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Unread 03-24-2021, 06:11 AM   #16
ss3964spd
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I haven't used that blade personally, Russ, but any high quality blade intended for porcelain should do the trick.

The saw, and blade alignment also plays a role. Too much arbor run out, or a blade that isn't square and/or parallel to the table can also cause problems. Best to install your blade and make any adjustments necessary to the extent that your saw allows.
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Unread 03-24-2021, 07:09 AM   #17
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Pearl P4 is a great blade
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Unread 03-24-2021, 02:55 PM   #18
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Thank you James, I was just checking to see if it was still considered one of the better selections nowadays. My saw isn't too of the line or anything (Rigid 7") but I figure I should eliminate any variables where possible.

Do you by chance have any input on terminating a Rondec profile into an adjoining wall at 45 degrees? ( Corner bench seat edge to wall application)
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Unread 03-24-2021, 03:02 PM   #19
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Thumbs up

I just noticed your response also Dan. My saw seems fairly tight and I'll adjust the slide top/fence once I install my blade. It's not top of the line but I'm not laying 1000sq/ft or anything. Maybe 400 total across two showers.

Most complex cuts may be some mitered corners at my wife's bench and I'll see how it goes. I can't remember off hand what y'all call a miter that retains a sixteenth or so of the factory edge, but that is my intention if my equipment is up to par.

Thank you both for your help and assistance.
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Unread 03-24-2021, 09:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Current question is regarding schluter trims, specifically Rondec on the seat edge of a framed corner bench. I intend to use Quadec to frame a niche, Jolly or Schiene ( I get the application confused) for wall and outside corner edges, and Rondec for the seat edge. Quadec is pretty foolproof with it's corner pieces, but how to I cleanly terminate the Rondec at the walls where the bench edge intersects?

Would a 45 degree miter, cope the wall tile to accept the profile and leave room for some Color-sil to seal at the change of plane be best? I imagine it's installer choice but that is the cleanest option I can think of rather than butting the miter to tile face or forcing it to meet in a grout line.
I'm not 100% sure I understand your question. This is a corner bench? Like a 45 degree or so using Rondec as the edge trim between the horizontal tle of the bench seat itself and the face of the bench? If so, yes, miter it the same angles as the corresponding tile on each end and leave it short on both ends the same as the grout lines and grout the gaps same as the tile.

The photo example is with a 90 degree bench but the concept is the same. But to make it really work, set the wall tiles first so that grout line keeps the same plane vertically and horizontally.

ON EDIT: I can see that if you set your bench tiles (top and face) first, this would be much harder to pull off.
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Unread 03-25-2021, 09:50 AM   #21
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Thank you very much. It is a corner bench and the profile would be on the seat edge at the vertical face of the bench. You answered exactly what I couldn't explain clearly....hahaha
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Unread 03-27-2021, 08:52 AM   #22
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I'm curious about preferred methods of cutting wall tile for a corner bench. The bench if framed into the corner with the front face at 45 degrees to the two walls.

Would two 22.5 degree cuts be better than a 45 degree cut (on either the wall or bench) and a 90 degree edge on the other? My lack of experience has me curious if there are pros or cons to one or the other. Or am I just trying to reinvent the wheel here and just keep it simple?
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Unread 03-28-2021, 02:32 PM   #23
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Russ, I would miter the wall tiles and bench face tiles to 45*, instralling the wall tiles first. In my opinion, you will get the best grout/caulking lines doing it that way. I think trying to do 22.5* on everything in the end is much more difficult and the results would not be significantly different.

Your Schluter edging on the edge of the bench would be cut the same length as the bench face tiles, end to end.

I'm sure there are other ways to attack this but IMHO this is simple and will look great.
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Unread 03-28-2021, 04:50 PM   #24
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Ahhh, much appreciated. That helps me a ton. Trying to have a vision of things without trying first is a product of being as inexperienced as I am. I didn't think of opposing 45s like that. I was actually thinking of butting the 45 and 90 together but I like that detail better. Thank you Snets.
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Unread 03-28-2021, 05:14 PM   #25
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Is it normal to be nervous during a flood test? Haha

This is new ground for me. I trust the Noble membrane but I don't know where I fall on the curve yet as the installer! lol
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Unread 03-28-2021, 06:32 PM   #26
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Yes, but don't loose sleep over it. I had a leak on my first test, found it, fixed it and still leak-free over 12 years later. Best to find a leak now for sure.
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Unread 04-02-2021, 08:39 AM   #27
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Thinset in buckets or pan

My flood test was a success, not a measurable drop lost in 24hrs. I have a question on effeciency.....

I've been mixing and working out of buckets to set my tile and I either have bad technique or the wrong tools. Should I be working out of buckets and should I be able to cleany load up my trowel from the bucket. I would be cleaner off a hawk I bet. I have to use a margin trowel to load my trowel without a mess.

Any tips or suggestions?
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Unread 04-06-2021, 12:33 PM   #28
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Question that is a little off topic yet still relevant to current project. I had originally planned on transitioning my floor to wall in an arc...think very dramatic coving. Not knowing the little bit I know now which is a ton more than a month or two ago, it was abandoned.

I understand it pretty much dictates my tile format/size based on the size of the transition but is my current approach correct for next project?

Surface membrane applied with conventional methods( plumb walls and standard sloped bed) and then dry pack the transition from pan to wall? Perhaps thinset first as you would on concrete to promote a solid bond?

Also, does anybody have any noobie tips for loading my trowels from buckets with thinset. My previous post got lost in the shuffle.

Thank you everyone, pros and DIYers alike...I've learned a ton from all.
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Unread 04-06-2021, 01:51 PM   #29
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Surface membrane applied with conventional methods( plumb walls and standard sloped bed) and then dry pack the transition from pan to wall? Perhaps thinset first as you would on concrete to promote a solid bond?
Don't think I understand the question. This is for a shower receptor using a direct bonded waterproofing membrane, perhaps? If so, a "standard sloped bed" would be made using deck-mud or similar mortar and I don't know what transition you might want to do between floor and wall.

There is a "bucket trowel" that can be used to transfer thinset mortar from the bucket to the floor or to your notched trowel.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-06-2021, 10:05 PM   #30
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Russ,

I'm no pro but I keep a margin trowel in every 5 gal bucket of thinset mortar. I use it to scoop mortar, clean the edge of the bucket, clean my notched trowel when it gets messy, load my notched trowel sometimes, load the back of a tile for a clean notched trowel, etc. It's kind of the method that works for me to keep me flowing. Try that.
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