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Unread 10-13-2019, 10:15 PM   #76
cx
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If you've not yet purchased your construction adhesive, my recommendation would be Loctite's PL Premium, available at Homer's and other such places.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-13-2019, 10:41 PM   #77
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Okay perfect, thanks CX, I'll get the Loctite PL Premium Polyurethane Construction adhesive instead then. Appreciate the suggestion!
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Unread 11-25-2019, 02:46 AM   #78
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Was searching the forums about leak testing a pre-made shower pan and mostly found information on mud shower pans with tile/etc. I have a one piece vikrell shower base. Just got a few simple questions if you all don't mind:

1) Since this is a one piece vikrell shower base, should I leak test it? (I figure I probably should in case there are some cracks in it I overlooked or possibly screwed up the drain install or something, would probably be good insurance before installing the cbu and tile on the walls)

2) Is the process to just plug up the PVC with a drain plug, fill it up with water and mark a level, and then wait 24 hours to see if the water level goes down at all? If the water level does go down, it's a failed test, and if the water level stays the same then the vikrell shower pan passes the test?

3) Is this drain plug okay to use: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-PVC-T...itting/3880607

Thanks so much
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Unread 11-25-2019, 09:32 AM   #79
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1. Depends upon how lucky you feel.

2. That pretty much covers it. I like to fill a straight sided container to set outside the shower and mark the level of that to help control for evaporation if there is any question.

3. No. That plug does not allow for testing the plumbing connections. You want an inflatable plug that fits down in the riser pipe. Looks like thissy here:

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Unread 11-25-2019, 11:48 PM   #80
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Thanks again CX, much appreciated. I will go ahead and get the inflatable drain plug you recommended. I think I found it here:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/CHERNE-2...0024/100123670

If you don't mind me asking for my own knowledge, why wouldn't the non-inflatable drain plug work that I linked in my previous post? I understand it wouldn't work for shower pans that are mudded in due to weep holes, but for a pre-made vikrell shower base I assumed there were no weep holes in the drain to worry about and all I had to do was plug up the 2 inch PVC pipe. I'm sure I'm wrong about something, but just wanted to try to understand the utility benefit of the inflatable plug over the non-inflatable one when leak testing a pre-made fiberglass/vikrell shower base. Thanks so much
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Unread 11-26-2019, 08:39 AM   #81
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If you can be certain that you'll be plugging your drain below any connections with that plug you have, that's fine. If not, use the inflatable plug down in the riser pipe.

That plug you linked is the correct one. For some drain applications you may want an air hose extension to go with it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-26-2019, 05:15 PM   #82
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Okay, gotcha, thanks again for the clarification
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Unread 12-03-2019, 01:28 PM   #83
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I think I may have to redo the PVC plumbing from underground to the shower pan. As I was learning a bit about plumbing I realized I may have made a big error earlier on. From my previous posts, some of you may see that I used two 22.5 degree PVC elbows and two 45 degree elbows to get the shower pan to line up with the plumbing in the underground crawl space. Although that isn't pretty, it would normally meet code I believe. But after looking through some of my photos and talking to people, I think I may have used the right kind of 22.5 elbows but the wrong kind of 45 degree elbows. I believe I used 45 degree PVC elbows rated for pressure, not DWV. I've re-posted some pics below for anyone to take a closer look at. Do the 45 degree elbows meet code? Or did I use the wrong kind of 45's?

(The first photo is of the 45's solvent welded together but not yet installed, the second and third photos are of the 45's installed without the additional 22.5 elbows, the fourth photo is of the 45's installed with the 22.5's installed too, and the fifth photo is with it all complete and the mechanical drain assembly installed and tightened down)
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Unread 12-03-2019, 01:35 PM   #84
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You may have used schedule 40 pvc fittings instead? Since this is a non-pressure application I think your only issue would be how tight the bend is. Let a pro comment on if it is ok. I believe it is.

the bigger issue is it looks like you physically sawed one of the elbows shorter to make it line up properly??? Is there a straight section of PVC pipe joining the two in there???? That right there is a leak waiting to happen and is a big NONO!
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Unread 12-03-2019, 02:37 PM   #85
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Yes, I believe I used Schedule 40 PVC fittings for the 45 degree elbows and DWV fittings for the 22.5 degree elbows. I initially thought DWV and Schedule 40 were all okay to use together in a DWV application since it was all PVC but I heard from a knowledgeable guy that he believed that does not meet code. Here is a link to one of the 45's I used: https://www.lowes.com/pd/LASCO-2-in-...-Elbow/3426588

I didn't saw or cut any elbows for sure, I only ever cut straight PVC piping but I never would cut into a PVC elbow or anything like that. If I understand your question correctly, I think you are seeing that there is no gap between the 45's, correct? Well apparently from what I was told, that is how PVC pressure fittings look, they fit into each other snug like that. That is what the guy I talked to said, that those are meant for pressurized systems and can't be used in DWV systems. It works fine, but it won't pass inspection he believes. I'm just seeing if a pro on here can comment about whether I need to redo this all to meet code. If I have to redo it all, I don't mind cutting all the piping out, what I'm worried about is how to get that mechanical drain out of the shower pan without damaging the shower pan. I tried reversing the nut that compresses the rubber washer, and it won't budge at the moment.
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Unread 12-03-2019, 02:41 PM   #86
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gotcha. Just looked really short on one leg of the 22 degree fitting.

IF you need to re-do the piping, there is no salvaging of your pan. It is a tear out, unless you have access from underneath. You cannot really connect the walls to the pan either.

Is this your home? If it were mine, I would chalk it up to experience and forget about it. I don't see how it would leak or cause a backup/clog, code or no code. I also would not tell the inspector, how will he ever know? That is probably terrible advice, but it is what I would do IF you cannot get access to underneath.

This is also assuming you tiled the shower and it is finished....
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Unread 12-03-2019, 02:50 PM   #87
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Thanks for the reply. I do have access from underneath fortunately, it's a bit messy of an area, but yes I can access the crawl space. And fortunately I have not tiled yet or done the walls. Just the shower pan and the PVC piping below. I was trying to avoid getting into that crawl space to begin with when I initially installed the piping since that area is not fun to spend time in. But it was hard to reach and solvent weld all the piping from above which is why I kept making mistakes and had to use all those elbows. But I won't touch it until a pro can elaborate on this for me. Since the guy I spoke to was really well versed in plumbing, I fear using those two 45 degree Shedule 40 elbows are the only reason it may not pass inspection. I'm just waiting on someone like CX or another pro on here to comment to let me know what I need to do and if it really is necessary to redo all the piping.

I don't own the home personally, it's owned by my relatives. It is a condo with other condos attached. I would leave it alone except that one day they will have to sell the condo and I'm assuming the inspector would get in the crawl space and make them redo it all because of the 45's being for pressure and not DWV. I thought inspectors are supposed to get in those crawl spaces and check all that stuff, right?
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Unread 12-03-2019, 03:03 PM   #88
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No inspector I know would....

But if you can get in there, just cut out that piece and use the proper pipe/fittings. You won't need to touch the actual drain or shower pan.

that is if you need to. If you used DVW in pressure application, for sure, you need to change it. In this application, again, I just don't see the harm, but that doesn't mean much....
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Unread 12-03-2019, 03:15 PM   #89
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I wish I could not touch the drain and just fix all the piping below, but I honestly think after cutting out the 22's that are attached to the PVC pipe from below, there won't actually be enough straight PVC pipe for a fitting to solvent weld to. The pictures don't show this, but after installing the shower pan I had very little straight PVC pipe from the drain down to the the first 22 elbow. Just a few inches really, so there's a decent chance I will have to mess with the drain and just install all new piping.

I agree, I don't see any major harm to using pressure rated PVC in a DWV application. Thanks for your responses by the way, they have been helpful. I always thought it was common for inspectors to go into crawl spaces.
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Unread 12-03-2019, 03:21 PM   #90
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I am pretty sure the reason it is not code is the bends are much tighter on the fittings you have. Also, the internal diameter of the fitting is smaller.

In this application, I just don't see a big practical issue.

With respect to not having enough straight pipe to solvent weld a proper fitting.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQGssYM5C2M

you can buy these type of drill bits online. You can then re-use whatever you have without touching the drain. I imagine getting under there with a drill and room to use it might be a bitch...
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