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Unread 02-16-2020, 03:13 PM   #1
Lardog
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Larry's Master Bath

Hey all,

I did my guest bath last year and the assistance I got from this forum was very helpful. I'm now in the midst of my master bath remodel and have a few questions I'm hoping you all can help me with again...

My first questions are around plumbing. I am trying to determine the layout of my shower rough-in valves (primary valve and diverter for hand-held). I am using Pfister valves/trims. The main valve is the 0X8 Series Tub & Shower Rough-In Valve and the diverter valve is the 2-Port 3-Way Diverter Valve. Unfortunately, if I install these valves strictly following the orientation in the installation instructions, the input and output ports will be facing the wrong directions and will involve lots of line routing, criss-crossing, etc... Pfister support lines are closed today (Sunday) and tomorrow (President's Day) and I'd like to get these installed today so I'm turning to you all.

1) In the instructions for the diverter valve, it indicates the water source is to come from the tub outlet on the main valve and the shower outlet is to be plugged. I understand that tub outlets typically need more flow to avoid back pressure up the shower line. Does the water out from the main valve need to come out of the tub port or will the shower port be sufficient? Does the tub outlet provide more flow volume than the shower outlet, which would be necessary if I want to use both the shower head and the hand-held simultaneously?

2) If so, since I do not have a tub, I'd like to rotate the valve 180* so this outlet is on top, rather than the bottom. If I do this, are there any issues with having hot/cold inlets on the opposite sides from normal?

3) The diverter valve has one input and two outputs. The secondary outlet on the diverter valve diverter valve is also pointing in the wrong direction. I'd like to rotate this valve 180* too. I'm wondering if I do this, can I simply reverse the input and primary outlets, meaning I'd be using the in for the out, and vice-verse?

Hopefully my questions make sense. Thanks all for any asistance.

Cheers.
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Unread 02-17-2020, 07:35 PM   #2
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So, no plumbers on this forum? I know it is primarily tile specific, but I was hoping...
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Unread 02-17-2020, 07:53 PM   #3
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Hi Larry, maybe someone will chime in. We have a few guys here that do a little plumbing. I'm not one of them, I hire a plumber for anything that's water pressure related.
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Unread 02-17-2020, 08:14 PM   #4
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Might want to try terrylove.com
I'm betting it won't work.
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Unread 02-19-2020, 06:20 AM   #5
PC7060
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Quote:
since I do not have a tub, I'd like to rotate the valve 180* so this outlet is on top, rather than the bottom. If I do this, are there any issues with having hot/cold inlets on the opposite sides from normal?
Larry,

If you don’t have a tub there is no need for the diverter valve. Please let me know if I am missing something.

Are you planning to use the secondary diverter output for a separate hand sprayer or something similar?
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Unread 02-25-2020, 11:54 PM   #6
Lardog
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Hi PC,

Yes, that's exactly it. I've got it all figured out now. I was able to contact Pfister support and get my questions answered. Everything went together smoothly. On to actual tiling questions...

I'm using the Wedi system and have the pan, wall panels and the niche installed. Everything went great, just waiting on a couple more tubes of sealant to come in to finish up so I can flood test then begin tile. A couple of quick questions;

1) Typically, the shower floor tile goes in first, then the wall tiles go in after, correct? This is what I was planning on doing, laying down protective cover over the floor tiles while I do the walls. Just looking for validation or correction of my plan.

2) For the niche, I am planning on using a piece of the same counter top quartz material for the bottom shelf, as well as a middle shelf. Do you guys normally measure and install this piece(s) first, then tile around the the rest of the niche, inside and out? Or, do you measure and install this piece after? I plan on having this bottom shelf with a little overhang, as shown in this example photo. I'm doing 4x16 subway style tile around, with a mosaic in the back.

I still need to have the counter guys come out and measure and need to know in what order this should be done?

Thanks again all.
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Unread 02-26-2020, 05:31 AM   #7
Kman
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1. Either way will work. Functionally it makes no difference which goes first.

2. I'd have the shelves made first. Set the bottom one, then tile up from it and set the second one. The tile inside the niche will hold it in place. Don't forget to slope them about 1/8" to shed water.
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Unread 02-26-2020, 12:21 PM   #8
Lardog
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Thanks Kman.
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Unread 03-03-2020, 02:17 AM   #9
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OK, next question...

I'm using a marble mosaic in the back of the the shower niche and the backsplash for the vanity. I'm unclear if this should be sealed or not, and if so, do I seal it before or after grout, or both?

I've only done one previous bathroom tile job and I used Custom Fusion grout which didn't need sealing, so I don't have experience with sealing either tile or grout. Any specific product recommendations?

Thanks,
-Larry
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Unread 03-05-2020, 01:57 PM   #10
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Hopefully, someone can chime in on my marble tile sealing question... I'll likely be using Spectralock Pro grout.

In the meantime, I've got another question on using a manual tile cutter. I picked up a used Ishi and a new Titanium coated cutting wheel. I've never used one of these before but thought it could make the job easier. I tried a few practice cuts on the glazed ceramic tile I'll be using and the cuts were very jagged looking. I even looked at one after scoring but before snapping, and you could see the glaze just didn't take the score nice and true. On the other hand, I also cut a piece of porcelain floor tile and it came out great.

Are glazed ceramics tricky to cut well? Is there an art to doing this I just need to learn? Or, is it maybe just due to cheap tile? What I am using is only about $2.50/sq ft. Metro White Polished II Ceramic Tile.

Thanks again for the assist.
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Unread 03-06-2020, 06:55 AM   #11
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I think you'll find opinions on sealing marble are varied (a visit to, and search of, the Cleaning, sealing, restoration forum will provide a lot of feedback), but from what I've read here I probably wouldn't seal it so that any water it does absorb can get back out. Also, be sure to check the Spectralock instructions; marble is porous and the epoxy might absorb into the stone, resulting in picture framing.

I bought a good quality snap cutter for my recent bathroom job and had a similar experience to yours when cutting smooth, glazed, porcelain tile. The score and cut right at the glaze was nice and straight but the rest was fairly jagged. It was good enough where the cut was to be hidden by other tile or trim, but I honestly was expecting a better result. My wall and floor tile was expensive so can't blame it on cheap tile.
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Unread 03-06-2020, 12:12 PM   #12
Lardog
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Thanks Dan,

In my case, it was the glaze that was jagged, like it was very thin, hence the thought about the tile being "cheap". I just ordered a rubbing stone so I'll give it a shot and see if it can clean up the cuts, otherwise, I'll just have to do a lot of trips up and down the stairs to the tile saw.

Re: the marble, I'll check out that forum and double check the Spectralock instructions. If I can, I'll try to do a test board first.

Thanks again.
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Unread 03-06-2020, 12:41 PM   #13
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Larry, I was employed by Pfister for the last 4 years working on product innovation and design. ( I just got a new job in January)

I am still in touch with the engineering teams as well.

Do you still need help with the layout or did that ship sail?
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Unread 03-06-2020, 05:23 PM   #14
Lardog
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Thanks Mike,

I got it all figured out. I was able to talk to Pfister support and got all my questions answered and everything is installed.

I appreciate the check in though!
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Unread 03-06-2020, 06:54 PM   #15
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Larry - that looks very tidy! Nice work. Looks like you ended up using diverter after all.
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