Blade issues

[Vmaxman]

I having a hard time cutting some porcelain.

I have a dewalt saw. Its nearly new. I used the original blade to do one 3x5 shower. As the job progressed, i noticed it taking a bit longer to cut 24" rips. Once i got to the floor, i decided to try a new blade that i had on the shelf. Its called "solid gold" and its from contractors direct. It cut through these 7/16" thick tiles like a dream.

It didnt last long though. My floor is only 6'x6'. By the time i was done, the new blade was cutting poorly.

I started on a new fllor today using the same tile. Having a real hard time cutting it. They keep cracking.

I make a few cuts into a concrete block with minimal water thinking this would dress the blade. It didnt seem to help.

Questions:
How much water should i be pumping onto the blade when i cut tile? Seems like i cant get this pump dialed in. Its either blasting the blade with a ton or a little trickle that doesnt hit the blade at all.

How to properly dress a blade with block or brick or?. How much water should be used when dressing

Do my blades look ok? Should i buy yet another?

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[Lazarus]

Without feeling them, the blades don't look bad. Personally, I like the T3 Razor. It's my "go to" blade.

Your water flow should be fairly generous and should hit just before the cut.

Looking at your cut, it almost seems that the table wobbles after the initial cut area. You may have some "play" in the carriage assembly. Have you tried a slower cut with a different tile?

[Lou_MA]

For water flow, there should be a white plastic clip on the water tube (near the pump) that you can either leave open for max water flow, or click progressively closed to restrict flow.

[Davy]

You definitely want the water hitting the blade when cutting and dressing the blade. I use the yellow fire bricks to dress my blade. Those are used to build fireboxes in fireplaces. I found they work fairly well. Rip the bricks long ways 4-5 times and you'll tell a difference. Finding the fire bricks may be the hardest part. When I stop by the masonry supply to get sand and cement, I'll pick up a few while I'm there.

Check your table for square. Get a framing square or 12 inch speed square and set on the rolling table right up near the blade. I hold it back away from the blade about 1/32 of an inch and roll the table to see if that gap changes. Adjust the table if you need to.

[Vmaxman]

Its back to cutting good again.
Im leaving the water spray amount fairly high.
I used a dressing stone on the blade. I made a ton of very shallow cuts on it.

Tried it on the tile. Much improved.

Grabbed an old metal grinding wheel and cut into it a bunch if times. Hit it with the dressing stone again. Even better. Almost as good as the factory rectified edges on the tile

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[Vmaxman]

And long rips are working. Kinda of a pain to do onthe dewalt but it works well enough.

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[Davy]

Yeah, all you can do is mark the tile and free hand them. I like using an ultra fine tip felt marker. Or run a strip of masking tape on the tile and put your mark on it.

[Just In Tile LLC]

For long planks I'll set my guage on a second piece of tile like a saw fence. Then slide the one I'm cutting against it until it clears the front of the tray and push it through.

[Lazarus]

Good thought, Justin....

[tilelayer]

i can attest to that solid gold blade. They work great and i have worn one out until there was no kerf left on the blade. Sharpen with that stone you have that came with the blade, cinder block works well or i honestly would say cured drypack works the best. Cut slow and let the saw do the work.