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Old 07-22-2019, 06:57 PM   #16
koihito
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Check out Bob Is The Oil Guy, it's like The JBF for oil
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Old 07-22-2019, 09:28 PM   #17
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Thanks, Nate. Very interesting....
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Old 07-23-2019, 03:41 PM   #18
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Okay, I had to delete half the stuff in my brain to make room for all that, and I'm not sure it was a good trade.
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:13 PM   #19
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For an extended change interval, one of the more important metrics to monitor is the Total Base Number (TBN)...when it gets to zero, the oil cannot neutralize any more acids and internal corrosion will really start to cause damage. This value when new in an oil is sometimes hard to find out, but can be tested in the used oil as a guide to whether it still had any life. The higher it starts out, the longer it can last. A diesel oil will tend to have a higher starting point than an oil designed for a gasoline fueled engine.

While the SN and viscosity play a big part in selection of an oil for an engine, at least some manufacturers have optimized their engines for their own oil mix. It's important, for maximum life and efficiency to stick with their recommendations. This, for example, is the listing of manufacturer's certifications for a Castrol 0-30W oil:
ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4
API SL/CF
BMW Longlife-01
MB-Approval 229.3/ 229.5
VW 502 00 / 505 00

This one is, as you may imply, designed to meet many German engines. GM, Ford, etc. all have their own specific specs in addition to the API service category and viscosity. These affect overall performance, longevity, and efficiency. It's best to choose one that meets the engine manufacturer's specs. Given choices that meet the same specs, it can be hard to decipher between the marketing hype and actual performance. Also note, some will hold those specs longer than others, as with the TBN described above. Your actual service will depend on how the engine is used. It can waste a lot of money just arbitrarily changing the oil sooner than needed, but it can also cause a lot of damage if you overextend it. This is why, IMHO, an electronic engine monitoring system is very useful, as it will adjust the change interval based on those conditions. One thing it doesn't really know about, though, is how dusty it is. Although, it's possible some of the more sophisticated sensors can 'look' through the oil and see how well things are suspended. That leads into what you should look for in an oil filter...those are not all created equal, either! Filter too much, you may pop the bypass. Filter too little, more crud flows through your engine. How much dispersant is in the oil can help keep that stuff in suspension. It's a balancing act between the oil and the filter and the specific engine design.
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Old 07-23-2019, 08:07 PM   #20
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I've switched to K&N for air filters, but I never thought to look for their oil filters. After all, I was changing them every 3000 miles anyway.

So I looked up the one for my Jeep and its about $16 at O'Reilly's. Might find it cheaper online. It might be worth the few extra bucks if I'm stretching the oil changes to 7500 miles.

On a side note, I love the filter on this Jeep when it comes to changing it. Every other vehicle I've had requires crawling under to get to it. They often get put on too tight and are near impossible to remove. More than once I've had to drive a screwdriver through it just to get it loosened.

The Jeep oil filter is under the hood, and is just the paper with plastic on each end to hold it together. Its in a canister, so I just unscrew the lid on the canister and the filter pops out. No oil running out everywhere, especially down my arm as I try to get it unscrewed like the other ones.
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Old 08-04-2019, 04:11 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koihito
Check out Bob Is The Oil Guy, it's like The JBF for oil
BITOG was going to be my recommendation as well. Lot's of good info there, but beware of the trolls.

When I bought an '03 Suburban last February, I had all the fluids serviced so that everything was fresh and on my maintenance schedule. The Burb had 144K on it at the time and after a bit of research and thought, I decided to go with synthetic.

One of the draws is longer oil change intervals, my usual OCI has always been 3000-3500. The mechanic was recommending a max of 5k OCI. Many of the BITOG brethren are quoting 10k+ OCIs and double run oil filters, both of which just seem insane to me, especially on my 16 year old Burb with unknown service history. Now, the Burb presents as a very well cared for truck, doesn't burn oil, in fact, the oil is still fairly caramel colored 2700 miles after the OCI.

According to the BITOG group, any major brand oil, whether conventional or synthetic, is going to have a good additive package to carry higher OCIs, same goes for the filters, any major brand will be good enough for people. Where you might want to spend some time delving deeper is if you've got a performance application (racing, track days) or heavy duty use (heavy hauling/towing) that puts your vehicle under more stress than usual.

The decision I've come to is that synth oil is the way to go, I will be going longer OCIs, to be determined by the color and aroma of the oil at the time. I'm expecting 5k initially, maybe as high as 7500 miles, as I become more edjumakated on all this stuff, while still meeting the needs of the Burb. FWIW, Mobil1 was on sale at Costco the other day, so I bought some for the next Burb OCI. As far as filters go, I've been using AC Delco filters to date, but may change to Fram Tough Guard or Ultra Guard. I used to be a Fram guy, until they started getting bad press in the 1990's. I also figure that sticking with an OEM filter isn't going to hurt anything either.

Hope some of this helps.
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Old 08-04-2019, 09:06 PM   #22
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Next time you change your oil, have an oil sample kit available and send it off for testing. My guess is that it will say, if you do it at 5K miles, there's LOTS of life left in the oil. You can't really go by the color of the oil...it is designed to hold stuff in suspension that the filter can't remove. That's part of the test to verify how much of the additives are left and functioning.
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Old 08-04-2019, 09:52 PM   #23
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Jim,

Did you have a referral to the lab you’ve been using? Or did you find them via an internet search?

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Old 08-05-2019, 01:51 PM   #24
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This is the company that I've used in the past https://www.oaitesting.com/

Amsoil sells a collection kit, but you can also buy them direct...might end up cheaper https://www.oaitesting.com/services.aspx

When I looked around a number of years ago, this company had the best prices. The more you pay, the more stuff they can test for, but you'll probably find their least expensive test is sufficient. Their website describes a bit more on what is tested, and what the results mean.

There are other companies that perform this service, but I've not looked into it for years.
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