Redguard to keep water from getting back to those bare studs. With the redguard over corners and in corners, you need 6" mesh tape and make sure you use a little more thinset on the back edge of the tiles on the bottom of the nook to give the nook shelf a bit of a slope to drain any water.

"Saving the world from premixed thinset one customer at a time"

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Unread 09-27-2004, 12:50 PM   #19
Steve C.
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Vapor barrier does NOT go over the lip of the tub

I wish I had found this site before my project started.

Yesterday, I finished hanging all the Hardibacker 500. One side of the tub/shower is on an external wall, the others an internal wall. I used 4 mil poly between the studs and Hardibacker. Unfortunately, the poly goes all the way to the floor...behind the tub and not over the lip.

What should I do now. As a side note, the other shower was pretty old and didn't have any vapor barrier, was over 3/8" drywall, and it lasted okay. But I want to do things right. On the two internal walls, I can cut the poly if need be....

Please advise.
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Unread 09-27-2004, 01:31 PM   #20
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This is the 1st time I've used this website and I created 4 separate threads for the same project.

They are titled:

Another Hardibacker Question
Me again........Mastic or Thinset?
Painting Hardibacker
Rialto Tiles in Bathroom

I was going to merge these with the name of "Bathroom Project with Rialto Tiles and Hardibacker" or something like that. But then I realized I'm not allowed to do that. If you think these should be merged, please do so.

Thank you.
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Unread 09-27-2004, 07:44 PM   #21
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Any ideas on the moisture barrier?
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Unread 09-28-2004, 05:57 AM   #22
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Leave the moisture barrier as you have it. There's not going to be that much water in the first place, and it will evaporate in the spacu under the tub.

Perform regular maintenance on your shower/tub walls to ensure the grout and caulk are intact and the sealer is re-applied routinely. Squeegee or towell dry the walls after each use. You won't have a moisture problem.
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Unread 09-28-2004, 06:08 AM   #23
Steve C.
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6" Mesh Tape?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Unregistered
With the redguard over corners and in corners, you need 6" mesh tape
Any ideas where I can get 6" CBU mesh tape? Lowes and HD don't have it....I was lucky to find the 2" tape there as they kept telling me to use regular drywall tape.
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Unread 09-28-2004, 06:53 AM   #24
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Steve, I got mine from a local tile supplier. It was Conestoga tile. I went to Lowes and HD and they didnt have it. Perhaps you could see if there is a supplier near you. They dont usually sell to the "general public", but for small items, generally if you go to the counter they will sell it to you.
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Unread 09-28-2004, 08:05 AM   #25
Steve C.
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I worry too much.........so I need to reiterate

Thanks to all of you who have answered my many questions. I'm going to start flowing and taping tonight......here's is what I gathered....did I get everything correctly?

1. I use 2" CBU tape througout the shower, including all inside corners and seams between the Hardibacker sheets. I use Versabond modified thinset to flow over the tape.

2. Where the Hardibacker meets the drywall ceiling (inside the shower/tub) and drywall wall outside the shower/tub, I use 2" CBU tape and the modified thinset. Then after the thinset dries, I use drywall mud to smooth the side of the corners/seams that is going to be painted instead of having tile.

3. When all the thinset dries, I use RedGard on all the inside corners and hardibacker seams over the thinset/tape. 2 coats of RedGard.

4. On the niche, I use 6" CBU tape on the inside corners and outside corners. I use the same Versabond modified thinset to cover the 6" tape on the inside and outside corners. (This will be hard in the smaller niche).

5. I coat the entire inside of the niches including the inside and outside corners with Red Gard. 2 coats of Red Gard.

6. I use thinset to fill the gap between the tub and the Hardibacker sheets.

6. When all that dries, I'm ready to begin tiling.

Please let me know if I have this down.......I'll wait for your go-ahead before I continue.

Did I mention that I have high blood pressure?
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Unread 09-28-2004, 08:55 AM   #26
grisby
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[quote=Steve C.]
6. I use thinset to fill the gap between the tub and the Hardibacker sheets.


Don't use thinset between tub and hardi--caulk that area.

I am no pro, but everything else looks good. Just take your time.
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Unread 10-07-2004, 01:52 PM   #27
Steve C.
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RedGard

I bought the RedGard yesterday and will be applying it tomorrow. It was pretty expensive. I have a question of curiosity.

If the niche is made out of Hardibacker (1/2").......why do I need to RedGard it but don't need to RedGard the rest of the Hardibacker walls? I guess the same question for the inside/outside corners of the Hardibacker wall?

Thanks.
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Unread 10-07-2004, 02:00 PM   #28
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The vapor barrier behind the niche is not continuous with the vapor barrier throughout the rest of the shower, plus, the shelves are horizontal, making it less easy for the water to drain out.
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Unread 10-08-2004, 05:23 AM   #29
Steve C.
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Porcelain or ceramic

I was told by the guy at Lowe's that the Rialto tiles were porcelain.....yet I noticed the box states "GL Ceramic Tiles". Does anyone know what they are?

Thanks.
Steve
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Unread 10-08-2004, 06:33 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve C.
This is the 1st time I've used this website and I created 4 separate threads for the same project.

They are titled:

Another Hardibacker Question
Me again........Mastic or Thinset?
Painting Hardibacker
Rialto Tiles in Bathroom

I was going to merge these with the name of "Bathroom Project with Rialto Tiles and Hardibacker" or something like that. But then I realized I'm not allowed to do that. If you think these should be merged, please do so.

Thank you.

There you go, Steve! All rounded up and bundled in one thread.
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