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Old 06-28-2018, 12:18 PM   #1
JCastille
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Curb Height a bit out of level

Great site, and my three month project is well underway. Sistered floor joists to level the floor, additional wall studs to remove the waves....plenty of work for a weekend warrior. This site has been a terrific resource.

I've got a neo shower, with the curb constructed of 2x4's on end and covered in drywall. I installed Kerdi on the walls, shower floor and on the shower side of the curb so I could do the water test (successful). I did not install the Kerdi on the rest of the curb as I wanted to complete the Ditra heat on the bathroom floor first.

I've noticed the top of the drywall curb is not as level as I'd like it to be. About 1/8" off over 4' (parallel to the neo corner). I've yet to waterproof the top and outside of the curb.

Suggestions? Build up an extra layer of Kerdi on the low side when I waterproof? Enough or not enough to worry about? The curb will be covered with a solid surface threshold and I know to slope the curb towards the shower.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-28-2018, 02:18 PM   #2
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Not enough to worry about IMHO. You can fix this when you set the tiles.
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Old 06-28-2018, 02:18 PM   #3
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I wouldn’t worry about it. Don’t try to build up thinset under Kerdi or add another layer on the low the end. When you set the curb top, I’d just double comb thinset under the low end to bring it up slightly.
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Old 06-28-2018, 03:20 PM   #4
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And lift the curb top once you have it thinsetted into place and then re-set it. That will ensure there are no voids.

Also, I don't know what material you're using for the curb top, but some stones and man made materials can bend. Make sure you stay on plane.
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Old 06-29-2018, 06:52 AM   #5
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Thanks All!
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Old 07-06-2018, 01:59 PM   #6
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Planning out the shower layout and would like to include this custom shelf as made by Gozo in this thread: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...t=43283&page=6

It's made of two layers of tiles and applied trimmed bullnose. Can I use unmodified thinset to sandwich the tiles? What kind of epoxy to attach the bullnose?

Thanks!
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Old 07-06-2018, 02:28 PM   #7
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I’m sure that unmodified would work fine. Might have to use it a bit thicker than epoxy though. I made test tile sandwiches with scraps after each tiling session during my build to make sure the thinset didn’t have issues hardening. They were rock solid after a few days.
Used Latapoxy 310 to glue ‘em up. Had a lot left over from the primary use of attaching the glass mounting brackets to the stone curb. Good stuff, found lots of uses for it around the house. The smallest size I could get was a pair of pint jars (One of part A, one of B. I think that’s the size - way more than the spoonful I needed)
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Last edited by Gozo; 07-06-2018 at 02:31 PM. Reason: I have GOT to turn that auto-spell thing off!
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Old 07-09-2018, 08:09 AM   #8
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Thanks Jeff!
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Old 07-11-2018, 07:15 AM   #9
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Suggestions or alternatives to Lacticrete 310 to glue the bullnose to the tile shelf? Looks to be about $60 for the smallest size and only need a very small amount.
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:22 AM   #10
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One of those mix-as-you-press-on-the-syringe types from the home depot. Get the thickest gel you can.

Make slots in the shelf and the walls, then use stainless steel washers or quarters as biscuits.
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Old 07-12-2018, 07:39 AM   #11
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Paul, is the slot/biscuit method preferred over notching the wall tiles? I have not tiled the walls yet.

I think I'm better with a tile saw than the grinder.
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:02 AM   #12
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If your walls are not yet tiled, John, by all means notch your wall tiles to accommodate your shelves.

You can, of course, tile the walls and then use the biscuit method, but the notched wall tiles provide by far the stronger installation.

My opinion;worth price charged.
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:30 AM   #13
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Great, just what I wanted to hear. Thanks CX and Paul.
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Old 07-12-2018, 11:10 PM   #14
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am i the only one who doesnt think timber curbs with drywall is a good idea, i only use this sort of product...http://www.marmox.co.nz/sites/www.ma...rochure_33.pdf
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