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Unread 10-24-2019, 10:57 AM   #91
Kman
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You can get an after-market flange and continue the existing one around the corner and to the floor.

I had to buy one online a while back, they're pretty easy to install, but it's best to install it and leave it for a day to let the silicone dry.

I would make sure the lumber is behind the area where the new flange will go. They're pretty flexible, and need some backing for support.
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Unread 10-24-2019, 11:50 AM   #92
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When attaching Kerdi to something like a tub flange, KerdiFix is probably the better choice. The stuff sticks to nearly anything and is quite durable. It isn't a finishing material that silicon can be, but is a better adhesive.
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Unread 10-25-2019, 08:05 AM   #93
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Thanks Kevin....do you mean something like this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Comfortf...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

The other ones I saw online were all about $150 and there's no way I want to pay that much for this. Thanks.
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Unread 10-31-2019, 01:22 PM   #94
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I'm not sure if I made a mistake...I removed part of the stud (see photo) because it was rotten in some parts at the bottom).

I was going to fit it with a new partial stud (see photo), securing it with mending braces and toenailing it at the bottom, and then attach a sister stud to the left of it.

But then I was thinking -- if two different pieces of wood are attached vertically as I want to do, will they flex or expand and contract at different rates and amounts -- could it cause future problems with the tile and the boards?

Completely removing and replacing that stud may be difficult because as you can see in the photo there is a small header on top and I think because of the tight space it may be difficult to remove this and reattach the header.

This is a non-load bearing wall.

What would you do here? thanks.
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Unread 10-31-2019, 01:39 PM   #95
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Red face

I wouldn't have cut the stud, but rather put one right next to it.

It'll be fine with a sister attached. Don't over-think things.
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Unread 10-31-2019, 01:45 PM   #96
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OK thanks, I'll just stick that new half piece in and then sister a stud next to it.
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Unread 11-01-2019, 05:43 AM   #97
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Whatcha gonna do with that other cut off stud, John?
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Unread 11-01-2019, 07:28 AM   #98
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for the other one...i was going to basically do the same thing...sister a stud and toenail it and then attach a piece under the original with cutouts for the plumbing so that something is there.
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Unread 11-04-2019, 06:27 PM   #99
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The stud in the center with green tape on it "twists" very slightly (not sure if you can tell from the photo)...I measured at different points and there is a variation of about 1/4 inch at various points between this stud and the one next to it...

1) Is it safe to use this stud for the hardiebacker or do I have to sister stud this one? This is a load bearing wall and I'm a little nervous about the idea of removing and replacing the original.

2) When you do a sister stud is it required to toenail (from one side, at least) at the bottom and top or is screwing/nailing from just the sides of the new stud sufficient?

Thanks!
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Unread 11-04-2019, 07:25 PM   #100
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A bit of bow in that direction is not a problem at all, John, so long as the stud face is straight and in plane with its neighbors.

When sistering studs for non-structural purposes, you can usually get by just fastening the sister to the existing. I would likely toe it into the plates, but it's really not necessary in most cases.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-05-2019, 06:13 AM   #101
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Great...thanks CX!...what a lifesaver this place is.
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Unread 11-05-2019, 06:56 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John
...what a lifesaver this place is
Right?

You might consider letting (recessing) those nail plates into your studs, John. Leaving them proud of the stud face will result in a hump in your wall board, which I think will be noticeable so close to the top of the tub.

Also, be sure that nail plate in left corner isn't rubbing on your PEX supply lines.
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Unread 11-05-2019, 09:06 AM   #103
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Thanks Dan...the plates are recessed now (don't if you can tell from the photo). I used a chisel and dremel. But I'll double check to make sure I didn't miss any.
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Unread 11-07-2019, 08:02 PM   #104
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What do you guys think about grout color choice? I wanted to use a gray grout (also planning to paint walls gray) to give the white subway tiles some contrast but someone said using a non-white grout will show any errors in the tile layout, etc...is this a serious concern or will my plan work? Thanks.
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Unread 11-08-2019, 07:37 AM   #105
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Someone is correct, John, contrasting grout colors will tend to make any irregularities in tile setting more visible. The higher the contrast, the more visible. IMO, I think a very light gray grout with those white SW's would look great, refined even, without being too contrasting.

Grays can be tough, I struggled with mine.
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