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Old 04-02-2018, 08:12 AM   #61
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For what it's worth they come in 4" too. They are indeed line level, there's a box wired to line to that contains driver. It can be laid on the drywall or attached to frame. Really versatile, I was a skeptic at first, now it's my go to instead of cans.
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Old 04-02-2018, 09:08 AM   #62
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Here's a 3" version by another manufacturer, also wet location rated:

https://www.amazon.com/Lithonia-Ligh...dp/B01N4WTWJR/

This style of light comes with a driver in a separate junction box, so you feed the junction box with a 120V branch circuit. The led portion is designed to clip to the drywall, so if you are tiling your ceiling you need to double check the allowed thickness for the clips. The advantage of the clip style is that the recessed disk portion is typically only 1/2" deep, so it can go underneath a joist, as long as there is clearance for the clips.

Also, I didn't do any research on the light parameters, when specifying LEDs I prefer a minimum CRI of 90 and a minimum R9 of 0.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 04-03-2018, 04:28 PM   #63
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Wayne - I’ve used that type too, very easy install. Very bright, too, so dimmer is key in bathroom.
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Old 04-04-2018, 10:24 AM   #64
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Not sure how I feel about those. Doesn't appear the driver box has any provision to mount it to anything, and I can't tell if the driver box is IC rated like the actual lamp is.

Leaving the box, the LV wires, and the 120 feed all lose and buried under blown in insulation makes me a little nervous for some reason.
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Old 04-04-2018, 11:16 AM   #65
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I believe Lithonia is a reputable brand. Per the installation instructions for the model I posted: "If remote driver box need to be attached, use provided keyhole fittings on the back of the box to hang it using round head screw (not included)." There's a picture showing it hanging vertically alongside a joist.

As for IC rating, when is a junction box ever not IC rated? I do think it is important that the driver for the LED be enclosed in a junction box like the Lithonia one is.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 04-04-2018, 07:18 PM   #66
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Dan - Take a look at these surface mount led lights. Mount to a standard 4” blue box but give you the low profile recessed light look.

http://www.cooperindustries.com/cont...l#product-tabs

I used one in a ceiling where I didn’t want to interfere with the dense packed attic insulation and was very satisfied with the result. I can’t locate a picture of it but I will get one the next opportunity and post it

Getting ready to replace several surface mount “boob” lights with the 4” retangular version. Should be much cleaner look.
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Old 04-05-2018, 07:31 AM   #67
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"when is a junction box ever not IC rated?"

I dunno, I'm not a lighting designer or electrical engineer. But better to ask the question to be certain I think.

I've seen those PC, and they're a good solution for certain situations. I don't have a space limitation, plenty of space above for whatever I want to install. Bright, full coverage in the shower area isn't needed. It's more about trying to find something a little different. I like small aperture recessed where I can get away with them. 2" would be ideal. And oh, make them color changing please. IC rated housings. Reasonably priced would be super also. LOL
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Old 04-05-2018, 04:39 PM   #68
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....with house elf installation service included?
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Old 04-05-2018, 04:55 PM   #69
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"....with house elf installation service included?"

Also super.

A few pictures of the finished recessed subfloor, and of the shower valve plumbing.
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Old 04-05-2018, 06:49 PM   #70
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Looks good. I see ya got your fancy wall mount terlet mounted too!
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Old 04-06-2018, 06:34 AM   #71
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"Looks good. I see ya got your fancy wall mount terlet mounted too!"

I love that thing. LOL. The most difficult aspect of installing it was culling the 2X6 stack at Depot for straight, flat, and non-cupped boards.

Am trying to sell Mrs. Dan on the virtues of the fancy no-touch flush control. So far she's having none of it.
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Old 04-06-2018, 09:27 AM   #72
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Are you going to pair that Geberit unit with a floor mount toilet or a wall mount toilet?

If wall mount, what is the detail that you used at the top of those two short studs that the Geberit frame is bolted to? The framing at the top of those short studs needs to be able to carry a significant out of plane force to the adjacent full length studs.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 04-07-2018, 09:11 AM   #73
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I appreciate your attention to detail Wayne.

It will be wall hung. The light colored framing are 2X6's, the darker are 2X4's. The 2X6 legs that the toilet carrier is bolted are notched at the back to accept the horizontal 2X4 which, runs out to each of the outboard 2X6's. It's fastened into the notches with 3.5" screws, holes predrilled. That horizontal 2X4 is then attached to the wall studs. The other horizontal 2X4 is fastened to the top of the legs and also runs out to each of the outboard 2X6's. Two studs were added, one to the immediate right of the (relocated) HAVC duct, and another to the left of the far right stud. All the studs received 90* steel plates to solidly connect them to the top and bottom plates.

All of the framing was attached using screws. The load into the wall studs is spread across all 4 of the vertical 2X6's. I reinforced the wall bottom plate into the joists with 3.5" screws. Only thing left to do is to inspect how well the top plate is affixed to the trusses above once I pull the old drywall off the ceiling.

In it's current state it seems impressively solid.
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Old 06-26-2018, 06:13 AM   #74
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USG Shower pan

I'm getting dangerously close to covering the walls, which brings up a question that I can't find the answer to.

I'll be using a custom size Durock foam pan, and their drain assembly and membrane. Does the wall board get installed first, and then the pan? Or the other way around?

Can't find it on the USG site, and they're not open for questions yet.
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Old 07-10-2018, 04:37 PM   #75
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Well, I thought I was getting dangerously closer to covering the walls.

Got all the electrical roughed in. 3 separate circuits: one 15A for all the lighting (4 sconces, 5 - 4" cans in the main space, 3 - 4" cans for the shower, one night light for the toilet area, all on separate switches/dimmers), one 20A for the receptacles, and one 20A for the floor. Yeah, that oughtta do it.

Oh, right - the floor. I'm guessing the inspector is going to want to see that wired up before the walls go up. Now I have to shift gears from hanging the walls to laying plywood, covering it with Ditra Heat or Laticrete's competing product, run the wiring, and then call in the inspection.

Speaking of Laticrete's competing product, STRATA_HEAT, does anyone have an experience with it? Any pros/cons over Ditra Heat?
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