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Unread 02-01-2014, 08:03 AM   #1
Hammy
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A bad crack isolation method

This found in FineHomeBuilding. Silicone caulk for crack isolation.

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-...oor-tiles.aspx

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Unread 02-01-2014, 08:06 AM   #2
MNTileGuy
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But, hey, he's done it for all those years without failure!

It's a shame that a "reputable" magazine like Fine Homebuilding would have an article like that. That's about right on par with rolling out duct tape.
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Unread 02-01-2014, 08:33 AM   #3
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That must be some amazing caulk !!
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Unread 02-01-2014, 08:41 AM   #4
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Tom Meehan, call your office.
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Unread 02-01-2014, 08:47 AM   #5
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If we're just trying to keep the tiles from bonding in that area, I'm wondering why we'd bother with the mesh tape. Just as easy to eliminate the silicone, too, and simply not apply bonding mortar in that area if his "system" had merit.
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Unread 02-01-2014, 09:33 AM   #6
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Why do you bring up Tom Meehan? He had nothing to do with this. I actually invented that method.
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Unread 02-01-2014, 09:58 AM   #7
HS345
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I was just kidding, I figured Tom could set 'em straight.
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Unread 02-01-2014, 11:25 AM   #8
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STANDARDS?, We don't need no stinking standards! I've never had a callback! Yes I do screen my calls, change phones regularly, and move frequently!, but not one complaint have I heard!
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Unread 02-01-2014, 11:31 AM   #9
jwmezzanotte
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The mesh tape ties the two slabs together so they dont move. Its better than reinforcing steel.
The tile will also help hold the two sides together. Common sense.
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Unread 02-01-2014, 12:21 PM   #10
dhagin
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Think John forgot the [sarcasm] [/sarcasm] tags.


ps, anyone surprised this came outa florida?
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Unread 02-01-2014, 02:31 PM   #11
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Unread 02-01-2014, 05:34 PM   #12
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Here's another inexpensive tip that's in league with this one:
If you find that you have a squeaky subfloor simply spray WD-40 on the back of the tile before installing. PRESTO!
Do you think I can get that tip published in Fine Home Building magazine?
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Unread 02-01-2014, 09:16 PM   #13
HS345
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I don't see why not Jim. They kin put yours right next to the silly-cone anti-fracking membrain article.
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Unread 02-01-2014, 09:49 PM   #14
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Since they are basically a carpentry magazine I should submit the following and see how they would appreciate ignoring common sense on a subject they are experts in-

Preventing Upper Cabinet Failures.

"My grandfather was a carpenter from the old country who once told me that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, especially when confronted with the risk of installing upper cabinets to drywall.

There are numerous commercial products available that allow carpenters to install upper cabinets to stud walls. These industry approved fastening systems also known as screws require careful drilling, location of the studs or blocking and use of expensive power tools. Although these systems do effectively attach the cabinets to the wall they can be costly to do and and require skill on the part of the carpenter.

Over the years, I have found that the simplest, least expensive and most effective method of attaching upper cabinets to drywall at the job site is to use a few globs of construction adhesive like Liquid Nails but on high end jobs I recommend upgrading to PL. Just spread carefully the adhesive on the back of the cabinet, squish into the drywall and brace until the adhesive cures.

I've used this quick, inexpensive method successfully on uppers cabinets without failure. At least until the homeowner filled the cabinets with dishes."

The ironic thing is that even an approved crack isolation membrane 4" wide is not doing anything. The only reason he hasn't had a failure is because those cracks didn't move. Doing absolutely nothing would have been just as good or better than this method.

I hope one of our experts from the NTCA will contact Fine Homebuilding and their comments on the subject will be printed.
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Unread 02-01-2014, 10:10 PM   #15
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Isaac

That stuff is pretty expensive and overkill. Whats wrong with hot glue?
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