Do I Use Something Else Rather Then Panliner In This Case?

[fabian55]

Okay, so I read the instructions of RG and seems it does bond directly to the metal and my mistake would be as you guys mentioned, using it as an adhesive with the fabric membrane as RG should not be used as adhesive.

I'm adding the fabric as an additional layer of protection but might not be good direct with RG, the more correct way would be using the Modified thinset as the Adhesive with the fabric and then RG over it...

[ss3964spd]

Fabian,

Not that I've tried but I'm almost certain no mortar is going to adhere to that stainless steel flange in any lasting way. Nor do I think RG will.

Aside from the adhesion of the mortar to the SS, the steel is going to go through an expansion and contraction cycle every time that shower is used, and that cycling may well be enough to break whatever tenuous bond might exist.

RG would be better in that regard, as it can stretch a bit. But I just don't think it will stick well enough to the SS. You could test it, I suppose, by cleaning the inside of the drain assembly then brushing on a coat of RG. Let it dry, then see how easy it peals off.

If I were trying this with that drain assembly I'd probably use a seriously sticky and water proof adhesive like Kerdi Fix.

[fabian55]

ss3964spd, Thank You, that really helps, so I can put the fabric membrane, I just need to use a special adhesive as you mentioned and not RG or Mortar..

Really appreciate the clarification..

[fabian55]

Hello, recovered from my knee damages while doing the floor mud and back at it again. Replaced the shower valve and added the layer of thinset to level out some low spots.

But I have an issue now that I see the floor with the thinset. Based on the picture, the right side where the level is, slopes and is even to the drain, from the left of that, the floor slopes toward the left wall instead down to the drain. If you see the top right of floor, its slopes left and downwards and is not level.

How can i fix this? I can not tear the floor out and redo, will any of these options work?

1: Pour floor leveling concrete to fill in slope toward the wall. If this works, will it grab on to the thinset I just added if the thinset is already dry or do I need another thin layer for the new concrete. Will the concrete crack or is it hard enough like the floor mud?

2: I don't pour the concrete and when I start tiling, from left to right, I add more thinset to the floor and the back and less toward the right side till its level..My only concern with this method is the water that gets thru the tile would slope towards the left wall and just sit there. I do already have a layer of thinset so not sure if it would be too much thinset and will crack

3: Add more thinset now on top of this layer to level it out before waterproofing instead of leveling while tiling. This one seems best but thinset layer would be thick, not sure if it would crack due to thickness.

My shower is on a concrete slab so Im not concerned about leaking down, just concerned about Mold, water sitting against the wall etc...

Thank You much..

[cx]

Originally Posted by Fabian

If you see the top right of floor, its slopes left and downwards and is not level.

Once again, Fabian, you do not want any level areas in your shower floor. You want a floor that is flat and that slopes from the perimeter of the shower floor at a minimum of 1/4" per horizontal foot to the shower drain. You absolutely must achieve that for your shower to perform correctly.

Originally Posted by Fabian

I can not tear the floor out and redo,..

Of course you can, and that's just what you should do. Deck mud is one of the easiest material in the industry with which to work and one of the very few that allows you create the exact shape and thickness of mortar for a properly sloped shower floor. And it's by far the least costly. Call your first attempt practice and make another mortar bed that is correctly shaped for your shower floor. It will pay off in spades come time to tile the shower and even more come time to use the shower.

1. If you're talking about a self-leveling compound, see the first sentence of this post. You just spinning your wheels trying to make a proper shower floor from what you've got.

2. See above.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[fabian55]

CX, thanks for the reply..I really can not redo / tear this out. Firstly, it would take me a while based on my schedule and I also had to mix all 8 bags of floor mud 3 at a time / do the floor myself which is one of the reasons it dried up on me in some places..

Ideally, yes, that would be the best, what would be the second best option? Fill the left side of the floor with thinset and create the slope towards the drain?

[fabian55]

What would be a reasonable price if I tear out the floor myself, buy the materials and just have a professional put the mud and slope it correctly, nothing else, just that potion, I'm in Florida Thank you

[cx]

It would be helpful if you'd add that geographic location to your User Profile, Damien.

I have no idea what it might cost. Biggest problem would likely be finding someone who would do it.

[fabian55]

Thank you CX, yeah, might be tough finding someone for just that..ill make some calls and ill post the prices I got..

[fabian55]

Hey good day everyone. Had a bit of time to continue bathroom, coming along fine, Im finally half way..lol..I have a few minor questions and would like your opinion..

A: I will be adding the fiber tape next. When would be the best time to put the water proofing membrane strip, now before adding the redgard, I add it with a thin coat of thinset and then the redgard or I add it at the same time with the Redgard? I think its the latter..

B: If water was go to thru the tile & thinset and on to the redgard, what happens to the water if it hits a low spot and sits there, does it dry up or will it filter thru the redgard?

C: In reference to redgard, I want to avoid stepping on it while putting the tiles on the walls to unsure I don't damage it, so should I redgard everything except floor and redgard it at the end when ready to put tiles or does it need to be all done at once to ensure its completely sealed? I can maybe put a cloth on the floor to protect it.. ( I will be putting tiles from about 20" from ground up first, then floor and the bottom row last )

D: I want to put the same tiles of the wall on the floor to match, so I would have to get PEI 2 correct, which is rated for light floor traffic?

F: In reference to the floor color, my walls will be light gray, im assuming if I put the same color on the floor, a lighter color grout will get dirtier quicker as oppose to a darker flooring, but I think the darer flooring gets whitish due to soap etc, in your opinion, which one is easier to maintain



Thank You and I will finish this before the year ends...

[ss3964spd]

A: Any tape applied must be done before Redgard.

B: Water will just sit in the low spot, it won't filter thru the Redgard - unless there is a hole in it. Any accumulated water will eventually dry out, depending on how often the shower is used.

C: Yes, you'll want to stay off the Redgard to avoid damaging it. I think I'd opt for applying the RG to the floor after you've tiled the walls.

D: I believe I've read here that the PEI rating isn't used anymore, though some manufacturers still invoke it. Regardless, any tile that is rated as a floor tile should be fine.

F: Yes, a lighter grout color is more likely to appear dirty faster. But as this is a shower it won't be subject to as much dirt and grime as, say, a kitchen floor would be. I'd use whatever color you, or Mrs. Fabin, would like. IMO, natch.

[fabian55]

ss3964spd Thank you for reply, really helpful, I think I asked question # 1 incorrectly. I know fiber tape goes on now before Redgard on the cement board, I meant the Laticrete WP membrane strip, I put that after fiber tape and before redgard or add it at the same time with the redgard. If before redgard, I would need a really thin layer of thinset to hold it up correct?

[cx]

Fabian, if you're talking about the reinforcing mesh sold with the RedGard, that is embeded into the first coat of the RedGard when applied. Actually, I believe it's imbedded into a coat of RedGard all its own and before the required two coats of RedGard are applied to the walls. You want to read the manufacturer's instructions on that.

The treatment of the seams in the CBU is an entirely separate process and must be completed and cured before any part of the RedGard installation begins.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[fabian55]

Hi CX, no, im speaking of Laticrete Membrane Fabric, I've seen YT videos that it goes on with the Redgard at the same time, just want to make sure its not before, like under that Redgard

[cx]

Well, you're on your own there, Fabian. If you read the installation instructions for the Laticrete membrane, it'll tell you how to use the reinforcing fabric, but you won't even know for sure that it's compatible with the RedGard membrane. Chances are it'll work, but..........

My opinion; worth price charged.