thickness from valve

[ss3964spd]

Agree with John, though I've torn out far, far fewer showers than he has. But of the 3 I have demo'd not one had any water damage way up there.

You could install the finish arms before tiling. Cap and test it as previous mentioned, but doing so might make it just a little more difficult to get the hole in the tile located correctly, and might make it difficult to install/bed the tile in the thinset mortar - depending on the tile size.

[John Bridge]

Yeah, you can do that, Tom. Just don't scratch it.

[Tiger Mountain Tile Inc]

I use the Wedi-style pipe seals that allow for a little more flexibility. You can force a temporary stub-out through them then swap it with the finished piece later.

The finished seal will be a little bit loose but this seems to be the best compromise.

[tommasden]

John Bridge
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I don't bother with the shower arm seal. There is very little pressure there. In all my years of tearing out showers I don't recall ever seeing any evidence of a leak there.

------------> So justing leaving it like in this pic is OK to tile over?

[ss3964spd]

I see the shower head arm, Tom, but what's the other pipe about? Is the other positioned about the fixed shower head arm?

[tommasden]

that is two shower arms the pic is sideways. left most is a rain shower and other is main shower. just wondering about the holes and if I can tile over that size hole or what the normal procedure is for the holes.

[ss3964spd]

The holes are a bit larger than I'd want them to be, but tiling over them should be a problem. You'll of course want the holes in the tiles to be much closer, at least enough that the They'll be high enough on the wall that the escutcheons will cover them. Both holes should be high enough on the walls that they won't see much, if any, water.

[tommasden]

hello
I have never tiled a ceiling before. I am doing some 8x24 tile up there. I saw that using bullseye on back of tile should do the trick. But i am wondering if using a Tile Leveling System on ceiling tiles is common or advised. I only see people using it on walls.

[cx]

I've combined you with your original project thread, Tom. A moderator can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

Thought I might see what material you were tiling to on your ceiling, but I don't find it. Doesn't matter much, though. What you need is a flat ceiling and flat tiles and very close to 100 percent coverage on the back of the tiles with thinset mortar mixed to the right consistency. They'll stay up there.

Originally Posted by Tom

I saw that using bullseye on back of tile should do the trick.

You're gonna hafta help some of us with that. 'Fraid I've got no eye-dee what you might mean there.

As for the lippage control tools, I've never heard of anyone using them on a ceiling, but that doesn't mean you can't.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Kman]

Tom, let's keep all questions related to this project on this thread, so that questions and answers aren't duplicated, and the history is in one place.

I've never used a leveling system on a ceiling before, but then I avoid tiling a ceiling whenever possible.

I would spend the time it takes to get the ceiling as flat as possible, and make sure you have as near 100% bond between mortar, tile, and ceiling. The flat ceiling will help in keeping the tile flat.

[Tiger Mountain Tile Inc]

Thinset will provide enough suction to hold the tile up but it does take a proper bond and a little faith.

The reusable MLT bases have places where you could screw through them into a ceiling but, obviously, it would be nice if there was something solid to screw into.

I've seen some people apply braces and whatever. I don't do a lot of ceilings but when I have I've just combed the mortar in the same direction and wiggled it in place.

You only have to be worried if you don't have a good bond.

[ss3964spd]

I'd be more concerned about the drywall staying on the ceiling than the tiles staying on the drywall.

What does the ceiling framing look like, Tom? 16" OC? 24" OC? Drywall thickness? Screw spacing?

[tommasden]

we used GoBoard with lots of fasteners. truss 24" on center but added blocking in the 5'8"x3' ceiling.

[tommasden]

So does epoxy solve all these issues VS grout or caulk?

[cx]

Not at all, Tom.

There really is no "issue." The ceramic tile industry standards call for a flexible sealant in the tile surface at any place where the backing material makes a change of plane. That's chiseled in ceramic, as it were, the purpose being to provide movement accommodation.

If you want to deviate from that, that's entirely up to you, but you do so at your own risk and must accept responsibility for any negative results.

And it makes no difference at all what kind of grout you elect to use. Depending upon your individual circumstances, the use of the epoxy grout could make the situation either better or worse.