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Old 10-22-2015, 01:58 PM   #1
Vmaxman
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Mike's First Bathroom Build

Hi all,

Mike here from Pittsburgh, PA. I'm a commercial GC that knows a thing or two about building cell towers, fiber optics, and electrical but not much residential knowledge at all.

I started a home addition last year. It's been a fun learning curve. I'll attach a photo of the exterior just to show off the work I completed this summer. I had some help laying the block foundation, standing the walls up and shingling the whole roof of the home. The rest was on me.

I'm finally getting around to doing the interior work on the home. I purchased John Bridge's bathroom remodeling books and have done a lot of reading here and elsewhere but still have a ton of questions. I'd appreciate any advise you guy could provide.

My bathroom is a 5'6 x 9' room. I attached a very generic sketch. On to the questions. Sorry there are so many!

1. Subfloor: Existing subfloor is 3/4" T&G plywood. Floor joists are 2x10" on 16" spacing with a 14' span. I understand that I should be adding an additional layer of plywood over existing. I plan to use 1/2" plywood. Is "CDX" the correct grade of plywood?

2. Bathroom/Shower area wall construction: Once the plywood is added to the subfloor, I will be hanging 1/2" MR drywall in the entire room. Inside the show stall, I plan to tile from the floor to ceiling. Inside the shower where the wall meets the ceiling can I use drywall mud and paper tape to finish the corner or, do I need to use thinset on the wall side of this seam and alkali resistant mesh?

I will be using Kerdi for waterproofing over the drywall. When going over the drywall seams, do I need to build up the thinset to fill in the recess that typically holds tape and mud?

3. Shower pan construction/curb: I'm learning towards a deck mud base, installed over 30# felt and galvanized lathe. I will be using Kerdi waterproofing and their drain. The Schluter videos say to set the Kerdi drain with "loose mortar". Are we talking your basic type S mortar?

Can I build the curb out of stacked 2x4's and wrap with MR drywall or does it need to be CBU?

4. Shower bench: I'd like a 12" deep bench that is the full width of the shower. Any issues with building the bench out of dimensional lumber and covering with drywall or CBU before the pan is constructed? Or, should I build a "monument from brick/block/type S mortar on top of the deck mud base? Sketch attached.

The next question is hard for me to explain. I'd prefer a full width bench over a corner bench. The shower will be getting a glass door. Being that the bench is full width I'm not sure how to handle that. Are the shower door guys able to seal a piece of glass to the bench or am I better off building a half wall, or even a full wall up to the ceiling that is the same width of the bench?

I've got to get some duct work done in the mean time. The nights will be getting too cold to do mud work without heat in the room.

Thanks Guys,

Mike
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Old 10-22-2015, 03:02 PM   #2
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Welcome to the forum, Mike.

1. Since you already have a layer of 3/4" plywood, additional plywood is recommended, but not required, unless you're installing natural stone. In any event, you do not want to use CDX plywood in any tile installation. All layers should have a face grade of 'C' or better. If you do install more plywood, I would recommend using the guidelines in this article to install it.

2. You can treat that seam at the ceiling just as you would any other place. It's not likely to see any significant amount of moisture. If you splash water that high, I recommend you put a pool in the back yard.

Under Kerdi, you can pre-fill those sheetrock seams if you want, you'll just have to let them dry overnight. I don't do that, though. I just run Kerdi right over them deal with them when I'm setting the tile.

3. I use the same mortar that I use to build the floor. Your basic 5:1 sand/portland mix. I always set the drain, then pack mud underneath it with a wood float. I've never had a problem doing it that way.

For the curb, I would cover the 2x4's with regular sheetrock. You don't need MR board anywhere in the shower, since Kerdi will keep moisture from getting to it anyway. You can use CBU if you want, I'm sure the CBU manufacturers will thank you for that, but it's not really needed. Just make sure your 2x4's are secured to the floor and the adjacent framing.

4. First, I'd build that bench out to 14". 12" is kinda shallow, but of course, that's your choice. I'd frame it before the mud floor is in, and cover it with sheetrock just like the curb. Make sure you put some plywood over the top before you cover it with sheetrock. It should have at least 1/4" of slope for every foot directed toward the drain.

If you build it full width, your glass installers should be able to cut right around it without too much effort. I've seen several done that way. You might check with them to see exactly how they'll install the glass in that situation, and be very specific that you don't want any penetrations in the tile on any horizontal surface.
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Old 10-22-2015, 06:49 PM   #3
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Kevin,

Thanks for the detailed response. I appreciate it greatly.

I will have to do some mock up in the room to make sure I have enough room between the toilet and shower for a door to swing out if the bench is 14".

Thanks,

Mike
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Old 10-22-2015, 09:56 PM   #4
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Nothing says you can't do it at 12" just like you planned. The 14" idea is just a suggestion. I won't be around to check your work.
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Old 02-14-2016, 08:45 PM   #5
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I still haven't started this bathroom! But, I do have a question.

I saw a thread on here about caulking the other day. There was a video linked in the thread. The guy in the video had a spray bottle of some mixture he was using as a release agent. He then caulked and intentionally squirted a glob on a tile. He tooled the joint with what looked to be a carpenter pencil, then used his finger. It turned out great with no mess.

Anyone know this video? I can't find the link again. Anyone know what was in that spray bottle?
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Old 02-14-2016, 09:22 PM   #6
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Soapy water, denatured alcohol...

He has a strong accent, right ?
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Old 02-15-2016, 07:17 AM   #7
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Here is a link to the video I was talking about.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4x1...eature=mh_lolz

Yes, definitely a heavy accent. Looks like an old fold out rule vs. a carpenters pencil though.

I read thru the comments. It appears his cleaning solution is 1:10 dish soap/water.
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Old 10-15-2016, 07:11 AM   #8
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Should the cement board on the walls end even with the curb or, is there a specification on how far it should extend beyond the curb into the dry area?



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Old 10-15-2016, 07:54 AM   #9
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Mike,

Since water commonly makes it past the curb from ordinary use, we like to tile and waterproof a few inches past the curb into the dry area.

Looks pretty too.
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Old 10-16-2016, 02:50 PM   #10
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It's framed for 3" past the curb. Thanks for the advice

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Old 04-13-2017, 11:40 AM   #11
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Question on tile thickness.

1. Is it an accepted practice to use thinset to make up for a difference of 1/16" or less in tile thickness? I'm looking to use 2 different tiles on the walls of my shower. 12x24 and 3x6.

The 12x24 tiles are 11/32" thick. Going on the bottom half of each wall.
Schluter profile capping the 12x24
Then 3x6 tiles above the profile, up to the ceiling. They are .3" thick which works out to 9.6/32". Difference of 1.4/32".

2. Anyone have experience with Anatolia HD tile? Its a high definition porcelain. I took home some samples from the local shop and the wife really likes it.
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Old 08-06-2017, 04:34 PM   #12
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Almost 2 years later and I finally bought some tile, kerdi, ditra, and tools. Next step, buy thinset and finish framing the niche

I'm looking for advise on outside corners.

I'm trying to figure out final dimensions for my niche so it is lined up with my field tile. I will be putting bull nose in the niche. Im having a hard time figuring out how much room to allow for thinset, kerdi, and then thinset for the tile.

I want the grout line between bullnose and field tile to be consistent with all other grout lines but it seems I need to know how much buildup the thinset and kerdi adds.

This goes hand in hand with an outside corner. I have a 4" wide return wall to tile. Do I install bull nose on the return wall first or the field tile on main wall first? How far should bullnose stick out if I install it first? If I install field tile first, where does it stop to maintain a consistent grout line? Flush with corner, past corner to allow for thinset under bullnose?



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Old 08-06-2017, 06:17 PM   #13
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Figured I'd add a couple photos


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Old 08-06-2017, 06:43 PM   #14
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There are some great threads with advice here on niches. Look in the liberry.
I followed their advice.
What I did was start my tile on the wall and then was able to match the size of the niche to the vertical tile joints and the width of the niche to the mosaic I planned to use for the back of the niche.
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Old 08-23-2017, 07:16 PM   #15
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After I opened up all the tile boxes, I found half of it was cracked. I went to exchange it at home depot and much of the stock on the shelf had the same problems. I checked the fine print on my mosaics and it said not recommended for wet areas. I returned it all.

I ended up buying the anatolia hd porcelain we originally picked. The place I purchased from had laticrete products so I got thinset too. 272 for the kerdi and gold for the ditra.

The question: my tile is 12x24x11/32 thick. Is 1/2" quadec appropriate for 11/32 tile?

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