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Unread 04-07-2008, 03:57 PM   #1
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Concrete slab prep for tile - I used Jasco???

I recently had a bunch of saltillo tile removed. There was linoleum below this that was also removed at the time. Yesterday, I decided to try to get of the white "squigly" lines of adhesive that was left by the linoleum. It was very diffiult to remove by hand, so I went to HD, and the guy there pointed me to a Jasco product. I don't have it in front of me, but it was very strong in odor and had a jelly consistency. After letting it soak for 10-15 minutes, the adhesive came right up.

Only now after doing research that I should have done ahead of time do I find out how toxic this stuff is. I was in a fairly well ventilated area and had a dust mask, but realize I should have been wearing a respirator. It's my fault for not readling the label completely, but I wish the HD rep would have mentioned the inherrent dangers in using this stuff.

Anyway, after scraping the residue off, I mopped the floor three times. First two times with hot water, changing water after each mopping. Third time with hot water and pine sol. Now the conrete seems to not be as absorbent.

My question is, caould I lay thinset on top of this, or will bond be compromised due to this residue? What is the recommended way to get rid of any residue, with minimal use of chemicals. After speaking with a different HD, they recommeded paiinting a primer on top before applying thinset, specifically "Jasco Adhesive Primer".

Any advice is appreciated.
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Unread 04-07-2008, 05:35 PM   #2
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That's one of the problems doing this Scott, one thing leads to another. You may very well have broken down the adhesive, and allowed it to be soaked into the slab, and it formed an impenetrable barrier.I'm not familiar with the product they advised, but typically strippers on the back of the container may give advice for breaking it down further, i know Soy Stropper sells their own line of a product to be used aftert you use the soy stripper to get rid of the residual concostion left on the floor.I guess what i'm saying is the product they recommended may be the right one but i am not sure myself, i'll see if i can find out.Of course there is always the option of scarifying the slab, and i know they rent the machines for it.From what i read if water isn't penetrating all the adhesive wasn't removed,you may need a light going over with the same product and an alkaline detergent wash,(any stone cleaner) then a clean water rinse.


Last edited by Davestone; 04-07-2008 at 05:47 PM.
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Unread 04-07-2008, 06:59 PM   #3
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Thanks Davestone

This is the stuff I applied (I'm unable to post url's):

Jasco Adheive and Sealant Remover

I just got home and mopped the area down again with hot soapy water and in some areas it is taking longer for the water to dry up and/or absorb into the concrete.

Talking to another guy at HD, he recommened getting this:

Jasco Adhesive Primer

I really want to avoid using the remover again. That stuff can't be good to be around. Got a small dab on my inner arm from when my arm rubbed against my kneepads and it immediatley started burning, which I immediately washed thoroughly off.

So would anyone recommend this adhesive primer? I've never scarified concrete and would like to avoid further dusty processes if at all possible and if the primer would work just as well. Will the apparent seal from adhesive prevent the primer from working properly?
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Unread 04-07-2008, 07:02 PM   #4
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Sounds like it may work:

Primes floors and walls prior to applying adhesive. Use on drywall, hardboard, plywood, concrete, glasscrete, etc. Prevents adhesive dryout by sealing porous surfaces. Eliminates sizing prior to applying wallpaper. Ensures adhesion of self-stick floor tile, ceramic tile, formica, and more. Easy water clean up. Covers 300 to 500 sq. ft. per gallon. Quart bottle. "

I just want to make sure that this is a suitable route, and the current puddling of water wont prevent the bond of this primer to the concrete slab.

I've never scarrified and not sure what that entails.
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Unread 04-08-2008, 03:49 AM   #5
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The pine sol contains some oils, typically what you should do is use a high alkaline cleaner, shop vac all residue up, and then use a neutral cleaner.

From there you can check the slabs absorption.

The other consideration is your slab was already like that because of what was used to on the slab to aid in its initial set. If that is the case, you need to apply a membrane (several manufacturers make them that sponsor the website Schluter, Noble, etc) and then do your installation.
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Unread 04-10-2008, 12:15 AM   #6
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So I went back to store, Lowes this time, and bought Quickcrete Bond-Lok degreaser and etcher and applied per instructions with plenty of ventilation and fans going. I dampened the concrete, spread solution with watering can, used stiff bristle brush to scrub into concrete, mopped up solution, and then shop vacuumed the water on the floor, followed by three separate moppings.

When I first applied the solution, it immediately turned white and there was some bubbling/fizzing action, but I was expecting more. Plenty of bubbles were created when I started scrubbing, but not so much "fizzing"; hopefully the chemistry was working.

Like I mentioned, I mopped up the area three times and allowed it to dry. I did notice that water no longer beads up, which is what I was hoping for. After cleaning up, I walked past the area with bare feet; I'm trying to avoid this area as much as possible until I get tile laid down. I think there may still be some residue, because my feet started to itch, so I immediately washed them off and will not make that mistake again.

Do I need to apply something additional to neutralize the area? I thought using mopping it would be sufficient since that what the Lowes person told me. But now I'm thinking I need to add some sort of basic solution (ammonia or vinigar?). Or should I just avoid the area and do nothing until I'm ready to lay thinset and tile?
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Unread 04-10-2008, 06:36 AM   #7
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Hi Scott

You could nuetralize the area with a ammonia and water solution (1 part ammonia to 2 parts water). Don't use vinegar, as it is acidic.
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