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Unread 04-29-2016, 07:50 PM   #1
chesterflick
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elevation in commercials bathrooms

okay here is a problem and also how I handle it, usually.
I Have wall tile, base tile and floor tile. Wall substrates are perfect floor is flat but the perimeter of the room where the floor meets wall, although flat, changes in elevation. example. When I put my 10' straight edge on the floor where the base is going to sit it goes down hill or uphill about 1" and this up and down elevation is throughout the perimeter of the room.
I always try to make that course of base level so the wall tile can follow by running a screed with a modified floor mud. I call it micro screeding. The other option it to cut the base to the wall tile field or cut the wall tile to the base but it wont look good. If the floor goes up or down 1"within 8 or even 10 feet, it is out of tolerance for sure according to the TCNA. whether I screed or cut it is extra work and if the elevation of the perimeter changes become lower as you go to the entrance the you have yet
another issue to deal with.
I have looked in the TCNA and ANSI books and cannot find anything that addresses this type of issue but I do believe the 1/4" in 10' from the required plane comes into play since the required plane in this instance would be level.
No one lets us put wall tile in un-level. Isn't base the first course of wall tile?
I have been doing this a long time and the arguments with the contractors is always explosive. many times they think it is our responsibility to fix any and all issues caused by substrates trades at our cost. I would sure like just once for me to do a lousy job and the painter has to fix it. Anyway it is a bit of a rant but it is so common these days.. Any comments or questions are welcomed
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Unread 04-29-2016, 09:06 PM   #2
Autoplay
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Years ago when I did commercial work...we would establish a water level line around entire room,and measure from that line on down to the floor in various areas,to see what floor was doing.

We would then skim float perimeter of room,about 1-2 ft out,using deck mud mixed with straight milk(no water in mud). Was a fun,sticky affair lol.

It did speed production,being able to start stacking off a level base,and also aided,in regards to water draining to drains etc.
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Unread 04-30-2016, 11:42 AM   #3
Davy
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Tom, don't get me started on painters. I told one the other day that he needs to come back and get HIS over spray that he left on my floor.

Like you said, either way you do it will cost you time. Mudding the floor level and flat will at least make it look good and be the best option. That is if you can stand the added height.
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