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Unread 08-17-2021, 11:08 AM   #61
fabian55
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Thanks CX, appreciate your reply..
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Unread 08-21-2021, 01:28 PM   #62
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Hi, I had this issue a few weeks back, tried to fix it but seems it did not work. On my previous thread after the floor mud, I mentioned there was a low spot toward the top left side of the floor due to the way I did the floor mud, an area of about 12 x 12 so 1 Sqf.

To fill the low spot, I purchased "Large Tile & Stone Mortar" since it gives you the ability to do a little thicker layer. After about a week, I noticed a few cracks in the area, when I would tap it, it sounded hollow. Someone told me that maybe I used too much water when I mixed it and could be the reason. ( Might be true as I did put a bit extra water to make it easier to work with )

So I chipped out that 12 x 12 round area, mixed the thinset again but with not as much water, so thinnset would be a little thicker. Now I see another crack again in the same area, not as much as before and it sounds hollow again.

If I step there, nothing moves or is loose, I will be putting redgard and then another layer of thiset for the tiles which will be 12 x 24.

I can leave it that way but not sure if it will hold, it might since I will be adding the tile thinkset layer above it and its not loose now.

Or

Can I chip out that small area again and add about 1' of floor mud and thinset a small layer on top ( I would also add thin layer of thinset before floor mud so it will bond )

I can not tear out the floor and redo, I would have to fix it as mentioned above or leave it how it is and hope for the best, or is there a different product I can add in the hole?

Thank You
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Unread 08-25-2021, 07:37 AM   #63
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That the patch sound hollow would concern me, Fabian.

Since this is for the shower floor, and you intend to water proof it with RedGard, you might consider removing the patch and, instead of thinset mortar, use a self leveling compound. Be sure to select one appropriate for the depth you need to fill.
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Unread 08-27-2021, 08:31 AM   #64
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Hi ss3964spd, thank you for your reply, I really appreciate it. So that I don't have to redo this again, can you please advise on the below.

When you say "self leveling compound", do you mean because its easier to use and spread? I read a bit and most of them have a max thickness of 1.5', I think mine is around 1.75-2' thick

Based on my research, I think the issue is that the thinset on that part did not bond to the floor mud below, the other parts around it which I added at the same time did bond and there is no hollow sound.

Can I use any of these on the images? "Concrete, Floor Mud, Cement" etc.? I would chip the hole again, sand it inside a bit, use a paint brush and coat it with thinkset so it bonds with the floor mud below / existing thinset and smooth it out to be level with current floor. I would then NOT add another layer of thinset on top since its already level and just coat it with redgard.

Thank You Much..
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Unread 08-27-2021, 08:45 AM   #65
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Fabian, you do not wanna use either of those products anywhere in your shower construction.

If you'll go to the Shower Construction thread in our Liberry you'll find various mixes to create deck mud, which is what you appear to be trying to use.

Trying to patch what you've got is still the wrong approach (see post #50) and starting over would give you a much better job, but you can do whatever you like, of course.

For patching, you'd likely do better using one of the many, many cementitious patching compounds on the market. Every manufacturer of tile setting materials makes at least one and there are others available at your local home center.

What you want to end up with is a solid, very flat, very well sloped (minimum 1/4" per horizontal foot) floor. Lotta ways to get there, deck mud being the simplest and easiest.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-27-2021, 09:24 AM   #66
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Thank You CX, so to do it the easiest way as you mentioned, I can chip out the hole, add modified thinset with brush for bonding and just add Floor mud to the hole till its level with the other floor around it ( with the slope of course )? Is that correct?
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Unread 08-27-2021, 11:28 AM   #67
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That might work, but I don't know how deep your patch is to be. Nor do I know whether your existing floor is worth patching.

If you decide to patch what you've got, one of the patching compounds might work better than deck mud. If the hole is deep enough, 3/4" or so, the deck mud might be a useful choice.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-27-2021, 12:07 PM   #68
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Thank you CX, the hole seemed to be about 1.5-1.75' from last time I fixed, so I'll go with the Deck Mud. I read a bit and patching compound would be for a thinner coat.

Hopefully this will fix and is a lesson for my second bathroom.

Thank You All...
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Unread 09-07-2021, 04:24 PM   #69
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Good Day everyone, just a small technical question to avoid a mistake.

Sorry for bad paint on image..lol..

I'm getting to the Niche of the shower, I would like to make the uniting tile one piece, if Im not mistaken, the base piece of the niche should be below the vertical tile at a slight tilt forward correct, so that when water gets thru the grout, it hits tile below and drips forward? If so, when I cut the uniting tile inwards towards the back of the niche, the bottom of the uniting tile should have a slight angle for the base tilt, meaning, it can't be straight cut since base niche tile will be tilted a bit?

Also, the base tile of the niche should have a small cut on the uniting tile so that it can move forward and unite with the other tile coming up from the same wall its on for the Niche trim etc?

Thank You much
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Unread 09-07-2021, 05:39 PM   #70
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Well, I can't say I've ever heard of a "uniting" tile, Fabian, but it appears your assumptions are mostly correct. However, it's the waterproofing surface of your niche bottom that needs to be sloped to drain, not just the tile.

As for tiling the niche, you can do that in any order you like. I generally tile the back first, then the top and bottom, then the sides, but it matters not at all. In your case, if you were to install the side wall tile (the uniting one?) first, you would not need to worry about cutting the slope as that would be hidden behind the end of the bottom tile. But you could install the bottom tile first and cut the wall tile to fit if you prefer.

'Fraid I don't understand the question about the "base tile.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-07-2021, 06:03 PM   #71
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Thanks CX, I see, okay, so I'll do the side wall first so I don't have to worry about the cut and it will be hidden anyways, plus the bottom piece of the Niche can meet with other tile for the trim without having to do a minor cut..

I know, uniting and base tile sounded weird, just needed words that would explain the pictures better..


Thank You again, always appreciated
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