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Unread 12-11-2020, 07:07 PM   #16
diydanny
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Thanks CX.

And thanks a ton SS for the technique info!

Much appreciated.
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Unread 12-11-2020, 11:44 PM   #17
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Dan,

I recently finished a project and used the Ridgid LevelMax anti lippage system... essentially the same as Spin doctor in design. The bases are the same shape too. My advice after using those was at first I did what Dan suggested, cleaning out a little mortar with the spacer/base. It was messy and would still squeeze out of the v notch in the spacer if you didn't clean enough out. What i found to work the absolute best and required no mortar removal was to hold the base at about a 45° angel and slide the the base straight down along the edge of the tile while the forks of the base are making contact with the tile and insert the base/forks directly under the tile body...not the mortar layer. Essentially trying to get the spacer portion of the base against the tile body as soon as possible. This pushes the mortar down and around the base and if done properly, no squeeze out between the base and the tile. Really trying hard not to insert the base right in the meat of the mortar layer as that's what cause the squeeze out. I hope that makes sense
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Unread 12-13-2020, 03:26 PM   #18
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Thanks bigphil!
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Unread 12-20-2020, 11:25 PM   #19
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Here’s some more progress.
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Unread 12-28-2020, 06:21 PM   #20
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Did not realize SLC needs so long to cure before continuing with the project.

Davy, thank you for the info about the yellow grout sponge picking up the dust the best. I was surprised the amount of crap left after sweeping and shop vac’ in.

I replaced 2 buckets of clean water 4 times. That single sponge rocked the whole time and will now be my junk sponge although in pretty good shape still.

Much appreciated.
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Unread 12-30-2020, 07:29 PM   #21
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Continuing the project I mixed redgard as a primer 4 to 1 and fine brushed it into the gypsum based SLC.
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Unread 12-30-2020, 07:48 PM   #22
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And then added 3 full coats of redgard to achieve the manufacturers minimum coverage for crack protection. Had no idea it would take 3 coats. Wish I wore a respirator for the application.

This stuff is easy to use but absolutely stinks up the whole house like no other. Wish the instructions mentioned that it is a strong odor.

Next step is to snap chalk lines for double the width of the tile and grout lines, as I read on here from Davy (I think), in a past thread. Then outline the chalk with a black sharpie.

I picked up some natural stone and large tile premium mortar (Custom Product) to start tiling. What do you guys think of this plan?
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Unread 01-03-2021, 08:17 PM   #23
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After measuring the width of the tiles and double checking my fractions with the grout spacing, the grid is laid out with sharpie lines. Next up is removing the chalk line dust with the buckets/sponge while waiting for the spin doctors to arrive.

Shout out to my wife for helping me with the chalk lines and tracing!
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Unread 01-03-2021, 09:29 PM   #24
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Excellent use of spousal resources, there, Dan. I've always been told that they can be very useful, I just never could afford one.
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Unread 01-03-2021, 10:54 PM   #25
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Haha. Thanks CX

This is wife number 2. The first was extremely cost prohibitive. I guess you can say I’m a gluten for punishment sometimes.

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Unread 01-04-2021, 05:48 PM   #26
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When you're tiling, you'll want to keep a bucket of water handy along with that yellow sponge. I've always liked sponges that are broken in and slightly worn rather than a new one. Even for washing grout, a slightly worn sponge works better than a brand new one.
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Unread 01-14-2021, 11:52 PM   #27
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Davy, I will do that. Appreciated.

Here’s some more progress pics while I’m waiting for contractorsdirect.com to ship part of my two week old order.

I sponge cleaned the floor again with a new sponge so now I have two good sponges (thanks Davy) and installed the perimeter gap with 3/16” foam. Now I’m trying to figure out the center movement joint location after researching here and the available tcna faq section.

Area is approx 550 sq ft with a rectangle(ish) layout.

Do I even need a center line movement joint? If so, would you choose black or yellow?
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Unread 01-15-2021, 09:48 AM   #28
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What are the dimensions of the tile area, Dan?
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Unread 01-15-2021, 12:19 PM   #29
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The largest main area of the tile is approx 25’ long by 15’ wide with an entrance hallway and a couple smaller square rooms off that. Here is a not to scale crude drawing.
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Unread 01-15-2021, 01:47 PM   #30
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If you have no special circumstances, such as much direct sunlight or moisture sources, you technically need to shorten the 33-foot span with at least one movement accommodation joint (maximum 25 feet), but the 21-foot span would be technically OK.

There is certainly no technical objection to using less than the recommended spacing, of course.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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