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Old 05-19-2018, 03:03 PM   #61
MisterJJ
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Ah... I thought there was an ABS fitting that the ABS Kerdi drain went into. So no, ABS glue wouldn't work with what you have. But still make sure you get everything nice and clean and I would still hit the ABS of the Kerdi drain with some sandpaper before applying any type of sealant. Most plastics will develop a "skin" which adhesives don't stick to very well (unless it's a solvent glue). Lightly sanding that plastic makes adhesives stick much better.
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Old 05-19-2018, 03:07 PM   #62
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Good to know.

Thanks Joe!
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Old 05-26-2018, 07:52 AM   #63
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Flood test passed!

After re-thinking everything a zillion times, I came to the conclusion that the leak had to be because the plug was failing somewhere in the drainage pipe ó not between the connection of the Schluter adaptor drain and the existing clamping ring drain. So I bought a 2Ē long test ball inflatable plug (Cherne) and inserted it down the pipe past the drain area (that sucker is so long it actually rounded the corner in the horizontal portion of the drainage pipe!). Instructions said to inflate it to 45 PSI, but being slightly paranoid about wearing a hard hat and safety goggles when using this plug, I decided to inflate it to just under 40 PSI.

Test 1: Flood tested just the drain area for 10 hours. No leakage.

Test 2: Flood tested the pan for 24-hours. No leakage. Around 2Ē of water in the pan. FWIW, the inflatable plug PSI pressure dropped from 38.5 to 33 over that time period.

So, although I probably didnít have to smear Kerdi-Fix around the connection area between the Schluter adaptor drain and the existing clamping ring drain, Iím glad I did.

Lesson learned: buy, beg, or steal a long test ball inflatable plug for the flood test! Properly inflated, no water ainít getting past that plug in the pipe! If water level drops, then at least you know the leak isnít due to any plug issues.

Oh, by the way, I discovered that if you inflate the small 2" test plug to 96 PSI (well beyond the 40 PSI limit), you will hear a loud POP that can be heard throughout the house and perhaps next door. Yeah...$25 down the drain (pun not intended).
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Old 06-06-2018, 08:18 PM   #64
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Recommended sealant and grout for stone mosaic floor

My wife has chosen a mosaic stone pattern for the shower floor. Although the big-box store clerk said the stone was porcelain, I donít believe it is.

Iím assuming that you cement the mosaic stone tile to the floor first, then seal the stone, and afterwards grout the stones.

1. What sealant would you recommend.

2. Will the sealant harm the dried thinset in any way?

3. Do you need to re-seal the stones after 3-5 years?

4. Do you suggest grouting the stones immediately or after youíve tiled the rest of the shower walls? I was thinking of grouting everything at the same time once all the tile was on. My wife thinks that I should grout the floor before moving on to tiling and grouting the walls. She doesnít want to take the chance that the tile would move/crack when Iím walking on it when tiling the walls.

5. Would you choose an epoxy grout? Why not? What kind?
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Old 06-09-2018, 08:47 PM   #65
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Got 1/2 the floor dry-fitted. Never thought Iíd be using a manual tile-cutter to cut mosaic stone, but so far, itís working out fairly well. The angle grinder comes in handy for shaving areas that were too thin for the tile-cutter to slice. For the cuts needed around the drain, I think Iíll use a wet saw.
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Old 06-09-2018, 09:45 PM   #66
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Iíd suggest pulling some of the stones at each sheet edge and setting them manually to blur the lines between sheets. Theyíre visible in your photo and experience has taught me that grout wonít make them disappear.
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:33 AM   #67
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Well now that you mentioned it, I do see the lines. Didn't notice them before.

Will pull a few stones here and there before thinsetting.

Thanks Lou!
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Old 06-10-2018, 09:04 AM   #68
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1. My preference would be Miracle 511 Impregnator, or Miracle 511 Porous Plus

2. No, it won't harm the thinset but just take care to avoid applying excess sealer, and don't apply so much that it pools in the joints.

3. Depends on how often the shower gets used, what shower products are used, etc, etc.

4. I'd grout the floor after it's set / cured. Then cover it with a drop and some scrap plywood or similar to protect it from thinset / point loads / etc when you're setting the walls.

5. I wouldn't feel the need to, unless you're looking for the durability and color consistency that epoxy would offer. Myself, I'd feel confident with a cement-based grout like Permacolor Select, UltraColor FA, or similar that can span the varying joint widths you have with those stones.
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:04 AM   #69
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We usually peel off all the pebbles and place them one at a time. It takes longer but makes a better looking floor, plus there's no cutting against the walls or drain. I can see the gaps between your sheets but aren't as bad as some I've seen.
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Old 06-10-2018, 12:14 PM   #70
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Thanks for the advice Lou!

Davy--Holy Smokes! Who said you didn't need to be an artist to be a tile guy?! I bet those floors look awesome when they are done.
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Old 06-14-2018, 08:47 PM   #71
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Sealing Ceramic / Porcelain Tile

Do I have this right regarding sealing Ceramic / Porcelain tile?

- Ceramic / Porcelain tile DOES NOT need to be sealed if it is glazed.

- Ceramic / Porcelain tile DOES need to be sealed if it is unglazed.

- Donít mix penetrating (impregnable) sealant with enhanced (shiny wet look) sealant. Do one or the other.

- Avoid getting sealant anywhere you want grout to stick to.

- Itís OK to seal both the tile and grout IF you use the same product for both tile and grout.
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Old 06-15-2018, 09:50 AM   #72
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Chris, sealing is overrated and has been pushed by a lot of people that have never used it. It's designed to decrease the chance of a stain in areas where you prepare food. A kitchen backsplash, kitchen floor, places like that. It does make some tiles easier to grout, especially when the grout color contrasts the tile. The sealer isn't designed to stop water like a lot of folks think. It's not going to anyway.

The floor in the pic wasn't sealed at all. It's up to you if you want to seal your tiles and grout in your shower.
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:05 PM   #73
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HmmÖinteresting.

Your wisdom tilted my conceptions about sealing and grouting a tad bit. Makes sense though.

I am intrigued that more than a few tile guys recommend sealing a shower floor when it seems it is not absolutely necessary (for example when using ceramic / porcelain tiles).

So sealant ó at best ó keeps less water from penetrating into tile and grout.

Itís sort of like wax on a car. Waxing your car helps water bead up and dissipate faster than if you never waxed your car. Of course this analogy pertains more to a surface sealant as opposed to a penetrating sealant.

Now I have this urge to wax the tile.

I donít know, perhaps Iíll seal the tile with a penetrating seal (for all the little pot-holes here and there) and then do the grout. Perhaps not.

Could come down to a coin flip.

Thanks for the advice Davy!
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:09 PM   #74
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Hey...does sealant aid in cleaning the tile/grout in any way?

To put this another way, if one doesn't seal the tile/grout, does one grunt more when periodically cleaning the tile?
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:22 PM   #75
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The sealers for tiles are penetrating types. A little will soak into the grout and even less into the tiles. Penetrating sealers do not stop water, at least not much. But once in, the sealer will let it dry back out. A sealer will keep it from staining so easily. I can't say about making it easier to clean. Seal it if you want, it's not going to hurt anything but don't think it'll now be a bullet proof shower.
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