Smooth Cutting Diamond Blade

[Corey]

Ok, this might seem like a simple question, but I have used 4 or 5 different diamond blades (all from Home Depot, or Lowes) and they always chip porcelain tile. Tiny chips, but chips, no less. I was in Bedrosians the other day and their displays have the same porcelain tile that I am cutting, and their cuts have absolutely no chips. Like they were cut with a lazer. The small diamond protrusions on the blades that I have used seem to nick the surface of the tile. Are there blades out there that do not have these diamond protrusions, or have super tiny diamonds? I'm not an expert on how the diamond blades are manufactured but something cut the tiles in Bedrosians and I want to know where to get that blade. Anybody?

Thanks for your help,
Corey

P.S. I have asked the associate at Bedrosians to find out what blade was used on the displays. I'll let you know what she says.

[Shpedly]

Corey, Are those, chips on the surface of the tile, or is knocking a chip or chunk, out of the bottom, at the end of your cut?

P.S. I'm sure, plenty of blade salesmen will chime in shortly.

[James Powell]

+1 on an answer..

[jadnashua]

If your saw blade and/or motor shaft or arbor has any wobble, or the tray is not aligned properly with the blade's, then you'll get chips. Also, if your water flow is not good enough or directed incorrectly, things will get too hot, and microexplosions caused by the rapid heating can cause chipping.

A continuous rim might be better, but if not cooled well, will warp and make things worse. Some blades are better than others, and HD doesn't always carry the best.

[Houston Remodeler]

It also depends on the tile. We have a straight cutting Dewalt and use a T3 Razor ($89). For super hard tiles, we use the plunge feature and cut from the top down. We can get super thin cuts that way. There are times the tile is so cheeply made there is nothing we can do to avoid minor chipping.

[Corey]

So the saw can have an effect on the cut as well as the blade huh? Well, I was originally using a husky wet saw. Had to return it to it's owner and have since just been dry cutting. Both scenarios had the same effect. Tiny chips out of the top of the tile. Maybe I should try to find a good used tile saw and start from there. What would be a good quality tile saw that you guys would recommend? I don't have a problem dropping some extra dough on a nice saw if hats what it's gonna take.

Thanks everybody for the responses.

Corey

[Shpedly]

Corey, What are you trying to cut, size, etc? How much tiling beyond this project are you planning? Maybe I have'nt looked hard enough, but I have yet to see a "good" used wet saw cheap enough, that I would'nt pay for a new one.

[Corey]

Yeah you're probably right Shpedly, I should probably just buy new. I only have my back porch area left to tile (20x10) but I do plan on selling at the beginning of next year. So I will buying another fixer shortly after and will definitely need a decent tile saw. So, with that said, what would be the best tile saw for the price, in your opinions?

Corey

[Dave Taylor]

Corey writes: what would be the best tile saw for the price, in your opinions?

That's a question this forum frequently fields, Corey.

Only you know what's best for your personal situation and requirements, now and in the future but...... for some great help....

search these open forums --on thread titles only-- for the keywords "wet saw" and you will get many opinions.

Just choose the opionion which fits your situation best.

I hope this helps.

[Shpedly]

Corey, The best value I have found is the QEP 83200 rail saw at $299. I bought one 3 years ago and have been very satisfied. I immediately put a MK 225 Hot Dog blade on it $55. It cuts straight with no chipping, even on the hardest of porcelains. It rips 24" and diagonal cuts 18" tiles, so it gives you a lot more range over some smaller units. I've used my buddies Dewalt and still prefer the much cheaper QEP. I just prefer pull cuts rather than push through. For another $60 there is QEP 830Z thats rips 30" and 22" diagonal, 2 HP motor over the 1 1/2 of the 83200. The 830Z also does plunge cuts that the 83200 does not. I have never missed that feature as I always use an angle grinder with a 4" continuous rim blade. Both units tilt for miters at 45 and 90 degrees. I have used the 83200 very hard over the 3 years to the point of abuse and the motor is starting to bogg down cutting 1/2" stuff. Maybe the extra $60 to get the extra 1/2HP might be worth it. The laser guide is worthless, dont even bother hooking it up. The stock blade is garbage as well, so dont even try cutting anything with it. For $350 with a good blade, its a hell of a good saw for a part time tiler.

As Dave said, there are tons of opinions on saws and blades on this forum. I would check some of those out, but fair warning, the opinions are more varied than the meaning of life.

[Gordon Kaske]

Hit craigs list you never know. Thats where I got my 10" Felker TM 1HT 1000.00 saw new I got it for 280.00 with a blade all most new. Cuts straight as an arrow, and the Balador motor is the key to the power not all 1.5 horse motors are equal. Just happend a flooring company bought someone out, and did not need all the saws, he also had a target, and an MK.


Gordy