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Unread 07-02-2009, 08:02 AM   #16
Edthedawg
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Question Blue skies?



Architect friend likes the theoretical plan (plastic sheeting and 1/4" Hardi screwed right over the existing Durock, following a little more cleanup of the TEC).

I threw together an all-too-crude sketch of what I envision the resultant finish wall system to be.

Would enjoy your thoughts - thanks!
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Unread 07-02-2009, 09:42 PM   #17
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That'll work, and look good. I'd use urethane caulk at 1st bead and 100% silicone at tile/tub.

Phenoseal is, I believe, latex and not the best for wet areas.

For big gaps- make sure the specific caulk can be used. The label should tell you. Also, use a foam backer rod in the gap first and caulk over it. Width:depth = 2:1, max.
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Last edited by dhagin; 07-02-2009 at 09:45 PM. Reason: add big gaps....
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Unread 07-03-2009, 08:12 AM   #18
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caulk selection

Dana,

Thanks for the feedback! I was kinda wondering about the Phenoseal myself, as I've seen it misbehave w/ some standing water issues, while do well in occasional wet areas, like around sinks and vanity backsplashes.

I've also had 100% silicones fail after a couple years, and needless to say, this isn't really an area I look fwd to having to dig out and re-caulk anytime soon...

Will continue to do my homework tho - thanks again!
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Unread 07-03-2009, 08:16 AM   #19
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IF there is plastic behind the existing backer board, then you install more plastic then 1/4" BB. you are potentially creating a what is know as a moisture sandwich. IF you insist on creating such a sandwich just use a liquid membrane over the existing BB you already have. Neither option is a perfect world and neither are industry standard. and ARE NOT RECOMMENDED.

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Unread 07-03-2009, 10:33 AM   #20
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moisture sandwich

so are there some options like cutting or hole-drilling some large openings thru the existing walls (behind the new plastic sheeting & BB) to ventilate those spaces?

thanks - this is exactly the kind of thing i was concerned about...
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Unread 07-04-2009, 07:39 AM   #21
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You could take down the existing board and start over. Opps, you didnt want to hear that again. Hammy

PS this can be done with a little fore-thought and not damage the tub. Not much different than installing new board after tub was installed. Cut a piece of plywood same size as tub. put carpet on top of tub edges, lay plywood on carpet and go to work. Just do it right this time.
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Unread 07-04-2009, 04:37 PM   #22
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Good catch on the 2 layer of plastic, Hammy. I agree that this could be problems and that drilling a series of small holes could help alleviate the so-called moisture sandwich issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed
I've also had 100% silicones fail after a couple years, and needless to say, this isn't really an area I look fwd to having to dig out and re-caulk anytime soon...
Properly prepared and placed 100% silicone, used on materials it was designed for should not fail 'after a couple years'. IMHO, there were likely other problems that caused the silicone to fail.
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