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Unread 10-28-2010, 09:35 AM   #1
msamyn
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Cement Floor Prep and Tiling

I am preparing a cement floor that was tiled previously with ceramic tiles and probably before that vinyl. So there is very hard and dry glue stains on the cement surface. Question is how clean do I need to make this cement substrate? I plan to use ceramic tiles and modified thin set. Any opinions are welcome. – Mike PS Pic of floor attached.
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Unread 10-28-2010, 09:41 AM   #2
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Mike,

Welcome to the forum.

Now that you have one posting under your belt, you can post pictures here by scrolling down and hitting the "manage attachments" button and following along.

Is the cement lumpy? From here it looks like a quick pass with a diamond cup grinder will do the trick to remove the stuff that's left. How old is this house? Will there be concerns of asbestos?
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Unread 10-28-2010, 09:58 AM   #3
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Are those embedded 2x4's on either side of that crusty closet flange?
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Unread 10-28-2010, 11:24 AM   #4
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Sub Floor Prep

Yes - those are embedded. Is that a problem?
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Unread 10-28-2010, 11:26 AM   #5
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While you have a prime opportunity, pop them out and fill it in with cement. They are hold overs from a lazy the plumber back when the house was built
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Unread 10-28-2010, 11:30 AM   #6
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I can certianly do that. But what about the bard mastic stains that are stuck on the floor - can I safely use thin set over it as was done by the previous tiler?
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Unread 10-28-2010, 11:33 AM   #7
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Just for kicks and giggles I'd run over it with a diamond cup grinder. Get the surface nice and smooth while taking off any of that yellow stuff, praying it isn't asbestos. That operation will take maybe 30 minutes for a non-Texas sized bathroom. Have someone hold the shop vac for you (with new filter) as you work the grinder.
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Unread 10-28-2010, 11:38 AM   #8
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Thanks!
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Unread 11-05-2010, 01:21 PM   #9
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Schluter-KERDI-SEAL

Gotta a question about what to do. I have bought the Schluter-Kerdi shower kit that included a 4" round seal for the mixing valve. Well I am using a Delta rough valve that has a 4" square rough in flange. The valve when fully installed will of course be round but only above the tile surface.

I can remove the plastic 4" square rough opening flange and round out the dry wall opening to accept the Kedi-seal. Or I can try to seal up the square opening with Kerdi and then reinstall the plactic flange. Included are a few pictures to give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

Any advice is helpful.
Thanks,
Mike
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File Type: pdf Rough-Opening-WithFlange.pdf (466.0 KB, 123 views)
File Type: pdf Rough-Opening-NoFlange.pdf (484.0 KB, 125 views)
File Type: pdf Kedi_Seal-DryFit-SqHole.pdf (597.8 KB, 145 views)
File Type: pdf Delta_Finish_Cover_DryFit.pdf (482.0 KB, 159 views)
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Unread 11-05-2010, 02:22 PM   #10
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Mike,

Skip the round Kerdi-Seal, do it all w/ close-cropped Kerdi, and seal that well - just like the K-Seal is trying to do - using Kerdi-Fix.
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Unread 11-05-2010, 03:43 PM   #11
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Mike,

We don't need no steenken kerdi seals. We get the kerdi and tile as close to the valve body as possible, allowing for the screws and adjustments, then silicone the valve body to the kerdi and tile.
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