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Unread 11-04-2010, 01:54 PM   #16
staceyneil
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Thanks Ed & Bob! I ordered 1/2" Advantech. It's not T&G at that thickness. Will follow your advice re: spacing, and no glue..... thank you!
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Unread 11-04-2010, 02:14 PM   #17
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I'm a big fan of Advantech but it is OSB. Just verify with your SLC mfr that they're OK w/ priming / pouring over OSB. The resins in the OSB can have an adverse reaction in some cases. Better to find out now than later.
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Unread 11-05-2010, 05:32 AM   #18
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Thanks for the heads up on the Advantech... I called and switched that 1/2" top layer to 1/2" fir underlayment plywood. The "normal" stuff, according to the lumberyard guy. Hope that's the right one!
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Unread 11-05-2010, 06:34 AM   #19
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I'd definitely check. When I buy "the normal stuff" in 1/2" plywood, it's almost always CDX fir sheathing (for roofing) which is TOTALLY unacceptable for tile work. Way too low-grade wood, too many knots and voids. Better to call and confirm you're not getting CDX now. You want BC, which is what we'd consider "baseline" underlayment for tile work. No face grade lower than "C".
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Unread 11-06-2010, 05:51 AM   #20
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Uh-oh, Ed.... it was delivered yesterday. The invoice just says, "1/2" U.L." (Underlayment). Think that is OK? It doesn't LOOK horribly knotty on the surface at all... what should I be looking for? Hate to have to wait till Monday to proceed!
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Unread 11-06-2010, 05:56 AM   #21
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Well, on line I found lots of lumberyards listing the types of plywood they carry, and they list CDX sheathing and underlayment separately, like this:
* CDX Sheathing
* Exterior Fir Underlayment
* AC Fir Plywood (4x8, 4x10, 5x9)
* Lauan Sanded Plywood
* Pressure-Treated Plywood
* AB Marine Fir Plywood
So, I'm thinking that probably means I'm OK (I asked the lumberyard for "exterior-grade plywood to use in a subfloor", and he said, "oh you want the fir. That's what's been used for subfloors for years...")----- but if there's some way to tell by looking at the sheet, let me know!
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Unread 11-06-2010, 08:24 AM   #22
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Stacy,

You can easily tell by looking for the label printed on the sheet. You may have to flip a piece over.

* CDX Sheathing - Usually has voids in it which you can see. Lots of eye shaped plugs, lots of areas filled in with some yellow plastic looking goop
* Exterior Fir Underlayment - Smells like fir, a little more reddish than pine and tighter grained.
* AC Fir Plywood (4x8, 4x10, 5x9) A grade ply is very pretty; knot and blemish free. You'd be happy to make cabinets from A plywood
* Lauan Sanded Plywood - the tissue paper of the plywood world. Usually mahogony red, very soft, smells like a pencil
* Pressure-Treated Plywood- usually green in color, not very flat
* AB Marine Fir Plywood - green in color, not very flat, thicker than the one above
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Unread 12-03-2010, 01:21 PM   #23
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Tile layout conundrum? Would love to hear from the pros!

Hi everyone,

I have a tile layout conundrum... I'm tiling around a bathtub/shower and halfway up the walls all the way around my small bathroom. I am using American Olean Ice White 4.25" x 4.25" field tiles in a running bond, with matching 2 x 6 bullnose along the top/side edges. Simple and clean...

I carefully designed my tile layout and niches assuming I would start with a full tile at the rim of the tub. The niches are all built, CBU's and Waterproofed (by the way, I looooove laticrete Hydroban!). I wanted to start laying tile tomorrow.

BUT! I just realized that, continuing the pattern outside the tub area, there will be a 5/8" to 1" sliver all along the bottom of the wall!!! Is that going to just look like crap? Argh!

There's no matching A.O. sanitary cove, but should I look for a "close enough" match of some type of trim piece for along the bottom? OR- should I change the layout to start with a full tile along the floor edge (at it's lowest point... it slants!), which would leave a partial tile at the rim of the tub?

What would you guys do???
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Unread 12-03-2010, 01:25 PM   #24
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Hi Stacey,

You could use bullnose. Consider installing it on the face of the field tile at the floor. Although it is only 2" and that's kinds skinny....I'd tape some tile to the wall as a little mock-up and see what it looks like in your particular room.

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Unread 12-03-2010, 01:37 PM   #25
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Oh, you mean install the 2 x 6 bullnose right on top of the field tile all along the bottom? So it's two tiles thick? Will the thinset stick okay to the glazed tile? That's a reasonable idea.....

I have been looking at photos and trying to figure out what to do. If I start the field tile at the floor, then I'll have to cut that 3/4" or so off the bottom row around the tub. Won't a cut edge along the tub lip really stand out and look cruddy? My tiles aren't super flat... they have a bit of molded return along the edges, so a cut edge will definitely look different than a factory edge...
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Unread 12-03-2010, 01:52 PM   #26
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Oh, wait....HOLD THE BOAT!

From you last statement, I deduce you were intending on using a full tile at the top of the tub. Not a good idea. Not many tubs have a straight top "shoulder" to them...and rarely are tubs installed level. If you were to start with a full row on top of the tub...you'd probably get into trouble real fast if the tub sloped downward as you attempted to install your tiles perfectly level...that would result in a gap larger than you want and it would look a bit like a sore thumb. The rule of thumb is that the very highest starting point for a full row of tile is the very lowest point around the top of the tub. Use a level and find out the lowest point around the top of the tub so you avoid a problem of a big gap. Definitely plan on cutting at least something off the bottom row of tile to match the contour of the tub.

As far as the layout and what would look best, you need to have all things considered to have the "best" layout. It's a bit subjective, but where do the grout joints meet: The tub, floor, niche, ceiling, height of any possible row of listellos, etc. Because there's more to consider than what you've told us, it's hard to get more specific than I already have. If you want to give us a drawing with all the heights, we could dial you in with more precise measurements/starting points, but you may be okay with your new bit of knowledge and not need that. Let us know, as we love to help.

Oh, by the way....In my last post, I did mean to install the bullnose over the other tile like you described (yes, a good unmodified thinset will stick to the face of the shiny tiles).
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Unread 12-03-2010, 02:01 PM   #27
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Just to add on to what Tool Guy said - it doesn't look bad to have cut tiles along the edge of the tub. I generally vertically center all my tub/showers so I have the same size cut on the top and bottom. As long as you have more than 1/2 of a full tile there it will look fine
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Unread 12-03-2010, 02:04 PM   #28
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Thank you! Well- we installed the tub and it actually is level to within 1/8" (I was a major PITA to my husband until we got it exactly right ).... but still, you think a cut edge there is the way to go? That would solve the wall issue. I would then, I assume, find the lowest point in the floor across the whole room, and use that as my starting point, shaving off the other tiles in the first row as the floor slopes upward... which would mean cutting off about 3/4" along the bottom row of the tub tiles. But it would also throw off my niches. Argh! Maybe not totally, though, I can maybe salvage it. I am going to get out the laser level in the morning and see how bad it would be...
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Unread 12-03-2010, 02:05 PM   #29
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You are on the right track.

Maybe get creative with that niche...there's always a solution. Even a different tile? I dunno if you're looking for the "old time" 4x4 tile look? 4x4s have gone away, other than the folks looking for that specific traditional look. Absolutely nothing wrong with the tile, just commenting on the way time changes styles.

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Unread 12-03-2010, 02:14 PM   #30
Levi the Tile Guy
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Stacy,

Another thing to keep in mind is with those 4 1/4's your layout won't fall on exactly 1/4" measurements. They have little bumps on the edges so that when you set them it gives them a small grout joint. This will throw your layout off by about 1/16" per tile. So every 4 tiles your layout will grow 1/4". Does that make any since?
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