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Unread 01-15-2021, 01:39 PM   #16
cx
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I hafta agree with Mike on that one. If the wall was open and you ran a fish tape through it, covered the wall, and them pulled the wire through, that would somehow make the use of the device different?

If you have opened the wall for plumbing repair and the plumber manages to damage your wire to the extent that it needs to be spliced, that device would not qualify because the wall is opened?

I'm just not seeing it. Either the device is suitable for use in a concealed space or it's not.

The argument could, of course, be made moot by your local code compliance inspector. His interpretation of the code requirement is the one you'll hafta satisfy in the real world.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-15-2021, 01:49 PM   #17
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It doesn't make a lot of sense to me either, but between that piece that Phil linked to, and all the online chatter I read when I was researching them, I opted out. And I really, really wanted to use them.

The short of it is, if they do not meet code in your location and something bad happens that can be traced back to those, you've got a rather sizeable problem.
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Unread 01-15-2021, 01:51 PM   #18
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That's certainly a consideration, Dan, if they don't meet code. But they do meet code. And after the fire, how is anyone to determine if the splice device was snaked through the wall or if it was installed in an open wall?
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Unread 01-15-2021, 02:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed51133
The article's conclusion:

And the splice can only be concealed when it is part of a NM cable fished behind a wall or floor. The device is never permitted in an open stud space where drywall will later cover it during the finishing phase of a remodel, regardless of the Code cycle.

Does not make sense. It can only be used when finished behind a wall or floor, but never in an open wall that is later finished. So the solution is to finish the wall, then cut it open, make the splice, then close it up....
That part of the summary/conclusion was referring to the 2011 and previous NEC revisions if those are still adopted by the governing jurisdiction. The 2014 revisions and up removed that requirement but reworded it to allow for repairs only but the wall may be opened up to do such repairs. It makes perfect sense to me with the 2014 and up wording.
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Unread 01-15-2021, 03:40 PM   #20
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Talking

I bet you wrote it.
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Unread 01-15-2021, 07:35 PM   #21
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Wow, I can see I sparked a debate (see what I did there).
Thanks for all the replies. A little further to the situation and a possible solution. The pump is 110V verified (great question though, thanks for that). The back side of the shower wall is actually the inside of my hall closet, so I could certainly make an access to the junction box from the other side of the wall. That would be an easy solution I think. The wire comes up through the floor, through the bottom plate of the wall into the stud space. I want to use it because it is already wired as a GFCI and attached to a switch on the other side of the bathroom, so it is quite convenient if I can do it legally.

Hope that context clarifies some of the questions I left open in my original post.

Again, thanks all for reading/commenting.
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Unread 01-15-2021, 08:16 PM   #22
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Mike, we generally try to keep that sort of discussion confined to the Professionals' Hangout so's not to completely derail a visitor's project thread, but, as you see, sometimes it still happens. Sorry about that.
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Unread 01-16-2021, 01:13 AM   #23
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Turn the box to the closet side and just put a blank cover on it.
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Unread 01-16-2021, 01:04 PM   #24
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Regarding the splices, I had the unfortunate opportunity to have to use them when an errant contractor nicked two lines going into finished space. Had to use Tyco standard 2 wire splice and the 3-wire splice. Two wire splice was piece of cake. Three wire was slightly different design and was PITA. IDE have certainly used a box if there was any possible way.

My code authority was fine with their use as repair. Even though both were in a semi open stud bay (how else would you be able to access?). Me thinks the writer was getting wrapped around the axle a bit.

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Ps: agree with plan to add box facing closet other side of wall. Use of the splice is bad idea in this case.

Be sure to use correctly sized wire (12 ga for 20 amp circuit). I’ve seen people use 14 gauge for lights connected to 20 amp circuit but it’s a no no.

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Unread 01-16-2021, 05:15 PM   #25
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Put an outlet with USB in the closet and you could have a secret charging station.
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Unread 01-16-2021, 05:50 PM   #26
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Or just put a 120v duplex receptacle in the closet and plug in as many secret charging stations as your closet will hold. Or see Post #8.
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Unread 01-17-2021, 06:13 AM   #27
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Kerdi-Board to Floor Pan

I have been looking around for this answer and can't come up with it. I am installing Kerdi-board on my stud walls and using a Kerdi floor pan as well for the base of my shower.

Is it best practice to run the board all the way from ceiling to floor and then push the floor pan up to it or have the board run down to the pan and sit on top of the edge of the pan?

My thought is to have the board sit on top of the floor pan, as less chance of water between the pan and wall, but since there will be a kerdi-band at the joint anyway, does it matter?
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Unread 01-17-2021, 06:19 AM   #28
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Either way will work, according to the Schluter high council of N.A.
I’d do the walls first, get them nice and flat, square & plumb. Waterproof accordingly, put a ledger to start up a course or few, then pop the pan in after, water proof & flood test. Tile the pan & curb, then scribe in your last courses of wall tile. Will give you less wear & tear on that sensitive foam crap stuff.
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Unread 01-17-2021, 06:39 AM   #29
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Thanks Cali for that advice. I like that ledger idea a lot - lets me get the walls tiled at least partway without damaging the pan.
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Unread 01-17-2021, 08:00 AM   #30
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No real reason not to tile the walls all of the way (except for the bottom row) before installing the pan.
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