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Old 03-12-2018, 12:18 PM   #16
Wahoo
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I'm toying with the idea of rebuilding this shower as a curbless one (since I'm expanding it from a 3 x 3 to a 3 x 5), but have no idea if my space is big enough to allow that or if there are Texas code issues to respect. Any advice? I'm in the Austin area.
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Old 03-14-2018, 01:35 PM   #17
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I think you'd be fine going curbless if the shower is 5' long, with the shower head at the far end. If you have a tub + shower still installed elsewhere in the house just take a test shower. The far end of ours sees no significant amount of water.

NO idea what Texas code will say about it though.

Regardless, you will want to locate the valves where you can turn the water on without getting wet, while still being able to comfortably reach them while showering.
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Old 05-30-2018, 04:06 PM   #18
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New twist as my thinking around this shower rebuild evolves. I want to put a bench in at the far end of this shower. Recall: space is 36" x 60", so it will be 36" wide. As I'm about to dig up the slab to recenter the drain to the new sized space, do I subtract the 12" depth of the bench and center from there or do I center based on the full size of the space? In other words, center based on
36" x 60" (not accounting for the bench depth) or based on 36" x 48" (subtracting the bench depth)?
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Old 05-31-2018, 10:27 AM   #19
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IMO, if the bench is of the "floating" type (front is open, center the drain in the 60" dimension. If the front of the bench extends all the way to the shower floor, center the drain in the 48" length.
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Old 05-31-2018, 12:25 PM   #20
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thanks Dan. I had been thinking about one which would go all the way to the floor, but only because I can see how I'd build that. How does one support a floating bench?
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Old 05-31-2018, 12:54 PM   #21
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Peter,

It appears to me that the 36" wide section has framed walls on both sides, as well as the rear wall. It should be straight forward to build a 36"x12" "shelf" that fits between the side walls, and anchors to the side and rear wall studs. Build it out of 2X4's, double them in the front. Make sure there is a wall stud to pick up the loads at the two front corners. At only 36" a double 2X4 in the front should be plenty stout. Pitch the frame to the drain so water runs off easily.

Making it "float" - no front, will let you get that much closer to the shower head because your feet will have somewhere to go. Rather like the toe kick area of your kitchen cabinets.
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Old 05-31-2018, 01:16 PM   #22
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That No-hub torque wrench link just brought back memories. I worked in a small hardware store for 8 years growing up (about 20 years ago) and I had found one of those exact wrenches that was missing the packaging. I never could figure out what it was for, although I'll admit I never spent too much time researching it. But.. I can die now that I solved one of my many life mysteries.
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Old 06-01-2018, 08:51 AM   #23
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Thanks Dan, makes sense. My wife likes the idea of a linear drain. I assume I'd put that flush against the wall, under the floating bench in this case?
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Old 06-12-2018, 10:28 AM   #24
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Anyone have any experience with the Better Bench floating bench (BB-ADJR)? I'm thinking about putting this at the end of my shower in the pic above, so it would fill the entire 36" span. If I do this (and I can therefore attach on 3 sides) is there any need for those Invisibolt really long (and $) screws for support?
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Old 06-25-2018, 07:39 AM   #25
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A follow-up question on the Better Bench. So my intention is to have it attached on three sides of my 3'x5' shower. Appears the best way is to mount it after doing my Kerdi (and I asssume sealing the support holes with Kerdi fix). What I'm unclear about is how I tile around the two sides (the 5' walls) where the bench will only stick out about 15" or so, without it looking crummy? Is there a trick to that? Thanks
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Old 07-09-2018, 10:24 AM   #26
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Ok, finally making some progress on this shower after life getting in the way for a couple of weeks. A couple of questions:
1) As you'll see in the pic below, I'm installing a 36" wide Better Bench between two walls. Should I Kerdi the walls first, then install the Bench, then patch with the holes with Kerdi Fix? Is that the right order?
2) I like the idea of tiling the walls before I make my sloped bed and Kerdi it, so I'm not walking all over the Kerdi. That said, how far above the floor would I start with my tiling?
3) Any advice on tiling under/around the Bench so things look good? A particular starting point you recommend?
4) In a couple of spots, my drywall is a little tight (either against the studs or where it meets other drywall at 90 degrees). Is it critical that I leave an expansion joint for my drywall?
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Old 07-10-2018, 07:08 AM   #27
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Because I lack experience I'd have to do the sloped bed first. Trying to do the sloped bed with that bench in the way would be a challenge. Once the floor mudded just cover with a couple layers of cardboard while working on the rest.

Looking at the BB install video they show that it gets installed right on top of whatever wall board will be used, and then you just caulk the bench frame to the wall board. Since you're using Kerdi I would be inclined to Kerdi the walls first, then the floor, band the corners, and walls to the floor. Then install the bench, fill top and front with mud, then kerdi and band all that.

Bottom of bench doesn't get tiled. I think how you handle tile around the bench will be driven by the rest of the layout and the size of the tile. Depending on the size of the tile you might be able to make your life a little easier by placing the bench at a height that will avoid slivers above it or below it.

No worries about tightly butted drywall, but you could always run a saw through the joint to open them up if that would ease your mind.
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Old 07-10-2018, 08:17 AM   #28
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Thanks Dan, that all makes sense. I was thinking, however, that it might be smart to tile from the floor up to the bottom of the bench since I imagine that would be difficult to do after the bench is installed.
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Old 07-10-2018, 08:28 AM   #29
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I prefer to do the mud bed at the same time as the bench, since both require deck mud. Then I'd waterproof everything, including the top and face of the bench.

I'm not a big fan of punching holes in the waterproofing layer, especially at the bench, since it's difficult to repair those holes afterward. A continuous layer of waterproofing over the whole bench is better.
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Old 07-10-2018, 08:50 AM   #30
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I love that idea Kevin. I, too, was concerned about puncturing the Kerdi for the bench. How would could I be sure the Kerdi fix sealed it up, etc. I think I'll do as you suggest. Thanks
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