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Old 10-30-2018, 12:56 PM   #16
cx
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Using the direct bonded waterproofing membrane of your choice you can apply that membrane directly to your CMU rough curb, Joe.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 10-31-2018, 07:58 AM   #17
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Thank you! I'm tearing the shower out tomorrow night, plumbing inspector is scheduled for Friday morning and then I'll finish gutting to the studs on Saturday.
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Old 10-31-2018, 09:07 AM   #18
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CX, I've been doing a ton of reading...I see you recommend tiling and maybe even grouting the walls before "pouring" the mud floor and "brick-building" the curb. Do I drywall down to 1" off of the concrete slab and then Kerdi, and then fill that small 1" void with the pan mud?
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Old 10-31-2018, 01:47 PM   #19
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You've read correctly, Joe. I don't even set the drain for such showers until the ceiling and walls are nearly done so's to have nothing to protect or damage until that point.

I generally set my wallboard about 1/2" above the rough floor just out of habit.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 10-31-2018, 02:05 PM   #20
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If you have an 8' ceiling, two pieces of 4' tall sheetrock, should result in 1/2-3/4" gap at the bottom. This assumes that the 1/2" ceiling board is already in, and you install the top piece first.

However it turns out, the bottom edge should be just over the top of the bottom plate of your framing. You'll have to start with the second row of tile up from the floor, then do the bottom row after the floor is in.

Nothing wrong with that approach, but protecting the floor is as simple as putting a piece of sheetrock on the floor, leaving a gap around the perimeter for the wall tile to be installed.
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Old 11-01-2018, 06:11 PM   #21
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Thanks for all of the advice! I ended up buying kerdi for the walls, 2 kerdi niches, a kerdi drain, and a kerdi corner bench. I tore out the old shower and surround tonight....
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Old 11-01-2018, 06:41 PM   #22
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The flex hose is the dryer vent. I have a roof vent, just need to have it installed and then I can get rid of the flex hose. It sure looks like I have a 2" cast iron into a fernco to 1.5" for the tub drain....

The plan now is to cut the concrete and center the drain. I'll see what the inspector says in the morning.
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Old 11-03-2018, 08:21 PM   #23
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Ok, I broke out the concrete and centered the drain, I have my new drain installed and filled/packed with gravel under/around the PVC. I have 3-4" of concrete to pour to fill in the trench I cut...do I use sand topping mix @ 5:1 ratio for this or another quickrete product?
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Old 11-03-2018, 09:13 PM   #24
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No, use their Concrete Mix, Joe. Their number 1101 springs to mind, but verify that. Hopefully the hole in your slab is not smooth on the edges, but best to apply a slurry of Portland or some thinset mortar anyway for a good bond.

You'll want to use something to block out for your drain. I recommend a short section of 4" PVC or ABS pipe. You must remove the pipe before the concrete patch completely hardens. Should be only a few hours after the pour. And for the Durock drain you'll also need to carve out a square section at the top of the concrete at that time to accommodate the square portion of the drain.

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My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 11-03-2018, 09:21 PM   #25
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Well Joe said trench we might no be talking about the sme thing. This may not apply. Concrete would be best. This may be over kill but whenever I do something like this I like to drill a couple of holes on each side of the old and slide in some rebar in. I drill deep enough so I can slide it in one side then pull it back out and slide it in the hole on the other side. So now you have one full piece spanning the distance. Does that make sense? Then mix up some Portland cement or thinset and put it on the old concrete as a bonding agent. Again maybe over kill but it gives me peice of mind
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Old 11-03-2018, 09:35 PM   #26
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Good catch, Shawn. I overlooked the trench part, even though I knew he had to move his drain.

I, too, always dowel the sides of such holes in the concrete. I don't do it your way, though. I like my dowels pretty tight fit and I'll generally drill them on each side at a slight angle (easier), make the dowels long enough to reach most of the way across a concrete void, bend them down and simply wire-tie bars from each side together where they pass across the void.

Depending on the size and shape of the patch I just do what I think necessary.

I'm also assuming here that he didn't find any post-tension cables to cut. If there is existing re-bar in the concrete, I will have tried to leave it in place while re-doing the plumbing.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 11-04-2018, 07:59 AM   #27
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Quote:
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I, too, always dowel the sides of such holes in the concrete
good to know I wasn't over thinking my patches, no one ever taught me that, it just seemed to make the most sense for reinforcement
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Old 11-04-2018, 04:07 PM   #28
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Ok guys, I didn't see this until it was too late...I used the sand topping mix to fill in the concrete...do I need to pull it all out?
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Old 11-04-2018, 04:20 PM   #29
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No post tension cables...I backfilled with gravel and then pounded sand topping mix into the trench...why am I feeling that I need to dig it all out now? Also, I'm going with Kerdi...I have everything set for the drain...
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Old 11-04-2018, 05:00 PM   #30
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Ok, dug it all out...going for some concrete ..
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