Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 11-24-2021, 10:39 AM   #16
Chel10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 32
You are correct in that assumption Shawn, I will be putting smaller pieces to finish up the tile. From what I can tell, the carpet and tile will be at the same height when all is finished. So the tile I put there was an example of it being finished, but will be leaving about 3/8" in between the tack strip and tile. I assume that should be adequate.

Cx - I will do that thanks! I will add a location to my profile.
__________________
Andrea
Chel10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-24-2021, 02:44 PM   #17
smifwal
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,789
I had to measure my finger but yes that would be sufficient
__________________
Shawn
smifwal is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-25-2021, 09:44 AM   #18
Chel10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 32
You guys seriously crack me up!
__________________
Andrea
Chel10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-25-2021, 10:04 AM   #19
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,410
Shawn has obviously done more carpet work than I, but 3/8ths" gap between tile and tack strips sounds a bit wide to me. Perhaps he's judging by the type of carpet he sees in your photos?
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-09-2021, 04:46 PM   #20
Chel10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 32
Sorry CX, didn't see this until now. I actually got the 3/8th inch from a reference in the Liberry, which I didn't see until we started talking about the transitioning between the carpet and tile. So would you think between 1/4 inch and 3/8th inch would be adequate?

I haven't been able to work on my project until now - thus why I've been missing on the forum. I actually almost finished my accent wall (looks stellar if I do say so myself!) - I will post more photos when it is completely done. So once I finish the little details on the wall I plan on tackling my transition.

Maybe you guys may want to weigh in? I'm thinking of grouting my bathroom floor after completing the transition. That way I could start putting in stuff like my vanity, toilet etc. Then work on the remaining walls of the shower, bench and curb. It seems logical in my head, but would welcome any extra thoughts!

The other thing I was trying to determine, is I will be carrying the tile from shower half wall, towards the vanity - see picture for reference ( the blue is the vanity and white is the tile). I also attached a bit of my 'plans' for the bathroom. I wasn't sure if I should install vanity, then install tile and backsplash, or if I should tile the whole half wall and then install the vanity, then finally install the backsplash once the vanity quartz is installed.

Name:  plain room.jpg
Views: 125
Size:  62.8 KBName:  Schematic for tile.jpg
Views: 128
Size:  76.7 KB Name:  Room plan.jpg
Views: 128
Size:  36.1 KB
__________________
Andrea
Chel10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-09-2021, 05:55 PM   #21
smifwal
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,789
I have done carpet a time or 2. (20 years actually) Her thick nap carpet 3/8 will probably work. I have never measured the distance but I would say it is closer to 5/16. Like I said I put my finger in between the tack strip and the tile and pinch it a bit and has worked out well too tight and you will have a hell of a fight to get it to tuck(Berbers you will push the nap off at the row) and too loose you will get a valley between the strip and the tile
__________________
Shawn
smifwal is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-09-2021, 06:13 PM   #22
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,410
I'm not really much of a carpet guy, Andrea. If Shawn thinks 3/8ths" will work, I certainly won't argue.

Were I to do your tile and cabinet work (I'm always the trim/cabinet man on my jobs), I'd tile at least inside the perimeter line of the cabinets before installing the cabinets. If it would delay the work, though, I'd install the cabinets and let the tile man tile around them. It can be made to work either way.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-09-2021, 07:12 PM   #23
Chel10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by smifwal
I have done carpet a time or 2. (20 years actually) Her thick nap carpet 3/8 will probably work. I have never measured the distance but I would say it is closer to 5/16. Like I said I put my finger in between the tack strip and the tile and pinch it a bit and has worked out well too tight and you will have a hell of a fight to get it to tuck(Berbers you will push the nap off at the row) and too loose you will get a valley between the strip and the tile
Fantastic, thanks for all the feedback!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cx
Were I to do your tile and cabinet work (I'm always the trim/cabinet man on my jobs), I'd tile at least inside the perimeter line of the cabinets before installing the cabinets. If it would delay the work, though, I'd install the cabinets and let the tile man tile around them. It can be made to work either way.
Ok, sounds good. Since I am doing everything, I can do, literally whatever I want. And the timeline.....let's just say that we have lived this long without our master bath, that a little extra time won't hurt.
__________________
Andrea
Chel10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-09-2021, 08:12 PM   #24
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,410
Then you should have no scheduling problem with either the cabinet lady or the tile lady and you'll lose no time regardless the order you decide the work should take. I'd tile first. After, of course, I determined that corner was very square and both sides plumb. That will make your cabinet lady much happier.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!

Last edited by cx; 01-01-2022 at 07:46 PM. Reason: Typo
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-10-2021, 01:59 PM   #25
Chel10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 32
These ladies get things done so I'm sure they won't have a problem at all. The problem herein lies with her tiny little bosses
__________________
Andrea

Last edited by cx; 12-10-2021 at 03:02 PM.
Chel10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-12-2021, 06:36 PM   #26
Chel10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 32
Tile Layout

So I changed my direction, and will be finishing up the shower first. So I'm now planning out the layout of my second tile. I was originally going to go with a 1/3 bricklay but now I'm considering doing a horizontal straight stack. Which is easier to lay? My tile are 3x12s, white with a bit of a wave.

Name:  tile.png
Views: 108
Size:  76.4 KBName:  wall1.jpg
Views: 93
Size:  74.4 KBName:  wall 3.jpg
Views: 107
Size:  67.5 KB
__________________
Andrea
Chel10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-12-2021, 11:56 PM   #27
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 12,385
Straight lay would eliminate any lippage due to the inherent warp in the tile. I'm not sure you'd like the looks of it, but to be sure I'd lay some out on the floor and see what you think.

There's bound to be some minor differences in the width of the tile, so keep a long level handy, and be prepared to compensate for that. I'd do a vertical row at a time, checking with the level to make adjustments.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-13-2021, 01:40 PM   #28
Chel10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kman
Straight lay would eliminate any lippage due to the inherent warp in the tile. I'm not sure you'd like the looks of it, but to be sure I'd lay some out on the floor and see what you think.
thanks for the advice, I will definitely lay it out to visualize as I'm a very visual person. I do like the horizontal straight stacked, so that's what I'm leaning towards. I have some planning to do since I have 3 walls to coordinate, two niches, the ground/wall transitions and the wall ceiling transition. I do not like those little sliver pieces that sometimes happens, so I'm doing my best to avoid that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kman
There's bound to be some minor differences in the width of the tile, so keep a long level handy, and be prepared to compensate for that. I'd do a vertical row at a time, checking with the level to make adjustments.
I do have a large level that I will be using, but will also be using my laser level to help. It is recommended to use a 1/8th inch space with this tile, so I believe that should help with some of the lippage. I seriously don't know how you guys do it regularly as it takes me what feels like a million years just planning before I lay...then laying takes me for-ev-er!
__________________
Andrea
Chel10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-13-2021, 01:44 PM   #29
Chel10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 32
Another question - on the top of my half wall I will be putting glass. If I lay the tile long ways, it will mean there will be a grout line down the middle of the half wall. If I lay then perpendicular, then there will not be a center grout line, but many tiny grout lines. Is it a problem or a benefit to have a long grout line right where the glass will sit?
__________________
Andrea
Chel10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-13-2021, 03:05 PM   #30
ss3964spd
Moderator
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 5,471
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
IMO, Andrea, if your tile is actually long enough to go from end to end, I'd opt for a single grout line that will hidden by the glass, and the glass will be sealed to the tile with silicone caulk, which will prevent water from getting into the grout. If the grout lines run perpendicular to the glass all those grout lines will allow moisture to migrate through the grout from the wet side to the dry side.

Judging from your last photo the top of that half (pony) wall is going to see a lot of water (as well as that window).
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rob's master bath project circusfreak Tile Forum/Advice Board 90 10-03-2014 04:07 PM
Ed's master bath project EvilMole Tile Forum/Advice Board 11 09-01-2010 06:16 PM
Sergey's Master Bath Project - Need Advice morozgrafix Tile Forum/Advice Board 16 06-04-2008 01:03 PM
Advice needed for Master Bath project DoubleD Tile Forum/Advice Board 3 06-30-2007 06:35 AM
master bath project Vince Tile Forum/Advice Board 50 11-13-2004 05:40 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:58 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2023, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC