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Unread 04-29-2020, 06:50 AM   #226
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Thanks Dan. The water idea sounds good.
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Unread 04-30-2020, 09:20 AM   #227
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I called Custom Building Products to ask about what proportions to make the primer mix of Redgard + water because I wasn't sure of the proportions.

The guy told me they no longer recommend that for Hardiebacker and that I should use MBP (Multi-Surface Bonding Primer) as the primer instead.

I've never heard of this product. Are they just trying to make money by pushing a product that is unnecessary? Has anyone here used it? Any advantage over the water/Redgard mix?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-B...MBP1/205486856
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Unread 04-30-2020, 10:45 AM   #228
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John,

We always defer to the manufacturer's instructions. Yes, sometimes it can look like they are trying to sell more product, or justify the paychecks to the guys in R&D, but regardless we are bound by the manufacturer's instructions as they reign supreme in court and in our industry.

Now some folks will say "I've done that for 30 years..."
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Unread 05-13-2020, 04:08 AM   #229
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Thanks Houston. I ended up buying a countersink bit and using the screws.

I have to say I'm not thrilled with the Hardiebacker product so far, it has a lot of quirks that James Hardie doesn't bother to address in their instructions. And I've also found several boards with defects -- bowed, or big lumps on the surface.
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Unread 11-28-2020, 05:18 PM   #230
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hi I'm back..the project went on hold again because I was selling another property due to COVID and had to do repairs on that one.

I am getting ready to apply the alkali resistant mesh tape to the joints of the hardiebacker.

I am confused because I have watched several videos where guys will just adhere the tape directly on the hardiebacker and then put thinset on top of the tape. Are you supposed to do it that way, or do you first create a bed of thinset on the joints (like you do on drywall with joint compound) and then place the mesh tape on top of that bed, and then smooth another coat of thinset on top of the tape? Thanks.
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Unread 11-28-2020, 08:34 PM   #231
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Lots of videos out there that are using the wrong technique. You should be bedding the tape
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Unread 11-29-2020, 10:10 AM   #232
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OK I will bed it.
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Unread 11-30-2020, 10:09 PM   #233
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I am going to be applying the redgard soon, probably this week. I did read about putting a band of six inch fiberglass mesh tape at all change of planes after the first coat of RG, and them putting the second coat over this mesh.

However I checked and it is not available in local stores, only online, which I would have to wait for and it would further delay my project, and it seems to be expensive for what little you get.

Worse, there are complaints in online reviews that this fiberglass product creates a buildup at the corners that make it hard to tile over.

Is this really necessary? I don't understand the point of it since there will already be the two inch fibatape under the thinset, and there are people online that say you do not need to add this second layer of six inch tape. It just seems like a dumb idea.
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Unread 11-30-2020, 10:31 PM   #234
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John, the "two inch fibatape" used with thinset mortar to finish the joints in your CBU installation are to benefit the CBU installation as prescribed by the manufacturer. That is done regardless whether there is going to be a direct bonded waterproofing membrane used on the face of the CBU.

The application of a direct bonded waterproofing membrane has nothing at all to do with the installation of the wallboard unless it is a sheet-type membrane installed using thinset mortar and can take the place of the alkali-resistant mesh tape prescribed by the manufacturer.

A liquid-applied direct bonded waterproofing membrane needs to be installed per that manufacturer's instructions without regard to installation instructions for the wallboard. If the membrane manufacturer requires a fabric be used for the installation of his product, you use a fabric. If the use of a fabric is listed as optional by the manufacturer, then it's entirely up to you.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-30-2020, 10:36 PM   #235
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What is the rationale for six inch tape, instead of 2 inch tape that is actually available and able to find? I'm assuming it's just another way for them to get people to spend extra money on product.
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Unread 12-01-2020, 08:21 AM   #236
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If I use this product, how do I deal with the humps that are created by when it is put in? The CBU will be unlevel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iEe_eraFWWs
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Unread 12-01-2020, 10:00 AM   #237
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Never mind -- I called Custom Building Products and they said not to use that fiberglass mesh tape at the change of plane. They said the reason the stores don't carry the six inch is because no one uses it in their installations.
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Unread 12-07-2020, 10:32 AM   #238
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I called Custom again...this time about Redgard thickness because something on the bucket instructions was confusing...and he said to apply 40 mils wet? I thought I'd read here and elsewhere that 93 mils wet is the goal?

Is it better to just forget measuring mils and use the 55 square feet per gallon as your way of measuring? I was thinking about it and there's no way you're going to be able to test every area of the wall with the film gauge to see if it meets the "mills" thickness.

Thanks.
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Unread 12-07-2020, 02:58 PM   #239
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John, Custom says they ceased publishing the required thickness of the RedGard application because it was "confusing" and changed to the square feet per gallon method because it was less confusing. My personal opinion is that they were concerned that people would get frustrated trying to meet the requirement using the specified application method. Applying a 30 or 40 wet mil coat of that material with a 3/8ths" nap roller is borderline impossible and they know that.

As I recall, they wanted a final covering of 30 to 40 dry mils of the product, which meant two coats of 30 to 40 wet mils each. Not an easy thing to accomplish. I don't know what you end up with using their current feet-per-gallon measurement, but I feel sure it's less than the previous requirement. We (TYW) did the math once, but I honestly don't recall what we determined.

For walls, I don't doubt that the waterproofing is adequate if the material is applied very consistently, but for a shower receptor I think it would not. And I'd not recommend it for a receptor under any circumstance, but it's approved for that application.

And they don't stock the recommended reinforcing fabric because nobody uses it? I'm afraid I find that a bit specious. And if what you're told on the phone differs from their written instructions I'd be concerned.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-07-2020, 08:00 PM   #240
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Thanks CX for the detailed explanation.

They did claim (on the phone) that the stores like HD do not carry the 6 inch mesh fabric because there is no demand for it. However I've decided to use it at the changes of plane because the gap is bigger than 1/8 there. I ordered the product online.

It seems with Custom you get a different answer depending on whom you speak to when you call. They told me a few months ago that they were recommending people use MBP for the primer now (instead of the redgard/water mix). Now the person I just spoke to said to use redgard/water again?

Not impressed with this company at all so far. If I had it to do over again I would have opted for the felt that goes behind the backer board. But now it's too late for that.

Maybe doing 3 coats of RG instead of 2 is a good idea to be safe.

Anyway thanks for the help.
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