new "tract neighborhood" house tile specs
i am shopping around for a house in NC. Hubby has an offer to move back. My friend lives in a Dr. Horton neighborhood. Never been too impressed by the builder, but I like the neighborhood and the schools. I am asking a lot of questions. I asked about the tile work in the floors and showers: Here is what I got back. It looks like the butt the tile to the base molding and do not use anything behind the shower backboard or ontop of it for waterproofing. Since my shower is a kerdi shower, I am not sure if what they are doing for the shower floor is correct? any thoughts? I could always have them use a shower pan and acrylic walls and then do tile later for less money. tile showers are an upgrade:
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1. The thin-set that is used is Versabond with latex. It is used under the backer-board and under the tile.
2. We use Durarock backer-board and the manufacture recommends nailing or screwing the backer-board. Most of the time it is nailed using galvanized roofing nails.
3. The tile is butted to the base molding and then shoe mold is installed over the tile at the base molding. The shoe mold is then caulked to the tile floor. The expansion gap is not really necessary with the tile because of the limited amount of expansion or contraction that would take place with the tile. An expansion gap of approximately 1/8" is left between the base molding and hardwoods to allow the wood to expand and contract as needed.
4. The tile shower would be waterproofed in the following manner:
1. A rubber membrane is installed by the plumber on the floor and tested for water tightness at the time of our rough-in inspection with the Town of Morrisville.
2. The tile installer uses thick bed mortar on top of the membrane to shape the floor of the shower so it will drain.
3. The tile is installed on top of the thick bed mortar using the Versabond.
4. Durarock is installed on the walls. The joints are taped and sealed with thin-set and then the wall tile are installed.
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DC
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