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Unread 03-28-2002, 09:53 AM   #1
kelsner
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Regretfully, I must ask a plumbing question as seaching the net has proven useless. I now have a LEAD lavatory waste pipe sticking out with a chrome-plated extension soldered to it that forms the back end of the p-trap. I want to replace it to adjust the depth of the connection and it is corroded as well. Does anyone know about soldering copper to lead? Same technique as copper/copper? Can someone direct me to a forum for this kind of info. if there is one? Many thanks.
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Unread 03-28-2002, 04:44 PM   #2
Brian
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John B turned me on to this site, and I've used it as well for my hardcore plumbing questions:

http://www.terrylove.com/

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Unread 03-28-2002, 04:55 PM   #3
John Bridge
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I would not even consider attempting to solder lead to copper. You'll have a "meltdown" for sure. I would cut the whatever off the lead pipe and clamp a new piece of chrome or pvc onto it with a "band-aid."

What's the proper name for a band-aid, Rob?

It's a rubber thing with two hose clamps around it -- fits over the two pieces of pipe and tightens.
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Unread 03-28-2002, 08:06 PM   #4
Tom
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Lead corrodes from electrolysis, and if part is corroded, you'll need to replace the lead back to the cast iron (hopefully) or possibly galvanized fitting. Lead was normally "wiped" with a pot of molten lead to a brass flange which was connected to the main pipe with a lead/okum soldered joint. Cleaned copper which is tinned can be soldered to lead, although the lead should be removed and so should any galvanized pipe behind it if that exists(especially horizontal). Please give more detail as to what is behind that lead. If you cut it with a wood handsaw and attach it to your new copper with a mission fitting, you're looking for trouble in the future.
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Unread 03-28-2002, 08:11 PM   #5
Tom
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In response to your other question, this forum is frequented by a quite a few pro plumbers. While they can sometimes be short, you'll get straight answers.
http://www.masterplumbers.com/home.asp
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Unread 03-28-2002, 11:16 PM   #6
Rob Z
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K

Is that wastepipe really lead? Or is it galvanized pipe?

Have you put a pipe wrench on it to back it out of the T in the wall? If you can back it out, you can thread in a new pipe or fitting and redo things that way.

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Unread 03-28-2002, 11:18 PM   #7
cx
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We refer to it as a diaper, John. More commonly called a Fernco fitting, although that may just be an old brand name. Plumbing house will recognize Fernco (sp?). HD carries them around here.

Depending upon the age of the house, Rob, could well be lead. Was pretty common in the older areas in this part of the country. Up into the 50s at least in San Antonio. Lead into cast iron verticals.
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Unread 03-28-2002, 11:23 PM   #8
Rob Z
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No kidding? I've never seen it in the old casas around here.

Lots of galvanized and DWV copper into cast iron.

Love cutting that stuff out!
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Unread 03-29-2002, 06:58 AM   #9
John Bridge
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Fernco, that's it.

Tom,

Thanks for stopping in and illuminating this subject for us. Hope you'll pop in more often. Just ignore the jokes that are made about plumbers. We're not talking about you and the other literate ones.
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Unread 03-29-2002, 09:44 AM   #10
kelsner
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The waste pipe is definitely lead...can bend it with 1 finger. And it doesnt connect into the cast iron stack that is anywhere near accessible. The lead runs into the wall and back under the mud bed and connects somewhere under there. Maybe I'll just let it ride, as that joint I'm speaking of looks imposing. I'll check the sites you mentioned. Thanks.
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Unread 03-29-2002, 11:15 PM   #11
Tom
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If you have resigned yourself to go with the existing lead, wrap wide masking, or preferably paper shipping tape that you have to moisten around the pipe to give you a straight cutting line. Cut the lead with a rough saw along the tape and use a wood rasp to smooth the end of the lead inside and out. No matter what the brand name, use the rubber coupling with the full stainless steel sleeve. This prevents dry rot and lasts much longer than the thick rubber ones. The stainless clamps put even pressure on the pipe, so tighten them firmly without worrying about collapsing the lead. and suggest that your customer have it done right as soon as possible.
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