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Unread 09-23-2021, 04:58 PM   #1
NotQuiteSure
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Shower door width issue

Hello! I purchased a shower door a few years ago and framed my shower walls, then I got busy and we had a baby and finally getting back to the project. I installed my cement board, taped seams, redgard with membrane fabric on seams, linear drain installed, preslope and post slope in, niche ready to go, etc. All ready to start tiling this weekend - then I thought I should 'look' at the door... Then I thought I should measure the rough opening. The door requires 44-47", but I had 50". I must have goofed (but it has been so long since I framed, I can't remember what I was thinking at the time).

So, I think my best plan is to add 2 2x4 to one side. It is kind of an alcove (there is actually 4 wall, 3 full walls, and a 10" segment that makes the 60" shower length into a 50" shower door opening. I want to add 2 2x4s to the other side of the opening (not extending the 10" segment, but making a new 3" segment on the other side). I would screw them into the 2x4 I had in place for the shower door fixed panel - sandwiching the cement board/redgard between the old 2x4 and the new set... then cover them in cement board on two sides, and drywall on the outside, then mesh tape/thinset on seams, more redgard, drywall finishing on the outside, etc.

Should be fine? Or should I try and remove the cement board? If I remove it, the cut edge won't have a 2x4 right near the edge... I don' think there is a problem with sandwiching the cement board - I think I will put a plate in the attic and remove the drywall above the new 2x4s and stick them up flush to the plate so I can screw them in from the top... I can probably add a screw or two down into the curb. No PVC liner, just the redgard on the cement board covered 2x4 curb stack.
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Unread 09-25-2021, 07:58 AM   #2
ss3964spd
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Welcome, Pete,

That plan should work, hopefully the already installed CBU on the face of the 2X4 won't crumble when you drive the 3 or 3.5" construction screws into it. You might pre drill the holes, but that will likely waste the drill bit.

Understand, though, that the resulting 3.5" wide edge will be a challenge to tile. I would probably add onto the 10" section instead, or re-build that 10" section all together.
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