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Unread 03-29-2020, 07:16 AM   #211
JWOrl
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Dan I'll have to check when I go back over to the rental house...

I've found a thread about this problem on the Terry Love forum...apparently I'm not the only one to have this issue, and unfortunately for some they found out too late after they put up their CBU and tile...luckily I haven't done that...I'll post again if I can't resolve this from the TL thread.
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Unread 04-07-2020, 06:35 AM   #212
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I decided to hang the CBU over the tub flange instead of above it, because of the Moen valve length issue.

I called Kohler first to see if it is acceptable to bring the CBU down to the Kohler Villager tub deck rather than have it above the flange (as is shown in their instruction manual diagram).

She told me it was ok but the CBU should stop no more than 1/16 inch above the deck. I told her I thought the recommendation was 1/4 inch above the surface but she insisted 1/16.

A gap of only 1/16 will not allow for the "wedgie" that CX recommended when using the 5 inch wide Kerdi band fabric and mortar to seal the transition from tub deck to CBU. Should I go with 1/16 or stick with 1/4 inch? And am I still required to use fabric if it's coming all the way to the tub deck instead of overhanging the flange? Thanks.
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Unread 04-07-2020, 08:50 AM   #213
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John, you would only want the wedgie if you stopped the wallboard above the tiling flange and covered the gap with a sheet-type waterproofing membrane. If you're now bringing your wallboard down to the tub deck on the drain side of the tiling flange, that's no longer a consideration. I'd stop the wallboard at least 1/8th-inch above the tub deck. Her 1/16th-inch is a bit tight to my thinking.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-07-2020, 05:45 PM   #214
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Thanks CX. I should still use the kerdi band fabric and Kerdi fix to seal the 1/8 gap between the tub deck and CBU, right?
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Unread 04-08-2020, 07:40 AM   #215
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In that case, John, I don't think there's anything to gain by using the Kerdi band. I'd just silicone caulk that 1/8" gap, and pay special attention to where the CBU rounds the bend from the tub deck to the tub apron. There's no flange there so you'll want to maintain no more than 1/8"; it's a very failure prone spot.
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Unread 04-08-2020, 09:51 AM   #216
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Thanks Dan...it will be a relief to have to fool around with the Band although I'll have to resell my Kerdi Band and Kerdi Fix online somewhere (too late to return to store).

I'll be careful with the 1/8 inch gap...I've also added some extra wood blocking in that area where the curve starts towards floor on the tub.
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Unread 04-23-2020, 05:33 PM   #217
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Hello again.

I followed Hardie's rules and put the Backer On screws 2 inches from corner and more than 3/8 from edge. Every time I tried it it ended up cracking the CBU. They went in fine in the middle of the board though.

Unless there is some secret method of doing this correctly with the backer on
screws, I think my options are:

1) add a sister stud on each side of that middle wall so that there is an extra 1 inch space from there edge where the screw will go in
2) use roofing nails at the edge areas and stick with backer on screws in the interior of the board
3) something else I haven't thought of.

Opinions? Thanks.
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Unread 04-23-2020, 08:01 PM   #218
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#2 is good

you could predrill the with a counter sink bit
It is the pressure from trying to counter sink the screw that is causing the cracking

Also this is one of the many reasons that I don't use Hardie backer
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Unread 04-24-2020, 09:42 AM   #219
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Shawn, thank you!

After your post and also consulting with James Hardie co. on the phone I've decided to use the nails in the edge areas.

Can I use these hot dipped galvanized nails in the link below, if I remove the washer from the nail? Is 11 gauge the correct gauge to use for this or do I need something else? Thanks.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Grip-Rite-1...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Unread 04-24-2020, 09:49 AM   #220
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You can use those if you want, or just a normal 1 1/4" roofing nail will work.
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Unread 04-24-2020, 09:55 AM   #221
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Thanks. I was thinking 1.75 inches might be better for penetration into the studs since I have furring strips attached to these studs to shim it out.

Do you pre-drill holes for these nails or just pound them into the board?
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Unread 04-24-2020, 11:08 AM   #222
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Yeah, if the studs are further back, use longer nails. Try to get 3/4" into the stud.

It probably wouldn't hurt to drill them out, since they're close to the edge. The diameter of the nail will cause the edge of the board to blow out.

I used Hardibacker for a long time, but the negatives outweighed the positives, especially on walls.
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Unread 04-24-2020, 11:15 AM   #223
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Thanks. I'm not sure if I will use HB again if I ever do one of these again.
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Unread 04-27-2020, 08:51 AM   #224
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I found a countersink bit that seems to work with the screws on the edges...thanks for the advice.

Do you guys do your pre-drilling (for screws) outside? I've noticed a fair amount of dust gets generated. I've been doing the actual cutting of the boards outside because of the silica dust risk but I'm wondering if pre-drilling inside is a no-no too.
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Unread 04-27-2020, 10:10 AM   #225
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I didn't pre-drill the small holes, John, but I did drill counter sinks where needed, just spritzed the bit and board with a spray bottle filled with water.

I simply ran the screws in as normal, but backed them out before the head started to sink. Then used an old tired large bit to counter sink, then ran the screws back in.
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