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10-02-2009, 11:17 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 10
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Are tile DIY'ers allowed to cry? help please
I am doing a shower trying the mortar "monument" in the corner. I did the blocks and went to put a little skim coat on the front to staighten it out a bit. The mix isn't sticking to the block at all. I have "type N" mix and I'm just trying to put a 1/4 inch on the front.
I ADDED PICS at the bottom of the page
Myrph
Let the beatings begin:
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chris
Last edited by myrph; 10-02-2009 at 03:09 PM.
Reason: added pics
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10-02-2009, 12:09 PM
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#2
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Tile Contractor -- Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Elizabethtown, PA
Posts: 946
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That's because it doesn't have any lime in it to make it sticky. You need type s mortar for what you are trying to do. At 1/4 inch you might be able to use thinset to fix your issues.
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Leon
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10-02-2009, 01:20 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 10
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so this is a scrape off and a "do over", huh? I read John's write-up about building the monument style, I guess I read it wrong. I thought it said "type n" was alright..
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chris
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10-02-2009, 01:59 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 9
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I can't answer the specifics of what mortar you need to use. But I CAN answer your other question: YES.
Good Luck!
chris
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chris
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10-02-2009, 02:01 PM
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#5
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Tile Man
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Long Island N.Y.
Posts: 6,892
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Type N HAS Lime in it.
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Richie.
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10-02-2009, 02:03 PM
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#6
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Tile Contractor -- Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Elizabethtown, PA
Posts: 946
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Type N is ok for setting the block. If you are trying to put a leveling coat on the vertical face of the bench you will need something that will stick better. Either add lime to what you have or use type S that has lime.
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Leon
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10-02-2009, 02:11 PM
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#7
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Tile Contractor -- Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Elizabethtown, PA
Posts: 946
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Richie, according to sakrete their N has no lime. Quikrete says that their N may meet type S specs at some locations.
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Leon
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10-02-2009, 02:24 PM
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#8
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Tampa Florida Tile Contractor
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 26,514
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Mortar: What’s Your Type?
Mortar nomenclature has developed over many years to its current form. Designations for mortar are found in ASTM C 270, Standard Specification for Mortar for Unit Masonry. In the United States, the three common types of mortar specified for new construction today are N, S, and M. These arbitrary designations were assigned by taking every other letter from the term “mason work.” Astute observers will notice that an “O” and a “K” also appear in that term. While these are recognized mortar types, they are typically used for non-load bearing walls and for tuckpointing or other repair work.
Mortars are differentiated primarily by their strength: M is the highest strength, S is next, and N is a moderate strength mortar. (O and K are lower strengths yet, which is important in repair work so as not to create a mortar that is stronger than the wall/units where it is being placed.)
If you think the strongest mortar is the best solution, think again. True, strong mortars do generally have increased durability and greater structural capacity. But, since much masonry is constructed as reinforced masonry today—there are steel bars added to the cavity then grouted solid to create a “concrete” wall—the reinforcement and grout become the more dominant structural elements. The mortar itself is less important for its load carrying capacity than for its other aspects, such as facilitating placement of units.
Rule of Thumb: Use a Type N mortar for all masonry work unless there is a compelling
reason to choose another mortar.
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10-02-2009, 02:33 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 10
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the canvas is clean- so to speak. Try it again tomorrow, should I use type s or just use thinset?
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chris
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10-02-2009, 03:04 PM
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#10
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Tile Contractor -- Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Elizabethtown, PA
Posts: 946
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Chris, what are you trying to do? Do you need to build the bench out for some reason or are you just trying to fix some offsets in the block?
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Leon
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10-02-2009, 03:07 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 10
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a few pics
I know you guys like to see pics, so here you go. My first bathroom. Let me know if this is alright: I used alkali-resistant tape and thinset to go up the joint at the back of the monument then quit. I figured I would do the joints as I was tiling so I don't get any "speedbumps". The last pic was after a scraped off the front of the block.
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chris
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10-02-2009, 03:20 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: The Southeast
Posts: 519
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You can use thinset and level it out as you go if you are using 4" or larger tile, if you are using small tile I would smooth it out with some type S first (or a skim coat of thinset, but type S should be cheaper than thinset).
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Randal
I'm a DIYer, not a pro
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10-02-2009, 03:25 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 10
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im using that tile that you see on the outside edge of the bathroom floor (1"x2") on the shower floor and the 12" tile you see on the bathroom floor on the walls. I just broke them in half to make a border. The block aren't perfectly straight and I want to straighten it up.
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chris
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10-02-2009, 03:35 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: The Southeast
Posts: 519
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One thing, at the top sides of the curb, you should have liner there too I believe, above the corner pieces, like this
So the piece you folded back on each side should go out even on each side in the door opening. If you use a shower curtain, it will probably be ok as you pictured it, if you plan to install a door, you might want it up the sides a bit more.
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Randal
I'm a DIYer, not a pro
Last edited by rwcarpenter; 10-02-2009 at 03:44 PM.
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10-03-2009, 09:33 AM
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#15
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Tile Man
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Long Island N.Y.
Posts: 6,892
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Quote:
Richie, according to sakrete their N has no lime.
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Yes it does, that's what Calcium Oxide is.
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Richie.
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