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Old 03-10-2018, 08:14 PM   #61
GoRoos
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Fusion Pro applied to both floors and shower wall. It took an extra pass over it with haze remover, but it looks pretty darn good.

I'm trying to caulk the changes of plane on the shower wall. I used Dove Gray Fusion Pro, so I'm trying to use the matching Dove Gray CBP silicone caulk, but I'm having a really, really hard time getting a decent looking bead.

I've tried the "masking tape and spoon" technique, and the "masking tape and finger" technique, and the "masking tape and caulking tool" technique. I've also tried the "caulking tool with no tape" technique. All of my attempts so far have ended with a very poor looking bead and me quickly using paper towels to clean out the joint and try again.

When I use the spoon to shape it, the spoon tip is too deep (too far away from 90 degrees), and it doesn't remove enough material.

When I use the finger or the caulking tool to shape it, I can get the bead to the shape I want, but then, when I pull the masking tape, it lifts the edge of the bead and I end up with a really thick "pointed" edge pointing out in to space.

When I don't use masking tape (regardless of the tool I use to shape the bead), I get a thin layer of caulk that is translucent and grey that extends far too far past the joint.

Any tips?

Maybe I should wait a bit longer before pulling the tape? Let it set a bit in hopes that it doesn't disturb the edge when I pull the tape.

My fear with that is that, if I don't like the results, it's gonna be a chore to clean the joint out.
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Old 03-10-2018, 08:57 PM   #62
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Read, memorize, and apply.
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Old 03-10-2018, 09:35 PM   #63
makethatkerdistick
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I do the masking tape, then the finger method. Then I pull the tape off right away. I then go down it with my finger one more time, much less pressure, just to work the edges down a bit. If this produces too wide a joint, I let it cure and carefully trim off the (usually very thin) edges with a sharp blade and a ruler (provided this is on a glazed ceramic or porcelain tile). Often, when the edges are so thin, you can just move your finger across them and get the excess material off (after it's cured).

Silicone is hard to work with. I don't think there is a simple solution. The more closely you match your nozzle cut to the joint width, the easier it is. I am longing for the silicone with acrylic attributes.
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Old 03-10-2018, 10:20 PM   #64
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Spraying the joint and surrounding tile faces with windex before you tool the joint greatly helps the tooling process.
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Old 03-11-2018, 08:53 AM   #65
HS345
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This is what I use for a tooling device. Works great. You can squeeze it down to however small a joint you want.

Windex works okay, but this specialty product works even better. Their tool works pretty good on smooth tile, but I still like my caulking tube sections better.


http://colorriteinc.com/mist-and-perfect-bead-tool
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Old 03-11-2018, 12:38 PM   #66
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I'll second the recommendation of the Colorrite Mist and their special tool.

Practicing on your sample board is always a good idea.
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